Push it; push it real good.

neilsphoto said:
Did I read that right? You agitate once every 5 minutes? The other day you posted another pushed Rodinal shot. What speed was that shot and developed how long and agitated how often?

I'm a Rodinal fan but I've never used it for pushing.

Neil
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Nope, you read wrong. I invert five times every five minutes.

The previous shot was at 3200, 30 minutes, same agitation.
 
This appears to be a speeded up variant of 'stand' developing. That accounts for the really excellent shadow detail in such a high iso rating. I'd heard about it as a technique but hadn't until now seen the results. Impressive!

Gene
 
Ok! You got me! I just loaded Tri-X in my G2 and set it to 1600. Let's see what I get until the weekend. I have some AM74 left which I will use 1:15 as one shot developer. There are two rolls Delta3200 left I intended to shoot at 1600 as well.
 
merciful said:
Tri-X at ISO _____? Nikkor 135mm f3.5, developed in Rodinal 1+50.

Care to take a shot at filling in the blank?
Click to expand...

Nice picture. I couldn't even guess at the rating. I haven't pushed film in 30 years -- Just decided there wasn't anything that 400 ISO wouldn't handle--and if it wouldn't, I probably didn't need to shoot it anyway.
 
GeneW said:
This appears to be a speeded up variant of 'stand' developing. That accounts for the really excellent shadow detail in such a high iso rating. I'd heard about it as a technique but hadn't until now seen the results. Impressive!

Gene
Click to expand...

Thanks, Gene. There's a very significant difference in result between the same push in Rodinal and HC-110: there's much less shadow detail with HC-110.
 
kiev4a said:
Nice picture. I couldn't even guess at the rating. I haven't pushed film in 30 years -- Just decided there wasn't anything that 400 ISO wouldn't handle--and if it wouldn't, I probably didn't need to shoot it anyway.
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Thanks very much.

I don't think there's one in a hundred exposures I could make if I had to use film rated at 400.
 
How did you scan it? Is that close to full frame? Nice.

Funny thing is, most claim you can't push much with Rodinal :)
 
djon said:
How did you scan it? Is that close to full frame? Nice.

Funny thing is, most claim you can't push much with Rodinal :)
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Thanks. Full-frame, scanned with a CoolScan 8000.
 
Hey Merciful... wonderful shot and very interesting processing results.

Yeah, what temperature? I have adored Rodinal for years. I am just diving back into photography, so have to reacclimate myself.

A "new" paradigm for developing b&w is less agitation, which is said to avoid grain clumping, and higher temps (up to 24C) to reduce wet time. I picked this up from http://www.mironchuk.com/HC-110.html and although it is written for HC-110 times, adapted it to Rodinal for APX 400 andit seemed to work well.

Cheers to you and others in Halifax.

Trius
 
Thanks very much.

I have never agitated much (with film, that is.) But I hadn't heard about the increased temperature stuff: I'll investigate.

That was at 70F.


Trius said:
Hey Merciful... wonderful shot and very interesting processing results.

Yeah, what temperature? I have adored Rodinal for years. I am just diving back into photography, so have to reacclimate myself.

A "new" paradigm for developing b&w is less agitation, which is said to avoid grain clumping, and higher temps (up to 24C) to reduce wet time. I picked this up from http://www.mironchuk.com/HC-110.html and although it is written for HC-110 times, adapted it to Rodinal for APX 400 andit seemed to work well.

Cheers to you and others in Halifax.

Trius
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Soo..
I'm lazy, and I have a Jobo and some Rodinal. Could I get similar look at this ISO via an extreme push with constant agitation? I could set it to spin slowly, but it would have to be continuous if i were to use the Jobo. Any recommendation for time? Also, I can regulate temperature so would going up/down do anything for me?

I have done lots of pushes in normal D76/Microphen but always done my standard 10sec agitation per 1minute. I have never gone to the extreme speed/time of this method.
 
Btw, I knew it was 12,800 because you mentioned you were going to do some experiments at that speed in a previous thread (the 35/1.8 one I think), for some odd reason this kind of things go straight into my mind and I can't forget them.

Some time ago we had a thread with a how a possible push with Diafine should be made (going more than once through the A&B baths), I think you could be our man for that experiment as well.
 
Oh boy, you make me run out and buy a film developing kit.

Anybody knows what's a good push-developer for tri-x available in europe?
 
Pherdinand,
I have very good experiences with Calbe A49 (diluted 1+1; now also sold as Adox ATM49) for pushing films. You can mail-order it from www.fotoimpex.de (the best source for inexpensive darkroom supplies in Europe, IMHO).
You could also order their inexpensive, yet excellent A&P developing tanks!
Roman
 
Oh, and be careful with Rodinal at temperatures higher than 20°C/68°F - in my experience, grain gets reall much worse; when originally formulated, Rodinal was intended to be used at 18°C!
And yes, it is true, Rodinal _in regular use_ is not good for pushing (that is, low dilutions, regular inversion schemes) - but things are different when using it in high dilution with minimal/no agitation (so Stephen, no, rotation won't work - and is not a good agitation scheme for Rodinal anyway - if you are lazy, try 1+100 dilution and stand developmen - just make sure there's enough developer in the soup - AGfa recommends at least 10ml per film, which would give you 1 l of mixed developer at 1+100, but you can go slightly lower around7 ml per film should still be safe).

Roman
 
Roman said:
AGfa recommends at least 10ml per film, which would give you 1 l of mixed developer at 1+100, but you can go slightly lower around7 ml per film should still be safe).

Roman
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I'm using 6.25ml + 300ml.
 
looking at your 35mm results, i can already dream about using tri-x in 120 format pushed real hard, shooting nighttime with the super ikonta and the rolleiflex...oh boy, nice days to come...

Once there was a posting here about pushing 120 tri-x (i think) to iso 102.000-ish, where the backing paper was not thick enough and the frame numbers showed up on the neg...looked really cool...was it you who has done it?:)

BTW, is the thread title a reference to that nineties rap song?:)
 
From what I heard 2nd hand a few years ago, the formula for tri-x has been changed somewhat. One indicator of this is that It doesn't work the same when using as a reversal film. i.e. b&w slides(transparancies).
 
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