Sjon
Member
I have only ever done a few tests on this topic as an experiment, I don't normally scan at 5000DPI so I avoid the issue.Thanks for that
Its come to my understanding that some prefer to scan at 8 bit to gain a higher resolution instead of stitching due to color shift between the 2 scans. What kind of experiences do you guys have regarding this with the ScanMate 11000? I will be scanning both positives and negatives (120 and 8x10).
Also, is a potential color shift that much more likely when scanning in 2 turns, then during an individual scan?
While trying it though I found it to be impossible to get exactly matching exposure when stitching the scanned sections. This can most likely be mended in modern software for creating panoramas but you certainly can't just align the images and expect no edge seperation. Also I often got slight differences in focus when scanning different areas of a 6x7 image. I am not sure how that would work out for large format film.
This might depend on a lot of different factors though and exposure might be more even if you give the bulb appropriate warm up time.
pkr1979
Newbie
Hey,
And thanks. I actually made the effort to figure out what kind of resolution I would get with 10500 on the short side on various formats (which I should have done some time back really). And its gonna produce files large enough for me. If I ever need to print bigger I'll deal with it then
Cheers
Peter
And thanks. I actually made the effort to figure out what kind of resolution I would get with 10500 on the short side on various formats (which I should have done some time back really). And its gonna produce files large enough for me. If I ever need to print bigger I'll deal with it then
Cheers
Peter
nagya
Member
Please help!
My drum after the spinning starts shaking, vibrating. (SM 11000)
There is one way as in the service manual, test and adjust drum, or any other way fix the problem?
Thank you.
My drum after the spinning starts shaking, vibrating. (SM 11000)
There is one way as in the service manual, test and adjust drum, or any other way fix the problem?
Thank you.
anyone01
Member
Glad to see that here are so many knowledgeable people around the Scanmate scanners.. I am thinking of buying one, which apparently has the following issue:
I have problems with the Scanmate 11000. When I switched on the scanner, everything worked. After about 5 minutes, the scanner has switched off by itself. After switching the scanner off and on again with the main switch, the lights "LOCK, READY, BUSY" are flashing and the scanner can not be opened anymore.
Do you have an idea what the issue could be? Apparently there is no service for these scanners anymore, at least not in Germany.
Thank you very much!
I have problems with the Scanmate 11000. When I switched on the scanner, everything worked. After about 5 minutes, the scanner has switched off by itself. After switching the scanner off and on again with the main switch, the lights "LOCK, READY, BUSY" are flashing and the scanner can not be opened anymore.
Do you have an idea what the issue could be? Apparently there is no service for these scanners anymore, at least not in Germany.
Thank you very much!
zylbersztajn_photo
Newbie
Scanmate 1100 HELP !!!
Scanmate 1100 HELP !!!
Hi there,
I've bought a scanmate 1100 and I'm having issues to use the scan software .. .as I dont have a dongle, the scans comes with a watermark. Any possibility to buy a license, dongle, a free software ? anything that may help ???
Thank you for any support or suggestion !!!
Gustavo
Scanmate 1100 HELP !!!
Hi there,
I've bought a scanmate 1100 and I'm having issues to use the scan software .. .as I dont have a dongle, the scans comes with a watermark. Any possibility to buy a license, dongle, a free software ? anything that may help ???
Thank you for any support or suggestion !!!
Gustavo
meloV8
Established
You can turn the system clock back and the program will run without a dongle. ColorTrio is free but scan only 8bit.
Kamph
Established
Hello everyone
Any of you had any luck running QC 5.2 under Windows 10 64bit? QCScan keeps asking me to update the firmware of the scanner. Is there even such a thing as a firmware update for the SM5000? It ran fine under Windows 7 64bit. I'm running it as administrator but so far no luck. The scanner and SCSI card shows up just fine in the Device Manager and the scanner pings when I start the computer.
Any of you had any luck running QC 5.2 under Windows 10 64bit? QCScan keeps asking me to update the firmware of the scanner. Is there even such a thing as a firmware update for the SM5000? It ran fine under Windows 7 64bit. I'm running it as administrator but so far no luck. The scanner and SCSI card shows up just fine in the Device Manager and the scanner pings when I start the computer.
Kamph
Established
Problem solved. There was indeed a newer firmware for my SM5000. I found it on the QC 5.2.2 disk.
nbagno
Established
Scanmate 11000 cover drive belt
Scanmate 11000 cover drive belt
Has anyone ever replaced the belt that opens the cover? Both of mine are shredded. I got the cover assembly apart, but getting a replacement is another story. The belt seems to say Hero, or Mueo... l 2,5-500. I can't really read the numbers.
Update: I was able to get both belts out and clean up the tracks of old grease and belt fragments. Able to use the door manually now. The cover assembly is a little difficult the first time. Once you get the Allen screws out the motor and guide rails don't exactly slide right out. I spent a half-hour trying to figure what was holding it in. It's wedged in there tight and because there are rubber plugs on the sides you need to use a little force to slide it out. Not confident about finding a replacement belt.
Scanmate 11000 cover drive belt
Has anyone ever replaced the belt that opens the cover? Both of mine are shredded. I got the cover assembly apart, but getting a replacement is another story. The belt seems to say Hero, or Mueo... l 2,5-500. I can't really read the numbers.
Update: I was able to get both belts out and clean up the tracks of old grease and belt fragments. Able to use the door manually now. The cover assembly is a little difficult the first time. Once you get the Allen screws out the motor and guide rails don't exactly slide right out. I spent a half-hour trying to figure what was holding it in. It's wedged in there tight and because there are rubber plugs on the sides you need to use a little force to slide it out. Not confident about finding a replacement belt.
monkeyfist
Established
Anyone know if there is a way to see the autofocus value in colorquartet? So if i use autofocus, i could then use this value to set the focus manually?
monkeyfist
Established
Thats a shame, as the door is the best function on the scanner. I could just open and close it all day long
You can probably get a replacement belt from ebay, T2.5 is quit standard.
Something like this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/T2-5-500-0...iming-Belt-500mm-Long-x-8mm-Wide/201616987541
Just check that its the same width as you did not mention the width, but i assume T2.5 is what it said, and 500mm is the length?
nbagno
Established
Thats a shame, as the door is the best function on the scanner. I could just open and close it all day long
You can probably get a replacement belt from ebay, T2.5 is quit standard.
Something like this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/T2-5-500-0...iming-Belt-500mm-Long-x-8mm-Wide/201616987541
Just check that its the same width as you did not mention the width, but i assume T2.5 is what it said, and 500mm is the length?
I couldn't read the manufacturer, but the person I bought it from who has posted in this thread in the past took his apart and helped me out. Looks like this may be it. But yes, it looks to be a standard belt, 4mm wide. Thanks for your response.
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221302235550/?curSearch=%7B%22field%22:%22@search%22,%22seriesCode%22:%22221302235550%22,%22innerCode%22:%22%22,%22sort%22:1,%22specSortFlag%22:0,%22allSpecFlag%22:0,%22page%22:1,%22pageSize%22:%2260%22,%2200000029789%22:%22nvd00000000000006%22,%22jp000126416%22:%22201905010101202831287101%22,%22jp000345255%22:%22201904270013094961261963%22,%22fixedInfo%22:%22MDMC000002A7XB22130223555011%7C11%22%7D&Tab=codeList
monkeyfist
Established
Well, the manufacturer is totally irrelevant. Its like thinking the manufacturer of a screw matters
Just get one that has the same teeth spacing, length & width and you are ready to go.monkeyfist
Established
I know!
You can turn logging ON in CQScan, and after that, you get scan.log file in your ColorQuartet Pro 5.2\sys\cqscdrum directory.
Do a small autofocus scan. Check that the focus was correct, open the file and you can find data like this:
Standard values :
Focus Index, TransmissionValue ReflectionValue : 0 1744 1500
First is drum number, 0 is drum number 1. The second number is your drums focus value in steps (defined by focus calibration).
Then look for this line:
Focus value : 1844 (displacement : 0)
This gives you the autfocus point in steps.
Just deduct the base focus from the autofocus number, divide it by four and flip it. So that 10 is -10. And you can now use it in the "focus elevation".
One step in focus elevation is 4 steps on the motor. Apparently these are micrometers. So one way to do manual focus would be also simply to get a micrometer, and measure the thickness of the film if you would do a focus calibration on the surface of the drum.
This procedure is useful when you scan in parts, and want to retain the same focus on all parts. But still want to use the autofocus, so you dont have to find the focus manually.
I think i have also at some point used just done a focus calibration on the negative i'm scanning, this would basically accomplish the same thing. If it actually hits the focus correctly.
All this would be super cool, if the autofocus actually worked. Its literally impossible to hit sharp focus with it.
nbagno
Established
CQ OSX Unsharp mask crash
CQ OSX Unsharp mask crash
Just me or? In OSX (10.2.8) if I try to change the aperture, as soon as I click on anything in the unsharp mask dialog box CQ crashes. I've tried to reinstall the OS and CQ with the same issue.
CQ OSX Unsharp mask crash
Just me or? In OSX (10.2.8) if I try to change the aperture, as soon as I click on anything in the unsharp mask dialog box CQ crashes. I've tried to reinstall the OS and CQ with the same issue.
philbard
Cirrus Digital Imaging
nbagno
Established
Hey Phil,
I've already wiped out the OS and installed everything fresh, the same issue. Was wondering if it's a known problem. I can't click on anything in that dialog box without crashing CQ
nbagno
Established
Just tried in OSX 10.5.8 and it does not crash when clicking in the unsharp mask dialog box. My goal is to get this thing scanning reliably in 10.5.8. As of now, 10.2.8 connects at first try 80% of the time, if it fails a quick restart and it will connect. 10.3, 10.4, 10.5 are way pickier. I have multiple SCSI cards and multiple G4 computers and have been testing various combos for the past week. Still waiting on a cable for my ATTO SCSI card. Anyway, there's some issue with OS 10.2.8 and my setup :-\ It's always something.
nbagno
Established
Scanmate 11000 bulb assembly replacement
Scanmate 11000 bulb assembly replacement
In case you need to re-do your bulb sockets and wires, here is a parts list that will work for the SM11000, at least mine. I've seen pictures of another scanner, I think a 5000 that used two connectors, mine has one, four circut connector.
1) MOLEX 19-09-1046 2.36mm Diameter Standard .093" Pin and Socket Receptacle Housing with Positive Latch, UL 94V-0, 4 Circuits (you don’t need this if you only want to replace the bulb sockets).
2) Molex 02-09-1104 2.36mm Diameter, Standard .093" Pin and Socket Crimp Terminal, Series 1189, Female, with Tin (Sn) Plated Brass Contact
3) Westinghouse 11108 socket (or similar)
a) Optional - Molex crimp tool. I prefer to manually crimp the connector over the wire insulation and then solder the wire to the connector (after tinning the wire)
b) Optional - .093: pin extraction tool, in case you screw up.
Scanmate 11000 bulb assembly replacement
In case you need to re-do your bulb sockets and wires, here is a parts list that will work for the SM11000, at least mine. I've seen pictures of another scanner, I think a 5000 that used two connectors, mine has one, four circut connector.
1) MOLEX 19-09-1046 2.36mm Diameter Standard .093" Pin and Socket Receptacle Housing with Positive Latch, UL 94V-0, 4 Circuits (you don’t need this if you only want to replace the bulb sockets).
2) Molex 02-09-1104 2.36mm Diameter, Standard .093" Pin and Socket Crimp Terminal, Series 1189, Female, with Tin (Sn) Plated Brass Contact
3) Westinghouse 11108 socket (or similar)
a) Optional - Molex crimp tool. I prefer to manually crimp the connector over the wire insulation and then solder the wire to the connector (after tinning the wire)
b) Optional - .093: pin extraction tool, in case you screw up.
nbagno
Established
Update on the belt. The one in the link above is a perfect fit. In case you need to do this it's pretty straight forward. The service manual does not go over this, I believe it suggests an entire assembly replacement.
- Remove the front cover as shown in the service manual, don't forget to disconnect the ribbon cable.
- Remove the metal end covers
- This is where it's a little tricky if you don't know "the trick". The motor/door assembly is held in place with Allen screws on the side (black). That's it. However, the assembly is a tight fit so it will feel like there is something else holding it in there. There isn't. What you will notice is that one of the metal crossbars is tucked under the lip in the housing so you need to wiggle the assembly past that. It's a little difficult to remove the assembly because there are rubber grommets on the sides pressing against the housing cover. The Allen screws actually go through the grommets. Make sure and disconnect the two cables connecting the front switch panel and careful of the door cover switch rod.
- Once out, you can see belts on the side and how the door attaches to the belts using a clamp. In order to remove the belts, you unscrew the two clamp screws where it attaches to the flat bar that the door plexiglass attaches, and on each side, pop off the metal washers on the side that keeps the belts in the guide.
- On reassembly, I suggest using some lube on the side grommets that you popped off, and on the other grommets to help the assembly slide back in like butter.
Here's a shot of the assembly removed from the housing. Note I removed the noise padding around the motor because I was sure there was something else holding in the assemble as noted above.
Here's my jacked up belt. You can see the grommets that make it difficult to remove the assembly from the housing. Put some lube on them to make it easy to slide back in.
Like new (link to google drive short door opening/closing video) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QfTieINTgWGjMz7jSoueOsTnAF7Hrf6z