Whateverist
Well-known
My IIIa is in decent condition, save for the vulcanite cover. It's got a hairline crack on one side, a thumbnail-size chunk missing on the other, and a discolored half-inch strip all along the back near the bottom plate.
What are the options here? Am I best off leaving it in its original condition, or can damage to the outer cover have other damaging effects? Can the cover be repaired, or can the material be replaced?
What are the options here? Am I best off leaving it in its original condition, or can damage to the outer cover have other damaging effects? Can the cover be repaired, or can the material be replaced?
Travis L.
Registered Userino
Replacing it is pretty straight forward. I've recovered several of my M's.
I really like the choices from Aki Asahi, and their service is quick and reliable.
http://http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/html/IIIa/IIIa.php
I really like the choices from Aki Asahi, and their service is quick and reliable.
http://http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/html/IIIa/IIIa.php
BlackXList
Well-known
Another vote for Aki Asahi, I've ordered a number of things from them, and the only time I've had a problem it was entirely my fault for not paying attention properly.
The products fit great, look great, wear exceedingly well, to the point that if they provide a skin for a camera I own, I'll get one.
The products fit great, look great, wear exceedingly well, to the point that if they provide a skin for a camera I own, I'll get one.
Jerzyw
Member
I have positive experience with both Aki and Cameralether. Well, timing, as mentioned above could be a problem for both, on the other side I received replacement from Cameralether within one week as well (I am living in Europe).
Existing Vulkanit may be repaired as well, reglued. If someone is interested to do so, some hints, however in German, are on theLeica Forum. Link to the document I within one of my posts on RFF.
Existing Vulkanit may be repaired as well, reglued. If someone is interested to do so, some hints, however in German, are on theLeica Forum. Link to the document I within one of my posts on RFF.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I have similar experiences with Aki-Asahi and Camera Leather, both are pretty fast with shipping the skins. Though with Camera leather it really depends on if they have it in stock or not. I've heard some horror stories about them.
I've replaced the vulcanite on 3 of my Leica's with Aki-Asahi skins after the vulcanite was too far gone. Here's the latest one I did last month. It already had some glued-on replacement skin on it that needed to be removed with a hot air gun and cleaning alcohol.
CRR Luton did true Vulcanite replacement, but they were pretty busy when I last checked them out.
I've replaced the vulcanite on 3 of my Leica's with Aki-Asahi skins after the vulcanite was too far gone. Here's the latest one I did last month. It already had some glued-on replacement skin on it that needed to be removed with a hot air gun and cleaning alcohol.
CRR Luton did true Vulcanite replacement, but they were pretty busy when I last checked them out.
Whateverist
Well-known
I'm looking at aki-asahi now. Two questions:
- What's the difference between #4008, #4040 and #4044? I can't seem to find it on the site.
- How difficult is the replacement?
Cameraleather's Leica LTM page throws a 404.
- What's the difference between #4008, #4040 and #4044? I can't seem to find it on the site.
- How difficult is the replacement?
Cameraleather's Leica LTM page throws a 404.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
#4040 is very similar to original screw-mount vulcanite.
#4008 is closer to IIIg and M-camera skin texture.
#4044 has a shallower and smoother texture
Samples of all Aki-Asahi skins
#4008 is closer to IIIg and M-camera skin texture.
#4044 has a shallower and smoother texture
Samples of all Aki-Asahi skins
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Applying it is pretty simple, the skins are self-adhesive and they do allow to be pulled off again for a correction or two.
I believe they suggest using a liquid (soap?) when applying, but I've never needed to.
No need to disassemble the camera either. But getting the skin under the slow speed dial can be tricky. I use a watchmakers screwdriver to push the skin under the rim.
I start with putting the skin on at one of the strap lugs, go straight across the back. Making sure the skin goes straight over the other strap lug. And then I fold both ends over the front while making sure the body screws line up with the holes in the skin. And then I cut off the surplus material where the ends meet under the lens mount
I believe they suggest using a liquid (soap?) when applying, but I've never needed to.
No need to disassemble the camera either. But getting the skin under the slow speed dial can be tricky. I use a watchmakers screwdriver to push the skin under the rim.
I start with putting the skin on at one of the strap lugs, go straight across the back. Making sure the skin goes straight over the other strap lug. And then I fold both ends over the front while making sure the body screws line up with the holes in the skin. And then I cut off the surplus material where the ends meet under the lens mount
Whateverist
Well-known
Thanks! I placed an order for the #4040.
Whateverist
Well-known
Covering arrived today. Now to work up the courage to actually apply it 
Are there any good tips for the procedure, apart from what's on the website?
Are there any good tips for the procedure, apart from what's on the website?
lxmike
M2 fan.
Let me begin by saying although not 'ham fisted' I am definitely not a repair expert but even I managed to change the vulcanite on two of my previous Leitz beauties, (M2 and IIIa), l found slight warming the old vulcanite up made it easier to get it off both cameras and then a gentle wipe down to remove any 'old' glue residue. Both times l used covering from Cameraleather, their products and service were great. Good luck with your en devours, let us know how you get on
nobbylon
Veteran
I've replaced a number of M covers. Remove the old cover by heating with a hair drier and then a sharp blade. If it doesnt come off easily then it's not hot enough.
Clean off the old glue residue using cotton buds soaked with acetone, not wet enough to run but enough to soak into the glue. Keep dabbing on until the glue spots are saturated and it then comes off easily.
when replacing the cover I remove the backing and paint on some alcohol available at a chemist. This allows just enough time to position the cover before it evaporates and the cover sticks.
Clean off the old glue residue using cotton buds soaked with acetone, not wet enough to run but enough to soak into the glue. Keep dabbing on until the glue spots are saturated and it then comes off easily.
when replacing the cover I remove the backing and paint on some alcohol available at a chemist. This allows just enough time to position the cover before it evaporates and the cover sticks.