jaimiepeeters
Well-known
Hi guys
I own a Plustek 7400 and have used Silverfast SE plus 8 on my Lion 10.7 iMac.
Tried Vuescan yesterday and I did get some clearer results, the results were not consistent.
It frustrates me to the bone that
1. I am not sure if the scan I'm making is what the images on this particular film actually looks like
2. I am not able to get consistent scans that allow me to make them all look nice in PS.
It would make me ecstatic to be able to use film photography a lot more often than digital, because when i DO get good results, I find it far more beautiful than digital.
If you would like to see examples of images that worked and not worked for me, I will post them.
Guidance, tips, bashing, anything that helps me succeed in great scanning is welcome!
What do I do?
with Silverfast:
preview scan
2400dpi
no film type selection
automatic CC on
if the scan is a bit too red or so I use the colorcorrection to adjust
scan to tiff
edit in PS
with Vuescan:
preview scan of clear film
lock exposure
preview scan of clear film again
lock film base color
scan a full image
adjust black/white points and dark/light curve and brightness (more like fooling around with them, because I get confused 2 tries in)
save as tiff 48bit
I spent from 8pm to 2am on trying to learn AGAIN how to properly scan, so I have tried believe me.. I spent many hours into the night some time ago as well.. I thought I had it down with Silverfast, but the Vuescan scans seem clearer, though inconsistent.
So help me out of this scanning hell please!
I own a Plustek 7400 and have used Silverfast SE plus 8 on my Lion 10.7 iMac.
Tried Vuescan yesterday and I did get some clearer results, the results were not consistent.
It frustrates me to the bone that
1. I am not sure if the scan I'm making is what the images on this particular film actually looks like
2. I am not able to get consistent scans that allow me to make them all look nice in PS.
It would make me ecstatic to be able to use film photography a lot more often than digital, because when i DO get good results, I find it far more beautiful than digital.
If you would like to see examples of images that worked and not worked for me, I will post them.
Guidance, tips, bashing, anything that helps me succeed in great scanning is welcome!
What do I do?
with Silverfast:
preview scan
2400dpi
no film type selection
automatic CC on
if the scan is a bit too red or so I use the colorcorrection to adjust
scan to tiff
edit in PS
with Vuescan:
preview scan of clear film
lock exposure
preview scan of clear film again
lock film base color
scan a full image
adjust black/white points and dark/light curve and brightness (more like fooling around with them, because I get confused 2 tries in)
save as tiff 48bit
I spent from 8pm to 2am on trying to learn AGAIN how to properly scan, so I have tried believe me.. I spent many hours into the night some time ago as well.. I thought I had it down with Silverfast, but the Vuescan scans seem clearer, though inconsistent.
So help me out of this scanning hell please!
Rogier
Rogier Willems
Try Vuescan with the Color settings on "Auto".
Scan preview in a quick 600dpi.
Scan resolution on 2400 / 3600
Uncheck scan from preview..
Keep it simple...
Scan preview in a quick 600dpi.
Scan resolution on 2400 / 3600
Uncheck scan from preview..
Keep it simple...
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
kanzlr
Hexaneur
which film are you using?
ad 1. impossible to say. That is like saying I want the image to look like the original RAW file! A RAW file will aways be processed by the RAW converter. A Negative will always be either scanned or printed, and both are processing steps where you make decisions that affect the final print/scan.
What I do for color images:
48 bit tiff scan (non inverted) in vuescan and convert it to positive color in photoshop with the colorperfect plugin. That gives superb results everytime for colorfilm.
with black and white I do it mostly in vuescan.
1. I always output bw as jpg
2. do a prescan, draw the rectangle, adjust the histogram white and black points as far as possible
3. scan
4. open in Photoshop
5. press command M (on the mac) to adjust curves. Adjust black and white point, maybe add an S curve for more contrast
thats it
ad 1. impossible to say. That is like saying I want the image to look like the original RAW file! A RAW file will aways be processed by the RAW converter. A Negative will always be either scanned or printed, and both are processing steps where you make decisions that affect the final print/scan.
What I do for color images:
48 bit tiff scan (non inverted) in vuescan and convert it to positive color in photoshop with the colorperfect plugin. That gives superb results everytime for colorfilm.
with black and white I do it mostly in vuescan.
1. I always output bw as jpg
2. do a prescan, draw the rectangle, adjust the histogram white and black points as far as possible
3. scan
4. open in Photoshop
5. press command M (on the mac) to adjust curves. Adjust black and white point, maybe add an S curve for more contrast
thats it
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
I used Portra 400
Where can I get the colorperfect plugin? I would love to try that!
Where can I get the colorperfect plugin? I would love to try that!
kanzlr
Hexaneur
www.colorneg.de
the best investment I made for my scanning needs as of now. I posted this sample a few days ago, but it shows how Portra looks with the default profile (this was an overcast day):
Jan / 90mm f2.8 Sonnar / Contax G2 von kanzlr auf Flickr
the best investment I made for my scanning needs as of now. I posted this sample a few days ago, but it shows how Portra looks with the default profile (this was an overcast day):
Jan / 90mm f2.8 Sonnar / Contax G2 von kanzlr auf Flickr
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
Is it the colorneg or colorperfect link I'm looking for? It's in German haha
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Here's how I set Vuescan to scan with my Nikon scanner. Notice that it gives very flat, lifeless scans. This is ok, that means the scanner captures all the detail and tonal range in the film...you then edit it in Photoshop (or whatever editing software you like) to bring up the contrast to normal. I have examples of the scans right from the scanner, and after editing to show what I'm trying to describe.
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
This is black and white.. I almost never shoot in B&W, though much appreciated!
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
chris,
thanks for the link, i was searching it
the other day but could not find it from
your website main menu.....
raytoei
thanks for the link, i was searching it
the other day but could not find it from
your website main menu.....
raytoei
kanzlr
Hexaneur
here is the English link:
http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html
http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
Is it possible to share the plug in if I'd pay 50% of the cost?
Michiel Fokkema
Michiel Fokkema
I do as Kanzlr.
Scan in Vuescan as a linear scan. Then convert in PS with the colorneg plug in.
Scan in Vuescan as a linear scan. Then convert in PS with the colorneg plug in.
edge100
Well-known
VueScan + ColorPerfect + minor Photoshop = scanning bliss.
Oh, a properly exposed negative (which means anything but underexposed).
Oh, a properly exposed negative (which means anything but underexposed).
kanzlr
Hexaneur
You cannot just share a software license.
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I have to admit that I find these scanning threads excruciating reading. Partly because I as well as most posters have been in the OP's hell. There is so much contradictory advice because there are so many different ways to get results.
My method with color negs in vuescan (for what it is worth), is like the routine in the first post with the exception of the colortab adjustments.
1. Set to Color negatives under Input tab.
2. Preview clear leader or frame gap.
3. Lock exposure, then preview again.
4. Lock film base color.
5. Leave Color balance to None. (don't set white and black points etc.)
6. Output Raw dng or tiff (either works).
Set Raw output with: Save, and Raw save film (this way it reverses the image and applies IR cleaning).
7. Open in ACR or LR. The image will be very blue, but white balance and contrast adjustments should be fairly simple.
I haven't used any plugins, but I think the standard Adobe tools are powerful enough. I batch scan like this, and get very consistent results. I output a dng and then reprocess it in adobe dng converter (I know that is double), as the later dng versions apply lossless compression which reduces file size by 20%. A tiff is easier to open in PS bypassing ACR, so choosing tiff or dng mainly depends on post processing preferences. I have also made 'camera profiles' with Dng profile editor for each of my scanner/film configurations that shift the white balance into the ballpark so images look better when I import. The final result is not different from a white balance with the 'embedded' profile.
Hope this helps.
My method with color negs in vuescan (for what it is worth), is like the routine in the first post with the exception of the colortab adjustments.
1. Set to Color negatives under Input tab.
2. Preview clear leader or frame gap.
3. Lock exposure, then preview again.
4. Lock film base color.
5. Leave Color balance to None. (don't set white and black points etc.)
6. Output Raw dng or tiff (either works).
Set Raw output with: Save, and Raw save film (this way it reverses the image and applies IR cleaning).
7. Open in ACR or LR. The image will be very blue, but white balance and contrast adjustments should be fairly simple.
I haven't used any plugins, but I think the standard Adobe tools are powerful enough. I batch scan like this, and get very consistent results. I output a dng and then reprocess it in adobe dng converter (I know that is double), as the later dng versions apply lossless compression which reduces file size by 20%. A tiff is easier to open in PS bypassing ACR, so choosing tiff or dng mainly depends on post processing preferences. I have also made 'camera profiles' with Dng profile editor for each of my scanner/film configurations that shift the white balance into the ballpark so images look better when I import. The final result is not different from a white balance with the 'embedded' profile.
Hope this helps.
brbo
Well-known
There is a trial version, so you can see if it works for you.
If somebody offered to give me $20k Noctilux + Leica M or $60 ColorPerfect plug-in... I would pick ColorPerfect.
But others obviously get by without it and get good results. I'm not that good so I have to use ColorPerfect (and I use it for c-41, e-6 and bw film).
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
I downloaded the trial version, but I get confused about installing it... any tips? regarding colorperfect
anerjee
Well-known
Colorperfect is only available as a plug-in -- Photoshop, or Elements or Photoline. If you do not have the first 2, then the third one is a good and cheap option.
You need to place the plugin in a "correct" folder, as far as I can remember.
It is the very best investment in color film photography for me. Fuji Reala, Rolleiflex Automat
You need to place the plugin in a "correct" folder, as far as I can remember.
It is the very best investment in color film photography for me. Fuji Reala, Rolleiflex Automat
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
does anybody have experience with a Plustek 7400 + vuescan or silverfast and colorperfect...?
Because I'm about to throw my 7400 away! :'(
Because I'm about to throw my 7400 away! :'(