scanner hunt...

[g812]

I have looked into developing my own negs (B&W), and it would seem that this is something I wouldn't mind playing with 🙂
But then there is the problem of, if I want to print one or more of the said negs...
I have had a small look, to see what is about, and... well, it's mildly baffling to say the least...
What I am looking for, is something that scans B&W negs, no fancy stuff, doesn't need that image preview lark either (I just want the cursed thing scanned for goodness sake), but good enough that I can, if I want to, print out say an A4 sized copy without any notable... bad things (sorry it's late, the jargon has evaporated), possibly even A3 once in a while if it's really good... or am i dreaming with that one?
any ways, nothing too flashy or expensive 🙂
Looky forward to seeing what you knowledgable lot come up with 🙂
Thanks 🙂

 

[predicolous]

if you're set on a scanner and want the most possible painless scan experience (apart from having to use a virtual machine or dedicated PC which runs XP), get a Pakon.

F135 will do - the output is equal across all models when using TLX Client.

scans the whole roll uncut and you edit after scanning. Super convenient and super fast.
Yes, they come at a price but that's justified.

(I've used flatbeds, nikon coolscans (also the 5000 with SA-30) and if you ever used a scanner which scans the whole roll uncut - you never want to go back to fiddle with any holders)

If you've already got a digital camera you might also want to take a look at scanning with your digital camera. Especially for B&W. For color there are plugins which give great results in converting the images.
All you need is a (2nd hand, manual) Macro Lens, Lighttable, Filmholder and a decent tripod (I recommend a reproduction stand)

 

[Ted Striker]

if you're set on a scanner and want the most possible painless scan experience (apart from having to use a virtual machine or dedicated PC which runs XP), get a Pakon.

F135 will do - the output is equal across all models when using TLX Client.

scans the whole roll uncut and you edit after scanning. Super convenient and super fast.
Yes, they come at a price but that's justified.

(I've used flatbeds, nikon coolscans (also the 5000 with SA-30) and if you ever used a scanner which scans the whole roll uncut - you never want to go back to fiddle with any holders)

If you've already got a digital camera you might also want to take a look at scanning with your digital camera. Especially for B&W. For color there are plugins which give great results in converting the images.
All you need is a (2nd hand, manual) Macro Lens, Lighttable, Filmholder and a decent tripod (I recommend a reproduction stand)

Do you need an older computer to run the software for these Paktons? I have a very new Mac and am interested in one of these but I'm not sure if they can run such old software.

 

[brbo]

Most people run Pakons in WinXP inside virtual machines (free VirtualBox will do).

So, if your computer still has a USB port, it will run.

 

[Ted Striker]

Most people run Pakons in WinXP inside virtual machines (free VirtualBox will do).

So, if your computer still has a USB port, it will run.

Thanks for the follow up info.

 

[DennisM]

Epson V600

Epson V600

I have looked into developing my own negs (B&W), and it would seem that this is something I wouldn't mind playing with 🙂
But then there is the problem of, if I want to print one or more of the said negs...
I have had a small look, to see what is about, and... well, it's mildly baffling to say the least...
What I am looking for, is something that scans B&W negs, no fancy stuff, doesn't need that image preview lark either (I just want the cursed thing scanned for goodness sake), but good enough that I can, if I want to, print out say an A4 sized copy without any notable... bad things (sorry it's late, the jargon has evaporated), possibly even A3 once in a while if it's really good... or am i dreaming with that one?
any ways, nothing too flashy or expensive 🙂
Looky forward to seeing what you knowledgable lot come up with 🙂
Thanks 🙂

I have an Epson V600 scanner. No issues with cleaning or dust control; one just needs to exercise normal handling and cleanliness procedures when handling negatives. Runs well on Windows 10. No issues with inserting 35mm strips in neg holders (6 frames per strip). Certainly less time consuming to scan than wet printing in a darkroom. Excellent scans from 35mm B&W and 6x6 & 6x9 B&W negatives as well as slides. Color negatives would require further processing to achieve optimal results IMHO. PM me and include your e-mail address and I will be happy to send you Epson scans so you can judge for yourself. Bottom line: buy the Epson V600

 

[FujiLove]

if you're set on a scanner and want the most possible painless scan experience (apart from having to use a virtual machine or dedicated PC which runs XP), get a Pakon.

F135 will do - the output is equal across all models when using TLX Client.

scans the whole roll uncut and you edit after scanning. Super convenient and super fast.
Yes, they come at a price but that's justified.

(I've used flatbeds, nikon coolscans (also the 5000 with SA-30) and if you ever used a scanner which scans the whole roll uncut - you never want to go back to fiddle with any holders)

If you've already got a digital camera you might also want to take a look at scanning with your digital camera. Especially for B&W. For color there are plugins which give great results in converting the images.
All you need is a (2nd hand, manual) Macro Lens, Lighttable, Filmholder and a decent tripod (I recommend a reproduction stand)

I'll second this. If and when my Pakon breaks down and becomes unrepairable, I'll either ditch all my 35mm cameras, or just wet print everything.

I run my Pakon on an iMac using VMWare Fusion and Windows XP. I believe there are now freeware versions of XP available, as it's no longer sold or supported.

If you go the Pakon route, join the Pakon Facebook group. They have all the 'latest' software and loads of useful scripts. The members are great at getting people up and running and sorting out problems.

 

[g812]

Thanks for the info 🙂
seems that old school, uses... well!
old school 😉
I'll take a look
Thanks again.

 

[g812]

😱 *faints*
think I'll keep looking for something a little cheaper...
did someone mention something about an epson?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Epson flatbed. Or used Plustek without i, because it doesn't work with bw.

 

[Dan Daniel]

What format film? If 35mm only, BUY THIS- right now. Pay the $125. Don't think, just do it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Konica-Minolta-Dimage-Scan-Dual-IV-Film-Slide-Scanner-Model-AF-3200-works/143111393502?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Then get Vuescan to run it. Now have fun.

 

[Swift1]

The Epson V600 will do what you're asking just fine. It's fairly easy to use, the Epson software works well on modern OS, it will give good quality scans from 35mm that will print nicely up to 8"x12", and won't cost you much.
Yes a dedicated 35mm scanner will give you better/more resolution, but will cost more, will be slower, and will be more complicated in use.

I have a Nikon Coolscan V and an Epson V750, and for black and white film I honestly prefer the results I get from the Epson.

 

[g812]

nice

nice

Some of those used plusteks look like a good option (for now) 🙂
Certainly make it easier asking the purse (wife) and justifying my foray into this.
So now the next question...
Epson V550 or Plustek 7300 (without the i)😀 ?
the plustek is £5 cheaper and will probably be able to get that past the wife, as she'll not understand the reason why we need another scanner.

 

[predicolous]

😱 *faints*
think I'll keep looking for something a little cheaper...
did someone mention something about an epson?

o.k. - if you don't want to spend 900$ on a scanner it suggest to look into scanning with your camera.

It's very fast and e.g. Negative Lab Pro or Color Perfect help you with the conversion of C41 negatives. I highly recommend NLP for this use.

Compared to a flatbed, sharpness and speed will increase and by stiching you can generate large files for large prints.
the only thing you'd be missing out is D-ICE (which doesn't work on B&W anyway)

see the second part of my first post here:

you might also want to take a look at scanning with your digital camera. Especially for B&W. For color there are plugins which give great results in converting the images.
All you need is a (2nd hand, manual) Macro Lens, Lighttable, Filmholder and a decent tripod (I recommend a reproduction stand)

keep in mind, there are basically 4 kinds of "scanner" users

• Flatbed will do & I get great results from them
• You NEED to have a dedicated filmscanner
• WHAT? dedicated filmscanner? Wacky colors and way to slow. you NEED a Lab-Scanner

and:

• *** scanners? They're overpriced and outdated. My digital camera is so much better!

in the end you need to decide for yourself what you want to use, as everybody is reassuring himself that his current state is the best.
Each solution has its' advantages and drawbacks.

I went through every iteration and finally arrived at owning 2 lab scanners.

We'll see if I stay here or if there will be a drumscanner next. you never know :angel:
( I really hope I'm on the final stage of this now )

 

[predicolous]

Some of those used plusteks look like a good option (for now) 🙂
Certainly make it easier asking the purse (wife) and justifying my foray into this.
So now the next question...
Epson V550 or Plustek 7300 (without the i)😀 ?
the plustek is £5 cheaper and will probably be able to get that past the wife, as she'll not understand the reason why we need another scanner.

:'D

if you only shoot 35mm then take the plustek! sharpness is way better than on the flatbed.

If you ever find yourself unhappy with the colors - Negative Lab Pro will support the inversion of RAW scans in the next release.
What I've seen until now is far ahead of every inversion done by scanner software (including Vuescan).

but again: think about using the camera. Especially if you already own a Macro lens. if not, buy a second hand manual focus one. Completely sufficient.
so much faster and outstand results when using NLP - really! and you're set for all formats

Cost of macro lens: 100$
Cost of good light source (CRI >95%): 100$
Filmholder: 30$
Negative Lab Pro: 99$ (only recommended when doing C41 inversions, although I like it for B&W as well)

1 more thing:
don't believe the resolution Epson or Plustek state. complete nonsense.
from the Epson V550 / V600 you'll get around 1700 dpi, from the V700 around 2300 dpi.
from the Plustek 7300 you can expect something around 3000 dpi
Source

 

[Huss]

o.k. - if you don't want to spend 900$ on a scanner it suggest to look into scanning with your camera....

Compared to a flatbed, sharpness and speed will increase and by stitching you can generate large files for large prints....

Why do you need to stitch for large prints? I'm printing 20x30 and can go much larger with just a single capture (using a digicam w 47mp sensor)

 

[predicolous]

Why do you need to stitch for large prints? I'm printing 20x30 and can go much larger with just a single capture (using a digicam w 47mp sensor)

Because not everybody has a 47 MP camera, Huss 😉

I guess most digital Crop and FF cameras range around 24 MP?
[Which is still pretty decent for (my kind of) „normal“ sized prints]

 

[wwfloyd]

Regarding Epson flatbed scanners...


I have the V550 (IIRC, same as the V600, but without extra software packages). I have cursed this scanner many times!


The problem is the negative carriers... IF you have problems with non-flat negatives. I've had that issue a lot with 35mm Tri-X, and, somewhat less with T-Max 100. My recent HP5+ 120 negs were pretty flat, and gave me no trouble.


The included 35mm holder takes 2 strips of 6. Distance from the glass is not much. You're supposed to insert the negs with emulsion up. That puts the lenghtwise warp facing downward. Often the center 2 frames of each strip touch the glass, and cause Newton rings in the scans. So, you try scanning with the emulsion down. Now, the hump sticks up, and seems to be outside the sweet spot for focus.


Air temp and moisture are contributing factors. I do better if I develop just before bed, when the heating or AC will be off for several hours, as the negatives dry. Still, I rarely had 35mm negs with no trouble.


I've tried several other-brand carriers that I could buy from B&H. With frame dividers, they would hold the negs nice and flat, but, were too high from the glass. I didn't dive right in and buy ANR glass, as I figured it would be more trouble to keep clean, and focus distance might be off.



But, finally, I bought a 6-strip carrier from an older Epson scanner (from Ebay seller, $20). Use with emulsion down, and the carrier has ANR glass on top, which flattens the negative. It's the right height, and makes nice scans. I just had to determine the best location under the backlight. And, I can only do 6 frames at a time, rather than 12.

 

[MartinN]

I would recommend an Epson flatbed (550,600,700) OR if you would like better quality Plustek Opticfilm 135. In my opinion the Plustek 7000 or 8000 are not very good options because you would have to manually position every frame and that's not fun, at least with lots of films.

 

[Ted Striker]

. I've had that issue a lot with 35mm Tri-X, and, somewhat less with T-Max 100. My recent HP5+ 120 negs were pretty flat, and gave me no trouble.

I totally agree with this. Tri-X is THE worst film when it comes to flatness. Scanning this film is unbearably painful and as a result, like you I long ago switched to HP5+.