Netsoft2k
Well-known
Thank you Adam. I cleaned the lens last night (it was dirty) but still the same issue. I tried to adjust the PMT pots because with White Balance off (switch 6 on), the scans at aperture 1 and 2 were very magenta. I tried to increase green but it seemed to have little impact on the color.
What's interesting is that there is no magenta cast at aperture 4 so it is possible that this is due to light tube not perfectly aligning which impacts the smaller aperture more. Will open up the side covers and try to adjust and report back soon.
Otherwise, the scans are sharp and full of range which I am very happy about.
Adam Long
Newbie
Sounds good. I do find I get very red shadows with Velvia 100 in particular. Acceptably fixed in post by pulling the black point in on the red channel, but I think it is a known issue with these scanners.
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Adam - you were right on point. It was the light tube that was not adjusted properly.
I adjusted it and scans immediately came to life at aperture 1 and 2. Though I don't think this is perfect, I am going to leave the scanner as is because it is so close to my 11K which passes all tests/calibration. What's weird is that calibration still fails on the 5K and I think it is due to PMT gain settings (need to get more comfortable before I change these).
I made scans with both and they look near identical. Left is 5K and Right is 11K. Very happy with the results. SM11K looks "cleaner" at full resolution especially where the film coding is.
Another question, do you know how to run both scanners on a single SCSI port? Right now, I have to disconnect the cable for switching between the two and it's a bit tedious due to length of the cable (1 ft).
I adjusted it and scans immediately came to life at aperture 1 and 2. Though I don't think this is perfect, I am going to leave the scanner as is because it is so close to my 11K which passes all tests/calibration. What's weird is that calibration still fails on the 5K and I think it is due to PMT gain settings (need to get more comfortable before I change these).
I made scans with both and they look near identical. Left is 5K and Right is 11K. Very happy with the results. SM11K looks "cleaner" at full resolution especially where the film coding is.
Another question, do you know how to run both scanners on a single SCSI port? Right now, I have to disconnect the cable for switching between the two and it's a bit tedious due to length of the cable (1 ft).
Adam Long
Newbie
Looks good, be interested to see some detailed comparisons.
I haven't tried running both at once yet but the manual suggests it should be okay, just choose the scanner in the Connections window. I've got a cable in the post so will let you know how I get on.
I haven't tried running both at once yet but the manual suggests it should be okay, just choose the scanner in the Connections window. I've got a cable in the post so will let you know how I get on.
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Thanks Adam. I bought one too since it was cheap - it really can't hurt to try.
BTW, I have been doing some test scans and I am really impressed with SM5K which might be getting more use from me vs 11K due to banding in shadows. Here is a 5000 DPI vs 11000 DPI scan (aperture 1 for both) resized to 5K DPI for 11K and comparison.
Other than banding and SM11K being more on the red side, I really can't tell a difference between the two for a scan like this.
Netsoft2k
Well-known
So connecting the scanners using a male-to-male cable works just fine but Color Scan and Color Trio can only recognize and use one scanner at a time. It seems the software picks one at random but I can see that both scanners try to come online. For me, I only needed it so I didn't have to move cables each time and looks like everything works as expected as long as I only have one scanner on.
Also, I "might" have discovered something really neat with the SM11K. I wanted to see if I could add some grease to the main motor screw and thought that I could use the service program to move the drum and just put grease from the front without removing any screws. Turns out that I hit "." without selecting 1 first to move the drum and doing so ran a very long (~30 min) calibration cycle in the software. There were several messages in the program that read like "settings before calibration...." ---> "calibration successful..." ---> "settings after calibration...." and these repeated for different apertures for both transmission and reflective modes.
There was also a message that said "drum speed calibration OK" which was really interesting. After this, I have noticed that my drum speed has changed at different DPI scans and one that is very noticeable is that scans around 5000 DPI are now being done at a slower speed. Previously, it ran 5000 DPI scans at full speed similar to preview scans. I ran some comparison scans that I had done at 5000 DPI and I can notice that scans are much cleaner and do not have the "wow/shutter" effect that I had on some of my scans. It could be all in my head but it sure feels like the scanner ran some sort of lengthy auto calibration which seems to have made a noticeable improvement.
Has anyone else ran this and knows what it is suppose to do?
Also, I "might" have discovered something really neat with the SM11K. I wanted to see if I could add some grease to the main motor screw and thought that I could use the service program to move the drum and just put grease from the front without removing any screws. Turns out that I hit "." without selecting 1 first to move the drum and doing so ran a very long (~30 min) calibration cycle in the software. There were several messages in the program that read like "settings before calibration...." ---> "calibration successful..." ---> "settings after calibration...." and these repeated for different apertures for both transmission and reflective modes.
There was also a message that said "drum speed calibration OK" which was really interesting. After this, I have noticed that my drum speed has changed at different DPI scans and one that is very noticeable is that scans around 5000 DPI are now being done at a slower speed. Previously, it ran 5000 DPI scans at full speed similar to preview scans. I ran some comparison scans that I had done at 5000 DPI and I can notice that scans are much cleaner and do not have the "wow/shutter" effect that I had on some of my scans. It could be all in my head but it sure feels like the scanner ran some sort of lengthy auto calibration which seems to have made a noticeable improvement.
Has anyone else ran this and knows what it is suppose to do?
Netsoft2k
Well-known
This was a scary process but I ended up adjusting the PMT pots using the instructions in the service manual. Performed the light tube calibration using the multimeter before adjusting PMTs. Both processes are clearly listed out in the service manual.
White calibration now works properly because it was clear that pots were way out of adjustment in this scanner.
Fernando2
Well-known
That's mighty interesting!
Do you thing this kind of "hidden calibration command" exists on the SM11000 too?
Could you detail exactly which steps you followed in order to perform this "extended calibration"?
We have excessive wow&flutter on our ScanMate (even after having replaced the motor with a new one from Maxon), I'd love to fix it!!!
Thank you very much!
Do you thing this kind of "hidden calibration command" exists on the SM11000 too?
Could you detail exactly which steps you followed in order to perform this "extended calibration"?
We have excessive wow&flutter on our ScanMate (even after having replaced the motor with a new one from Maxon), I'd love to fix it!!!
Thank you very much!
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Hi Fernando,
It actually was my SM11K that I did this on by mistake. I don't want to run the cycle again because it takes so long otherwise I would confirm the steps but I am pretty sure it was the "." (Period key) next to the enter that triggered it.
If you have the monitor cable, it couldn't hurt to try it and see if it does the same for you.
I have a few older scans that show the wow/shutter issue and I plan to redo these for comparison. I will post it here so you can see before and after.
It actually was my SM11K that I did this on by mistake. I don't want to run the cycle again because it takes so long otherwise I would confirm the steps but I am pretty sure it was the "." (Period key) next to the enter that triggered it.
If you have the monitor cable, it couldn't hurt to try it and see if it does the same for you.
I have a few older scans that show the wow/shutter issue and I plan to redo these for comparison. I will post it here so you can see before and after.
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Zoom to see full resolution
Made some sample scans to test the capability of each of my scanners. They are both nearly identical at 5000 DPI but 11000 does bring out more detail after 5000 DPI. It's unfortunate that I don't have a good test negative to really see the power of SM11K but I can clearly see that SM11K resolves more detail in ares where there is emulsion damage on the negative. You can see this in this image if you look carefully at the black spot on the top-right box in #48.
I know I am stating the obvious but these scanners are really impressive when tuned properly.
Made some sample scans to test the capability of each of my scanners. They are both nearly identical at 5000 DPI but 11000 does bring out more detail after 5000 DPI. It's unfortunate that I don't have a good test negative to really see the power of SM11K but I can clearly see that SM11K resolves more detail in ares where there is emulsion damage on the negative. You can see this in this image if you look carefully at the black spot on the top-right box in #48.
I know I am stating the obvious but these scanners are really impressive when tuned properly.
monkeyfist
Established
There is this motor calibration in the service program, seems to be automatic. Should i do it? And what does it actually calibrate?
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Ahh - I wonder if me pressing "." accidentally ran this automatically. Here is what the command information is in the service manual:
Adjust drum motor (M)
This command facility is a software adjustment of the sync. pulse of the
DC motor.
Select M to enter the Adjust drum motor menu and the following will be
shown:
>> Waiting for the drum to settle, with integrator enabled.
Filling palette 0
Filling palette 1
Filling palette 2
Filling palette 3
Index line pos: XXX
Done.
Filling palette 0
Filling palette 1
Filling palette 2
Filling palette 3
Index line pos: XXX
Done.
Index line pos: must be between 225 and 275.
monkeyfist
Established
Did you ran it? I was just thinking is it something i should do. But as the scanner is working fine, don't want to mess anything up
I have the service manual, but was unsure what it actually means. Probably the rotating speed of the drum?
It's fully automatic? Like the aperture calibration?
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Did you ran it? I was just thinking is it something i should do. But as the scanner is working fine, don't want to mess anything up
I have the service manual, but was unsure what it actually means. Probably the rotating speed of the drum?
It's fully automatic? Like the aperture calibration?
It's hard to say if it was exactly this process or something else but my drum speed has definitely changed after running the cycle that ran after pressing the period "." key. I am 100% sure about the change in speed and the fact that scans are much better now and my opinion is that this same (M) command ran during the long cycle but I can't say that with 100% confidence. What I ran was all automatic.
If I were you, I would not touch something that is working perfectly since you have nothing to gain.
monkeyfist
Established
So you are saying your scans are better now...? That is not the way to say someone not to do it!
So i ran it, well it's still running. It either takes really long, or does not finish. It seems the index line pos changes from 263 to 264 periodically while the drum is rotating. Either the motor does not keep the speed 100% constant, or the line on my drum is too damaged to be read properly.
Probably the lines on all my drums are too weak, or non existent. It ran the K drum position thing ones, after that it can't find index line anymore on M. And running K again, won't finish it. I tested printing a line on a clear film, taped in to the drum. Whit that it does the zero position calibration, finds index line. But on the M it does not find the index line.
After some tweaking, it finds my printed index line. But the motor calibration either takes really long, or the motor is not 100% perfect as the index line number keeps changing by 1. I assume it's trying to calibrate the pulse so that it would stay consistent for some period of time.
But the printed index line trick works, if someone wants to calibrate with their scanner with a drum that has weak/non existing index line.
Is the black line on your drum in good condition & clear?
I also tested the ".", and yes.. it does something weird that is not listed in the service manual. Puts out huge amount of data, and starts some sort of test that it does it multiple times. Different apertures & reflective & transparent modes. It might be just some sort of self diagnosis? How long did it approximately run on your scanner? And how many times it did a scan?
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Thanks for that update.
My drum is clear and the line looks just fine so that may be a difference. The "." calibration/diagnosis command ran for about 30-40 minutes and then stopped. Unfortunately, I can't remember how many times it scanned but my guess is 6-10 scans based on my memory about how long each scan was taking.
Good luck!
My drum is clear and the line looks just fine so that may be a difference. The "." calibration/diagnosis command ran for about 30-40 minutes and then stopped. Unfortunately, I can't remember how many times it scanned but my guess is 6-10 scans based on my memory about how long each scan was taking.
Good luck!
monkeyfist
Established
I just cut the power as it was taking so long. Maybe i will leave it on and let i finish at some point.
It might do 18 scans, 9 apertures x 2 for reflective & transparency. 5mins per one scan (308sec). So 90mins.
Would be fun to know what does it actually do. It's weird that it's not mentioned in the service manual.
monkeyfist
Established
Updated my system, was a bit nervous about ColorQuartet maybe not working. But yeah, win10 64bit check! This is why i like windows, it actually supports this ancient machine (Scanmate 11000) still in 2016 in the latest OS version.
No need for extra old computers taking space.
Netsoft2k
Well-known
Thanks for letting us know Monkeyfirst! I run mine on Win7 64 bit.
monkeyfist
Established
Anyone happen to have the ColorQuartet 3.0 original image?
Seems what i need is "scanflow server", i have an original 4.2 cd and 3.0 to 3.4 update cd, but these do not have this. The 3.0 manual speaks of "scanflow server" as an optional module you can choose to install.
I think this is what is needed to run the scanflow mounter i have.
Ok, no need. The 3.4 upgrade cd includes it, but only mac version and it wont start without the dongle. I think i will just sell it off, if someone runs scanmate on mac.
If anyone here has some interest in it, feel free to contact me. I assume its working and i replaced the power source with a new one. As it had this nasty sound.
Seems what i need is "scanflow server", i have an original 4.2 cd and 3.0 to 3.4 update cd, but these do not have this. The 3.0 manual speaks of "scanflow server" as an optional module you can choose to install.
I think this is what is needed to run the scanflow mounter i have.
Ok, no need. The 3.4 upgrade cd includes it, but only mac version and it wont start without the dongle. I think i will just sell it off, if someone runs scanmate on mac.
If anyone here has some interest in it, feel free to contact me. I assume its working and i replaced the power source with a new one. As it had this nasty sound.