Rangefinder for portraits

For portraits I prefer my Fujica 690 and 670 cameras with Fujinon 100/3.5AE and Auto Up close-up attachment.

Isolated face shots with nice bokeh are possible with this rig - kind of difficult with most MF rangefinder cameras.

I usually use the 690 for the negative size and because I like environmental portraits. (Sometimes use XPan 90/4 for the same type shots on the run.)

SLR favorites are Canon FD L 85/1.2 and Nikon 135/2.0 DC.


Texsport
 
It seems, RF gives less distortion comparing to SLR. And on 50 mm primes selection is wide.
Plus, no blackout with RF, makes big difference comparing to SLR.
RF lenses seems to have more aperture blades, it makes big difference in bokeh.
Long RF base, like on latest Zeiss and Leica M gives accurate focusing at large apertures.
Some glass, like Summitar, gives good separation at F2 and crazy bokeh.

MF RF is different on how film gathers the light. It is very different from 135 film on portraits. This is where the main advantage of MF is. The rest....
To my eye where is no glass with character on MF among common cameras, lenses.
MF gives sharp images, spectacular and unbeatable light, tonality, but ...
I sold my Yashica 124G Mat and using old folders. Moskva gives better object separation at longer focal length. Also I'm not with 6x6 crowd and really prefer 6x9 for portraits.
 
The thing about rangefinders used for portraits is that it is more difficult/risky to attempt to isolate the subject from the background using a narrow area of focus... like focusing on the subject's eye with your aperture wide open and hoping the foreground and background go soft. It is very easy to introduce an error here, either through your movement or the subjects', parallax, or a mechanical factor. So most people who use rangefinders for portraiture tend to use wider angle lenses and concentrate on environmental or fuller-figure portraiture rather than coming in tight and doing classic head shot type photos.

So even though I once had a 150mm lens for my Mamiya 6 rangefinder, it was not a practical portrait lens.

I'll argue that the tight head shot with a narrow band of focus - what most people consider traditional portraiture - is best done with SLRs, either small or medium format. 35mm SLRs with fast 85mm to 135mm lenses, like the Nikon F with the classic 105/2.5. Or the Hasselblad with the 110/2 or 150, Mamiya RB-RZ with 180, etc.

The TLR Rolleiflex is sort of in-between these two camps - skilled photographers like Irving Penn and Richard Avedon achieved close, intimate, narrow depth of field portraits and also further away, more informative portraits with just their Rolleis.

Note however that they sometimes used Tele-Rolleis with the 135mm lens and close up filters ;-p

The later model Rolleiflex TLRs have a hood design that allows you to use a sport finder by folding down the panel in the top of the hood - this creates a way to use the camera at eye level with accurate focusing - it takes some practice. Many people do not like the Rollei prisms and substitute a Hasselblad prism with an adapter device.

Some people confuse the shape of the aperture with having an effect on the bokeh. It does not but if you have backlit flare you can get sunstars and ghost reflections in the shape of the aperture opening - so pentagonal and hexagonal openings usually look ugly. Unfortunately, most later Rollei and Hassle-bad lenses have sharp hexagonal openings but I guess the designers thought that professional photographers would know how to light and never intentionally introduce flare... Leica lens designers used many aperture blades because they knew their customers would shoot into the sun, whether by intent or incompetence we don't know ;-p (Actually reducing the number of blades was a cost cutting decision.)

I found through experience that if I want to shoot a backlit flare image with nice background rendering, whether or not you want to call it bokeh, or whether or not I was using a prescribed lens that was sanctified as having good bokeh... it was simple to shoot it wide open so the round opening of the lens barrel defined the shape of the aperture. In this way I could use a camera like the Fuji GW690 with its sharp as a tack 90mm and still get pleasing round orbs floating in the background and enough flare and muddy garbage to shut the bokeh queens up. This also works with cheap plastic Nikon AF-D lenses too.
 
I like the results I've gotten from shooting some head&shoulder shots with my M8+ CV 75mm F 2.5 and may get an 90mm Elmarit to let me take slightly tighter shots from the same distance. Now for tighter shots such as a head shot I'd probable use an SLR+135-200mm lens so that I could get tighter crop from the same distance rather then working closer to the subject with a shorter lens such as a 75-100mm.
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