Q about loading 120/220 film Q

[DNG]

Can 120/220 film be partially loaded outside a changing bag, then finished up in the bag? You know the first few blank exposures. I do this for 35mm film, I start at #3 so I can pre-load a leader 1/2 way round the reel, then finish up in the bag. (I am totally not able to do it "Blind".. age has set in). 😛

I am thinking on getting a cheap 6x6 or 645.

 

[keytarjunkie]

Huh? I don't understand why you'd do this with 35mm, but to answer your question, no, it doesn't matter. 120 and 220 have paper leaders, the film starts at the first image.

 

[MartinP]

Short answer, no.

This is just because the film is not inside a cassette like the 135 packing. Instead a backing-paper is rolled around a core with the actual film sandwiched inside, protected from the light by the paper and the reel-ends. If you unwind far enough to get at the end of the film then the whole paper/film roll will be loose and the film will be lightstruck.

Millions of people have managed to load rollfilm though, so it isn't as tricky as you might think. It is certainly a good idea to practice in daylight with a sacrificial roll.

 

[corposant]

Huh? I don't understand why you'd do this with 35mm, but to answer your question, no, it doesn't matter. 120 and 220 have paper leaders, the film starts at the first image.

Because the leader on a 35mm roll is coated film. You can get maybe 38-39 shots on a roll if you can load it inside a bag and shoot on the leader.

OP, keytarjunkie is right, unfortunately, you can't do this on 120/220. The leader has backing paper so it's protected while you load and unload in daylight. You have to load and wind precisely to the start mark on the backing paper (usually an arrow that says "Start here") and then wind it on to get proper spacing (so you don't accidentally shoot on the leader or shoot blank frames on the film).

 

[DNG]

Huh? I don't understand why you'd do this with 35mm, but to answer your question, no, it doesn't matter. 120 and 220 have paper leaders, the film starts at the first image.

Because my coordination sucks... so I leave some leader out after I rewind the film to pre-load that leader in light, and load the rest in a bag once it is set on the reel (Patterson)

 

[nikon_sam]

NO!!!
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[Archlich]

Open up a roll of 120 film as tuition fee, and you'll understand.

 

[DNG]

I know the film is has a paper cover, just did not know if the film started right away, (like a leader), or later on, as was mentioned.

And, I guess without a way to keep the film/paper from unwinding, I guess I am left with sending film out to develop....which is not in the budget..

Once a year, I can get some photo gear from a part of Tax Refund, the rest of the year, it is a Check to Check life.

 

[Terry Christian]

Imagine 120 as a roll of film that has a sufficiently long paper cover that it starts before the film and ends after the film. 220 is the same, except the paper is *only* the lead and the tail, with no paper in the middle; this allows for a thinner roll overall, since the film itself is twice as long in 220.

So the short answer to your question is no, since there is no film leader like with 35mm; your first exposure starts where the film does, thanks to the cues printed on the paper. You'll probably find 120/220 easier to load onto reels than 35mm. 120 doesn't seem that apt to spontaneously uncoil, though; I've never had that problem. Inside the bag, some people like to completely separate film from paper and then feed the film into the reel, while some separate them as the film is ratcheted on. My only difficulty is with how wide the film is, with regards to my fingers not inadvertently making dents or creases in it trying to feed the edges into the reel.

But seeing the large negative is so worth the trouble! You can do it! Good luck!

 

[nikon_sam]

If you happen to have a bad roll of 120 use it to practice loading and when you feel more confident reel a good roll and start developing...

 

[graywolf]

You might keep and eye out for an old 120 daylight loading developing tank.

A couple of brands were Agfa Rodinax 60 (from Germany) and the Kent 20 (from England), they are pretty much identical. I currently have a Kent 20 sent to me by and English friend. It needed some tinkering, the metal tabs in the spool chamber were bent; but now the film loads easily. Also it only takes 140ml of chemistry. No darkroom nor changing bag needed at all.