Rodinal 1:100

P. Lynn,

You may want to add a bit more Rodinal. Use the same 1:100 dilution, but increase the total to something like 600ml-800ml. The underdevelopment may be exhausted Rodinal.
 
Michael,

I have done several rolls of both Gold 100 and 200 with good success. In fact, color negative film developed in Rodinal 1:100 is very nice indeed. Very fine grained with good tonal range. And it prints just as well as it scans. I do not have any Kodak Gold scanned and on-line, but here are a few from a roll of Agfa HDC Plus 100 which are equally good as Gold 100...

Jug | Sydney, Australia 2008
2008_11_005_020crop_700.jpg

Yashica Lynx 14 | Agfa HDC Plus 100 | Rodinal 1:100 Stand

Framed | Sydney, Australia 2008
2008_11_005_036_700.jpg

Yashica Lynx 14 | Agfa HDC Plus 100 | Rodinal 1:100 Stand

Stop the press... I found a Kodak Gold 100!

Waiting | Sydney, Australia 2008
2008_10_018_011_800.jpg

Asahi Pentax Spotmatic ES | Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0 | Kodak Gold 100 | Rodinal 1:100 Stand

Both films were expired by a year or so.

Wayne,

The next roll of Tri-X that I push to 25,600 will be developed 750ml of developer and I am making serious modifications to my agitation method and cycle. I plan to do a roll tonight if I have the time...
 
P. Lynn,

Thank you. I have one more question (while my negatives dry). When I tried the Gold 100, I fixed them in fresh fixer for 3 minutes. Was that long enough, because they look rather dense, or is that normal? (The initial blank frame on the roll is not as clear as if I had processed them the regular c41 way. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong.)

BTW - your pictures look great.
 
Michael,

The negative will look very dense since the film base of C-41 film usually has an orange or brown mask color to it.

Here is a raw scan of the Gold 100 negative...

2008_10_018_011raw.jpg


This straight off the scanner before any exposure adjustment or inversion to positive has happened.

I have found that rinsing your negatives is really important since C-41 film has lots of dye layers and anti-halation dyes and when stand processing for 60 minutes these dyes seem to stain the film base. I rinse my negatives thoroughly and then drop them in a white bucket, 5 litre ice cream bucket works perfect, and you can see the dyes bleeding out of the film. I usually let my negatives soak for 20 to 30 minutes during which I occasionally stir the water. This helps clear the negatives.

I also pre-wash and pre-rinse my negative until the rinse comes out of the tank clear before dumping the developer...

Hope that helps.
 
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Well...

Here is the latest result from the 'Tri-X EI 25,600 Project'

Sums | Sydney, Australia
2008_11_008_009_700e.jpg

Norita 66 | Meyer Optik Orestegor 300mm f4.0 | Tri-X EI 25,600 | Rodinal 1:100 Stand

Exposure - 1/500 sec at f4.0 - Hand-held

There is still a hint of uneven development along the bottom of the photograph and the negatives could use a bit more time in the developer... seems 210 minutes is not quite enough.

Here is what I did...

I use a Jobo 1520 tank... so some of the steps may make more sense if you know this.

Position reel of film on the tank center tube so it is in the middle of the tank...

Pre-wash film until rinse dumps from tank clear and without any stain or dyes...

Mix 8ml of Rodinal with 800ml of room temperature water...

Fill tank completely to the top, full and running over...

Put on lid with center portion raised...

Thump tank heartily 5 times to ensure all air bubbles are removed...

Push center of lid down until developer starts to leak from under lid to ensure there is no air in the tank...

Invert slowly 10 times...

Thump to dislodge any possible air bubbles...

Tape around the lid of the tank to ensure it will not leak, black electrical tape works perfect...

Every 30 minutes turn tank upside down and thump to dislodge any possible air bubbles...

So tank spends 30 minutes right side up and 30 minutes upside down...

Do not swirl, agitate, or do a full inversion, this help ensure even development...

Dump developer at 210 minutes...

Water bath, stop, and rinse.
 
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I finally got around to developing the roll of expired Pan-F that I shot to try in Rodinal. This was dev'd in Rodinal 1+200 (2.5ml Rodinal plus 500ml tap water) for one hour with 15 seconds of gentle swirling at the 30-minute point. Very pleased with this. These are straight scans with no adjustments apart from a little dust removal.

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The third shot is a bit silly - under the bonnet of the car when I was doing some work on it. But the tones are just gorgeous!

3083942660_abbb182095_o.jpg
 
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Chris,

Splendid! I have about 100' of recently expired PanF+ myself. What E.I. did you use? Did you do anything special in the way of metering? The photos of the colonade is exactly what I'm looking for with respect to tonality. The shadows are so open. Help a brother out!

EDIT:

In my previous attempt, I mixed 8ml of Rodinal per 800ml of water for 1:100 with a single roll of 120 Pan F+. I think I shall be brave and try 4ml of rodinal per 800ml of water and a single roll of 35mm Pan F+. On second thought, 2.5/500 will work with 35mm film.
 
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Hi Wayne

This roll of Pan-F was exposed in an OM2 with the meter set at 50 iso, using the automatic exposure (aperture priority) metering. (I know I should use the M4 for these tests but it is loaded with HP5, and I have a couple of OM2s which are perfect for these quick tests.) Lens was the OM 50/1.4. Considering the columns were in full sun and the floor and wall in deep shadow, I was pretty pleased with the detail. And of course the scanner is a digital device and doesn't pick up all the detail available in the negatives. In the second shot I love the glow on the low wall from each little pool of sunlight.
 
benlees said:
ChrisN: Don't mean to interrupt but as a former turbo enthusiast what sort of car is that?
Click to expand...

1992 Nissan Patrol 4wd, 4.2 litre diesel with turbo and intercooler added. It takes me to all sorts of interesting places, but unfortunately does not get out very often.
 
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Thanks! Very nice. I bet it makes some great noises! There is a shop in town that imports JDM vehicles- quite a few hiluxs, but no Nissan 4x4. The Hilux has sounds all its own.
 
This might be a bit of a dumb question, but does rodinal 1:100 stand developing work in small single 135 reel tanks (300mL)? I've had 4 cracks at it following P Lynn Miller's method and only one showed visible (but unusable) developing. I sort of cheated on the 4th - tipped in 30mL of ID11 as an afterthought and got usable (but weird) results. It looks fogged...
 
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silvalis said:
This might be a bit of a dumb question, but does rodinal 1:100 stand developing work in small single 135 reel tanks (300mL)? I've had 4 cracks at it following P Lynn Miller's method and only one showed visible (but unusable) developing. I sort of cheated on the 4th - tipped in 30mL of ID11 as an afterthought and got usable (but weird) results. It looks fogged...
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I've run a couple of 135 films and all turned out great but I've always used 4+400 (I have an AP tank that needs 325ml for one 135 film and I use 400 to be on the safe side with the active developer)

This is Fomapan200 120
 

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Well done!

Well done!

alinCiortea said:
I've run a couple of 135 films and all turned out great but I've always used 4+400 (I have an AP tank that needs 325ml for one 135 film and I use 400 to be on the safe side with the active developer)

This is Fomapan200 120

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Click to expand...

Well done indeed!

I have 100 4x5 sheets of Fomapan 200 in my fridge. I am really looking forward to using this film. It looks like I need to buy some more Rodinal as well. Fomapan 200 and Rodinal look like a winner. Mind if I ask what E.I. you used? Many users report that the Fomapan 200 is a lot closer to a real 100 film. What do you think?
 
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