Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
Maternity shoot w/Leica M-A, Summicron Asph 35 2.0, Kodak ProImage 100, D850 scan
Carriage
Established
Huss
Veteran
Fuji TX2, 45mm w center filter, Kodak E100, D850 scan
Huss
Veteran
Fuji TX2, 45mm, center filter, Kodak E100, D850 scan
dubesor
Newbie
I would love use my D750 to scan my many many rolls of 120, but I'm a bit lost with the process (after the image is shot in RAW on a Lightpad). I've tried following another member's advice and doing the WB eyedropper + invert via curves in LR, but it looks way off. Would anyone be willing to show a step-by-step with screenshots? Or point me to a good Youtube video? (the few i've found so far are really amateur-ish with results that have terrible color balance and quality). Would love to figure it out, but feel really stuck right now ...
Thanks in advance for any advice!!
Thanks in advance for any advice!!
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Also, I have found Peter Krough’s ebook to be very helpful:
https://www.damuseful.com/collections/all-products/products/digitizing-your-photographs-pdf
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Highly recommend Negative Lab Pro
Not yet fully released, but I think it's ready for prime time.
Use this url to get it today, trial or buy: https://www.negativelabpro.com
EDIT: Now fully released. I have updated the URL above.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Or... here's a long thread on other options.
Huss
Veteran
Whoa, thanks for posting that! Will definitely check it out.
dubesor
Newbie
Whoa! Thanks! (also to the other person who mentioned this)
Negative Lab Pro looks like exactly what I needed!! Every other process/guide seemed too finicky (in the part of the process after the inverted "too blue" image is in LR, the tweaks were always very subjective and final results didn't look good). I'll give this a try on my Lightpad ASAP!
stevierose
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Your welcome. I've been waiting a long time for software like this. ColorPerfect drove me crazy!
I really like the photos you have posted.
Take care
Steve Rosenblum
Huss
Veteran
Leica M7, Zeiss 35 1.4, Fuji C200, scanned with D850, processed with negativelabpro.com
brbo
Well-known
The way things are going with all this new camera scans and the ("pro") plugins, the information of which plugin was used for inversion will now have to be a part of the image (I suggest a big bold watermark across the image!).
Take the above image from Huss, you compute the "negativelabpro" and the image and you then know that the trike was (most probably)... red.
Or purple.
Take the above image from Huss, you compute the "negativelabpro" and the image and you then know that the trike was (most probably)... red.
Or purple.
Huss
Veteran
I think what matters is whether the image is satisfying to the creator/processor of that image.
"In the old days"... image modification/processing was done in the darkroom by selecting grades of paper, dodging, burning etc. They never actually were identical to a pure inversion of the negative.
"In the old days"... image modification/processing was done in the darkroom by selecting grades of paper, dodging, burning etc. They never actually were identical to a pure inversion of the negative.
danitoma
Newbie
Please take a look in the following thread:
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2843908&posted=1#post2843908
There are solutions mentioned for the red issue, and in a quick test I did I got much better results. The developer also responded to the thread and is open to any questions and remarks
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2843908&posted=1#post2843908
There are solutions mentioned for the red issue, and in a quick test I did I got much better results. The developer also responded to the thread and is open to any questions and remarks
Huss
Veteran
Leica R8, 50mm Summicron, Fuji C200, D850 scan in film digitizer mode with ES-2 film holder
Venice Beach street scene.
Venice Beach street scene.
tifat
Member
Has anyone tried modifying and enlarger head for use as a film copier? I have a Durst M805 condenser "parts" enlarger and a Zeiss ZM Makro. Since the Dust head is box shaped, it can sit with the lens facing up. A couple of step-up filter rings allow the lens to attach to the lens stage. I've taken out the condenser and put a translucent bit of plastic in the filter drawer. I'm only worried about B&W so I plan to use a compact florescent as the light source (hopefully keeping it cool). An adapter and a Fuji XT20 and I hope I'll be in business. Does this sound like ti should work? Thanks.
jzagaja
Well-known
Below you can see my initial results with Fuji X-T2, Focotar, Leica Reprovit and Bowens Illumitrans 3S:
1) Entire 35mm frame resolution is 1800dpi, worst than Epson V700, image looks so-so
2) At maxiumum magnification I can get almost 5000dpi but still drum scan has better detail.
3) Shadows are poorer even slightly overexposed, especially flare is visible.
Drum scanner with visible register error (in need of service) will perform similar to 2).
Conclusion - Minolta Elite II had best lens I've seen on res chart. Drum scanner maintenance is difficult today. Camera scan is capable if multistitch used with better lens and sensor.
1) Entire 35mm frame resolution is 1800dpi, worst than Epson V700, image looks so-so
2) At maxiumum magnification I can get almost 5000dpi but still drum scan has better detail.
3) Shadows are poorer even slightly overexposed, especially flare is visible.
Drum scanner with visible register error (in need of service) will perform similar to 2).
Conclusion - Minolta Elite II had best lens I've seen on res chart. Drum scanner maintenance is difficult today. Camera scan is capable if multistitch used with better lens and sensor.