Rodinal 1:100

5 months later, I should probably show my results from souping the IE 1600 and IE 400 TRI-X rolls in Rodinal 1+100 at the same time. First roll was at 1600, second was at 400. The 400 roll came out overdeveloped and very contrasty, but overall pretty nice. Can't remember the time I used (it's written on the neg sleeve though) but it was about 1 hour to 90 minutes.

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mmabale said:
The total amount of developer in the tank was 3ml/roll, so maybe that ratio is more important.(???)
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I have developed close to 200 rolls of film by stand-development in Rodinal. And I no longer use a dilution ratio but a ml/roll formula.

Your 3ml is exactly what I use in the summer, but I have upped the formula to 3.5ml per roll since the weather has cooled down.

So...

135mm - 3 to 3.5ml per roll

120 - 4ml per roll

220 - 8ml per roll

That is my current dilution rates for stand-development.

I have also found the you reduce the risk of uneven development is you use a tank that will allow you keep the reels centered. So one reel in the middle of a Jobo 1520, and etc.

Just the other day I souped 5 rolls of 135 in one of those Jobo extendable tanks in 1900ml of developer with 9ml of Rodinal(yes, I know that is 1:100) with an empty reel on the bottom and empty reel on top so the five reels were centered. In the tank was 1 roll of Hp5+, Efke KB400, and 3 rolls of Tri-X, all pushed to 1600, I left them in the tank for 90 minutes with a swirl at 45 minutes. No sign of uneven development that I could find.

mmabale said:
2 rolls of Acros 100 @100
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Good to see someone has had success with Fuji emulsions, I have never been happy with any Fuji film I have stand-developed. Stand-development while it sounds simple and fool-proof and for the most, can be temperamental at times.
 
capitalK said:
5 months later, I should probably show my results from souping the IE 1600 and IE 400 TRI-X rolls in Rodinal 1+100 at the same time. First roll was at 1600, second was at 400. The 400 roll came out overdeveloped and very contrasty, but overall pretty nice. Can't remember the time I used (it's written on the neg sleeve though) but it was about 1 hour to 90 minutes.
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There have been times that I have pushed a roll of Tri-X to 1600 half-way through the roll... 75 minutes in the tank with 3ml of Rodinal and no interim swirl or movement will give you the best of both worlds. This will prevent over-development and losing the high-lights in the '400' frames, but still allow the shadow detail to be lifted in the '1600' frames. Essentially, it is the same as rating the whole film at 800 which is only a stop on both side of ideal exposure, which is well within the latitude of Tri-X.
 
I've tried the 2 hours semi-stand trick with tri-x at 6400... there's barely anything on the negatives. Some shots on the same roll were at 3200 and some even more, those are a bit better, though.
Also, it seems the contrast is tremendously increased with this method.

Thanks anyway. I will try with slower films and normal stand development, i have some efke 25 in 120 that i definitely want to try this way.
 
P. Lynn Miller said:
Good to see someone has had success with Fuji emulsions, I have never been happy with any Fuji film I have stand-developed.
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Thanks P. Lynn Miller!

Here's my second batch with faster Fuji film:
Fuji Neopan 1600 @1600
4 rolls in 4 roll tank
Rodinal 2.5ml/roll (approximately 1:100 dilution to fill the tank)
1 min gentle inversions, 59 min stand, water stop, fix, wash

I decided to lessen the amount of Rodinal from 3ml to 2.5ml/roll since I loaded all four rolls and I shot at speed. My totally unscientific reasoning for this is that the percentage of unused developer for one roll might act against another roll in the same tank and compensate for that .5ml difference. All look evenly developed (whew!) and it doesn't look like any of them suffered from developer exhaustion.

Here are a couple examples taken with my M3 + Canon 50mm/1.2







Didn't do so well with high contrast, though.
But that's totally my fault for only having Neopan 1600 in my bag on a bright sunny day.

M3 + CV 35mm/2.8 + yellow filter, shot at f22 1/1000

 
So, as promised, more this morning. All shot with Leica M5, M-Hex 50mm/f1.2 on Fomapan 100, developed in Rodinal 1:100 stand.

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Stone at the Jewish cemetary in the town where I live.
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Roofs on three separate houses, built ounder architecture in the 1930s. A lot of houses in Holland are interconnected, these are particularly nice and still have their original roofing.

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Same three houses, different angle of view. Someday I might make an effort to show the whole block using a wide angle.

I'm going online this afternoon to stock up on Fomapan, Tri-X or Efke, I really like what these films deliver in stand development.
 
Question to P.Lynn Miller - if I have Jobo tank for two reels (135 film) with capacity cca. 500 ml, could I develop two negatives (tri-x rated 400) together according to your diluting advice - 6 ml of Rodinal (3ml per negative) + 500 ml water (stand development as you use - 1min slow inversion and 59 minutes do not touch) or will be developer "too concentrated" at 1:84? Is it better to do just one negative in 3 ml of Rodinal (or 3,5 ml) with 500 ml of water? Thank you very much.
Janek
 
I'm skeptical about diluting Rodinal too much. I've tried several rolls at the recommended times with 1/50 and 1/100 on several different films (rollei IR, Ilford PanF Plus, Agfa 100, agfa scala, delta 400 pro...) Several rolls have come out significantly underdeveloped. For now, I'm sticking to the more concentrated solutions, 1/25 and 1/50 with longer developing time. The Agfa and ilford PanF plus seem to work best for me.
 
perhaps it wasn't the dilution? 🙂

in my case, the only two films that 'didn't make it right' in rodinal 1+100 stand development were fuji neopan 1600 @3200 and rollei retro 400 @1600 (the first turned out like an ISO ~1000, while the latter about 800).
 
Praxis: I just developed 2 rolls of TX and 2 rolls of TMY-2 in Rodinal 1:100, 19 min @ 20C today. All is well, the only "bad" negs are due to exposure issues or very flat lighting. This in tap water in a different city and country than "home", where I use filtered water from my dehumidifier.
 
One more time...........

One more time...........

The condensed version.

1 roll 36 exp. Plus-X accidentally (OK, stupidly) exposed with the meter dialed to 400.

1 roll 36 exp. Delta 100 with the meter dialed to 100.

I can easily maintain 68 degrees F for the duration. The tank sitting in a dishpan at 68F.

Can I put both rolls of film in the same tank?

I have a Paterson System 4 tank that will hold 2 35mm reels or a Jobo 2553 tank that will hold 5 35mm reels. I gather from reading that 4 reels (2 loaded, 2 empty) in the Jobo is the preferred method.

3.5ml per roll of film plus enough water in the Jobo 2553 to cover the film AND the empty reel on top?

Agitation? Swirling? Time?

Earl:

Would you just toss the film in rodinal 1:100 and agitate normally for 19-20 minutes? For continuous agitation, any clue how long? 15 minutes? 10 minutes?

Thanks for all of your help.

Wayne
 
I did a 1-hour stand with NeoPan 1600 and left the house without swirling at 30 minutes. I was afraid I'd come back to uneven negs from the developer settling but to my eye they turned out fine.
 
Wayne: with PX underexposed that much I wouldn't try it -- I would be inclined to try the PX @ 1:25 or 1:50.B. 1:25 might build too much contrast, I dunno. Maybe 1:50 for ~19 minutes?

Constant agitation is "against my religion" -- go find a different (heretical) priest! 😀
 
But it's so easy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think I need to be Un-Lazy and develop each roll by itself.
 
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I'm going to use P Lynn Millers technique for Rodinal stand development using 35mm Plus X but eventually I want to develop either 5 or 8 rolls at a time.

Using the Paterson Super System tanks which come in 5 and 8 roll capacities, can I load the tanks fully or do I need to load an empty reel at both the bottom and top (effectively reducing the tanks to 3 and 5 reels) respectively to assure more even development?
 
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