recommend me a system, rff?

Good fast lenses come at a price, I agree 2.0 is often enough for most shooters and 1.4 will not solve real lowlight conditions. Go with higher speed film and use a 2.0 lens may be the right path. M Rokkor and Cron 40 are some of the sharpest lens out there.
 
Also, not sure how set you are against MF, but I will say that a Mamiya 7 + lens can cost less than a Leica M6 with lens. You don't get the Leica badge, and you don't get fast lenses, but you do get a camera which will completely blow it away for technical image quality. I found the moment I shot MF that although 35mm is great, if I had to choose only one, it would be MF, easy.

You could shoot 6x6 or 6x4.5 to squeeze more shots from a roll, and your V500 will do a fine job on scanning too.
 
I never had a problem with the Hexar RF accuracy. I use an MS-MAG adapter for the camera to accept leica magnifiers and use f1.4 lenses with her.

I recommend either the Hexar RF or a nice, small Contax like the 139Q that, together with the small 45/2.8 Tessar is a tiny little machine.
 
I had M7, then moved to Zeiss ZI and never looked back. For me, viewfinder and the reduced cost were the deciding factors. I didn't bother trying out Voigtlander as I thought ZI was reasonably priced and liked everything about it.
 
torn said:
bought the c-sonnar 50/1.5 :D
now deciding between an RF and R3A
seems like lots of people dont like the RF since you're SOL if it breaks
the R3A because it is apparantly bad build quality?
ZI is a bit pricey and god awful ugly i think thats what is really preventing me from taking it seriously
Click to expand...

That's a great start! Wonderful lens.

Don't fret the R3a. It's a wonderful camera and not as flimsy as you'd think reading about it on the net.

However, no denying that it does not feel as nice as a Leica in hand. I would not rule out the M6. AE can be useful, but when I had an R2a I mainly used it in M mode.

Based on what you said in the first post, I think you might have a misconception of how to use the M6. You should not be turning the shutter dial before taking a shot, thus introducing one more step before capturing the picture. The preferred approach, would be to have the shutter and aperture combo set for whatever the meter tells you is appropriate. If mixed lighting is present, measure the bright area and measure the darker area. Keep the shutter speed the same and note how many aperture clicks there are between the two settings, then just shoot to your heart's content alternating between the two aperture settings as appropriate. It beats having the AE tricked by a table lamp, flood light, window or whatever else.
 
japanexposures provides repair service for the Hexar RF.
I had mine fixed in Vienna, but just some small stuff inside the VF was in need of a replacement.
 
Is 725 for this ZI a good deal? one of my concerns with it is if i decide to get rid of it, reselling an ugly looking camera is harder
it also has the frameline popping issue(?)
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1134526/0?keyword=zeiss,ikon#10830386

as for the ZI in general, that thread "issues with your ZI" didnt help. made it sound like a cheaply made camera; one tiny bump and its out of alignment, the leatherette falling off, framelines popping , etc etc.
 
The Zi is a great camera. I used one for over a year without problems. Threads like the one you mention that only list issues and not satisfied users give the wrong impression.
 
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