Recommended custom settings for EP1?

[Yashi]

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Hello RFF, to make a long story short, I purchased a Olympus E-P1 a couple weeks ago. Great machine. My other Olys like the 2 RC, the SP, the RD and the XA are a bit jealous but I promised not to forget them.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]The EP-1. Fun to use + great picture quality. I have the 17mm pancake and the VF and want to use this gorgeous setup mainly for street photography in aperture mode. And here comes the point. How to program the little Pen. I read the manual for quite a while but ....[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]The idea is, with the help of this great forum, to program the E-P1 and have a [/FONT]simplistic camera to operate with .[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]. What I want is a camera that allows me to concentrate on taking pictures and nothing else. It would be nice if the next firmware revision for EP1 will get a lock-everything-except-the-shutter- release setting. [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Here is what I change to make the EP-1 a streetshooter....[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Program the fn Button for "Display off". I like a display to be OFF and only turn on when I want. Also this will give you longer battery life and more shots over the day. Also a dark display is nice once you work with the VF on the hotshoe. (Press play and check pictures from time to time)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Set AF to the middle point. This will allow faster shooting as the camera will not refocus all the time.[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Aperture on the big thump wheel, other wheel NO function ![/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Iso adjustment to 200 ( because quality is said to be better on 200 as on 100 on the E-P1)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]setting Gradation to "Normal"(off), cause it adds noise.[/FONT][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Most of the time I will use F5.6 as my F Stop for Streetphotography[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Ok. Here is what I do....(this settings are for a point and shoot style with the PEN and the use of AF lenses !!!!)[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]turn camera on[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]the very first step should be to update the camera firmware. This will give you faster AF. The camera firmware I use is currently 1.4[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif](...search for [/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]PEN[/FONT][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]firmware update......)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Once you have done the update turn your camera back on[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]press “MENU” button → scroll down, where you set the GENERAL SETTINGS like time,date, language → check your new firmware → an set MENU DISPLAY to ON as it will give you access to the advanced menu. [/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]now start on top “CARD SETUP” → format → yes[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]next “CUSTOM RESET” → reset → yes[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif](Now the camera is as programmed by Olympus)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next is “PICTURE MODE”.... as I understand they are pre programmed by Olympus and you have the oportunity to modify sharpness, contrast etc in each mode. Here I am lost and need some contribution from you. What “fine adjustments” do you use for vivid, natural, muted, portrait and monoton ???? Tip: Once you are in “monotone” you can simulate the effect of “B&W Filter”.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Back from picture mode, next is “GRADITION”. As said above you should use “normal” (off) here[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next you set the quality of your images → “Still Picture” I use LF for jpgs. If you like RAW do settings for RAW.[/FONT]
• “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]IMAGE ASPECT” I stick with 4:3[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next menu...[/FONT]
• “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]MOVIE AE MODE” I stick with P[/FONT]
• “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]MOVIE+ STILL” I stick with OFF[/FONT]
• “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]SINGLE OR CONTINOUS SHOOTING” as you like.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]For the “IMAGE STABILIZER” I change to “I.S. 1”[/FONT]
• “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]MULTIPLE EXPOSURE” stays OFF[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next menu...[/FONT]
• …[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]..nothing to change here, as I understand.[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next menu...[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]here it becomes interesting again. We are now in the advanced menu and again I would ask you to contribute with your experience in this section[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]First “AF/MF” [/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AF MODE → STILL PICTURE → I guess as long as you use a AF lens S-AF is the right setting. Because the camera is not constantly refocusing. C-AF could be an option if your object is moving. MF for legacy lenses[/FONT] → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AF AREA → AF to the middle point in my case[/FONT] → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]SPIRAL / LOOP / OFF (I do not know, but SPIRAL seems fine)[/FONT] → “[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]RESET LENS” → ON should be fine as focus on your lens will go to infinity once you turn off the camera(is it also OK, once you use adapter?)[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]BULB FOCUSING → I turn this OFF, as I do not change Focus during long time exposures[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]FOCUS RING → as you like[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]MF ASSIST → I change to OFF, as I do not need MF with AF lenses. But must turn ON once usig legacy lenses[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next BUTTON/DIAL[/FONT] → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]DIAL FUNCTION → A → Thump wheel Fno., Round wheel “Flash +-” because the round wheel is sensible on the E-P1 and I do not want to accidentally change anything here during shooting[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]DIAL DIRECTION → as you like[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AEL/AFL → I do not change anything here, should I ?[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AEL/AFL MEMO → OFF (you can turn this ON, if light conditions do not change)[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]FN FUNCTION → I switch to BACKLIT LCD[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]MY MODE SETUP → TURN IT ON !!!!!I will come back here later[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]BUTTON TIMER → 8SEC is fine for me[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AEL/AFL ↔ FN → OFF[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]DIRECTIONAL BUTTONS → I turn them OFF, as they confuse me in my workflow. Also I do not want accidentally change anything during shooting. - Tip: for ISO adjusting just go into the advanced menu screen.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next RELEASE ( I do not change anything here)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]- Next DISP/ /PC[/FONT]
• → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]looks all fine to me.. The only thing I change is in the INFOO SETTINGS. LV-INFO I turn everything of except ZOOM and IMAGE ONLY. Thi will allow my faster use in combination with legacy lenses.[/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next EXP/ / ISO[/FONT]

• • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]EV STEP → I change to 1 EV[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]and ISO STEP to 1EV[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]AUTO ISO SET → HIGH LIMIT 1600, DEFAULT 200[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]- ANTI SHOCK stays OFF[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]The rest is fine. Brackering could be interesting for HDRs[/FONT]

• • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next CUSTOM → FLASH MODE[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]all is fine. Remember when you are using ext. flash, as I do, the sync time is 1/180 sec, as I understand.[/FONT]

• • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next COLOR/WB[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]NOISE REDUTION → I leave this on AUTO and it will activate only for long time exposures.[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]NOISE FILTER → I turn this OFF. What do you think ?[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]WB → Guess AUTO is OK. Will adjust to other settings depending on location[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]SHADING COMP. Not necessary as long as your lens will not vignette to much.[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]SET → I change my highest jpg resolution to (L)arge and (SF) Superfine[/FONT]
  • → [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]PIXEL COUNT. OK for me.[/FONT]

• • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next RECORD/ERASE → no changes from my side[/FONT]

• • [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Next UTILITY → no changes from my side. Exposure shift I do manually with the button on the top plate if necessary[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]ONCE ALL THE SETTINGS ARE DONE go back to the advanced menu BUTTON DIAL → scroll down to MY MODE SETUP save the settings on MY MODE 1. I am not that sure if these mode can only activate with pressing buttons again.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Wow, what a menu !? I wonder if anybody is still with me. Life was good back in the film days, wasn´t it ? Please commend , advise or give us a recommendation on how you program your EP-1. I am sure a lot of members here, me included, will appreciate ….[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Thanks.[/FONT]

 

[M4streetshooter]

ok...to make it a real Streetshooter..add this...
set the Lens Reset to NO
set the AEL/AF button to AF only

now...you can set a predetermined focus distance, preferably the hyper-focal distance
do this by hitting the AF/AEL button to lock focus...

this distance will stay until you hit the button to refocus....
the lens will stay at the focused distance even if the camera powers off and on...even a 100 xs...

so now you have a camera that is pre-focused and will stay there until you need to refocus...
if you use the 17 and the finder...
set the AF target point down 1 click... it is now in the center of the finder and at the same time the center of the screen... use single point AF

so now your working at you Hyper-focal distance and then all the sudden...
WOW this is an amazing image but it's tooooo close or something...so,
don't panic....
look thru the finder, frame and hit the AF/AEL button to lock focus....that's it...your image is focused.... breath now and get ready for the next image....

you didn't forget to refocus to hyper focal did you... remember, the lens stays focused until you re focus....

keep the fn button for LCD...and always have an extra battery...the Oly's have, well power management is a small weakness....

that there should get you working...
oh, I forgot... don't be afraid of Auto ISO...it actually can save yer butt in a pinch...

 

[Yashi]

Wow !! Thank You ! I find some good advise in your post.

What is the secret behind the picture modes ...vivid, natural, muted, portrait and monoton

Does anybody "tweak" those, or do you all tweak in post processing ?

Do you guys shoot RAW or are you happy with the highest jpg res. ?

Do you use the Adobe RGB color space option, or stick with sRGB ?

Thanks.

 

[shadowfox]

I rate this thread as excellent because this is the type of things that street photographers ought to be sharing and discussing about, rather than bags, straps, or bokeh characteristics 😛

Btw, this is the digital side of me talking. 😀

 

[M4streetshooter]

Yashi,
I'm posting my response to your PM here....

Yashi... First thanks for that. As I understand you use this setting to reduce shutter lag to a minimum. What I do not understand is how to set the hyper focal distance right. Lets say I shoot with F5.6 or F8.0 all the time. Where do I set my (pre)focus, so I know evrything becomes sharp from distance x to infinity. I know how this works on my manual lenses because hfd is written on the lensbarrel. But for the Oly17mm or the Pana20mm how do you know ?

Get the DOF Master program for your computer and iPhone, (you do have an iPhone, all street shooters have to have an iPhone)
in this program you'll see the different hyperfocal settings for any given lens/fstop.

Find a wall...extend your arm up the wall and mark where your finger tips touch. This gives you a preset height. Now, measure the height from the floor to your mark on the wall. You can now figure distances to focus at by where you hold the camera on your body and focus on the ground...

example... I am 6'1" tall... if I hold the camera at eye level and point down to the ground I am focused at 5.6', this is the Hyperfocal distance for my 17mm at f11.
I'm now good from 2.8' to the moon....

Yashi... Also, do you also prefer Adobe RGB over sRGB (as I read Adobe has a wider colour range) ?

I use sRGB because it translated better in LR. Many use adobe but it's a waste of space if you can's get 64 bits....

Yashi...
Do you adjust the picture modes vivid, natural, muted (or tweak sharpness etc in post processing) ?

I don't use picture modes because I do raw only. Yes I apply sharpening in PP as needed....

Yashi... Do you turn SHADING COMPANSATION or NOISE FILTER on ?

No, it's all off as I do raw...

Thanks Yashi
Thanks Don

 

[Yashi]

DOF Master is the thing I was looking for. Awesome !

May swap back to sRGB, too.

Again, some very good advise ! Thx.

 

[M4streetshooter]

Yashi... if you get DOF Master and don't see your camera listed...then...
use .015 as the setting you'll see it in the COC part...Circle Of Confusion not Confederation Of Clubs...
don