Sorayah37
Newbie
Hello everyone, these links are great. I thank you personally for those. However I have a question to ask you in private message if it is possible. Thank you for your return, Regards,Contax TVS III, Fuji C200, Z7 scan, negativelabpro.com
[url=http://www.shuttle-paris-airports.com/paris-shuttle] transfers Dieppe[/url]
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Fuji 200 film from 2010, Camera-scan, conversion in NLP. This is the fabulous Happō-en garden in Tokyo.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
One more, one of the train stations in Tokyo, Fuji 200, conversion in Negative Lab Pro, a real game-changer.
Dogman
Veteran
I gotta thank you guys. I almost bought a new scanner until I read this thread. Instead I'm now using an old Nikon D800, a new 60mm Micro-Nikkor and the Nikon ES-2 adapter and getting outstanding results copying 40-45 year old B&W negatives of old friends, former lovers and family I had not seen in years. I would post something but it's too damn difficult for me to post photos on this forum (I've done it...ain't worth the effort to me). If the forum ever gets to a stage where a simple resize, drag and drop is used for posting, I'll jump in.
I'm gonna try copying some of my slides when I finish with the B&Ws. Right now, I gotta return the lens because it's defective and fails to focus intermittently.
I'm gonna try copying some of my slides when I finish with the B&Ws. Right now, I gotta return the lens because it's defective and fails to focus intermittently.
Ted Striker
Well-known
Weird, I just post a link of my photo and then it's here. Never thought it was hard.
DHK
-
Forgive me if this has already been asked/ discussed. I'm looking for a solution to large format (4x5) negative digitization. Has anyone tried this? Do you need a macro lens that is lower mag? 1:10 maybe?
phosci
Member
Huss
Veteran
Exactly what he said.
Huss
Veteran
Hasselblad H1, Fuji Velvia, Z7 scan (the picture hanging on the wall not the overall scene!)
24x36 printed on aluminum, waiting for client. Just had to see how it looked out of the crate!
24x36 printed on aluminum, waiting for client. Just had to see how it looked out of the crate!
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Most macro lenses will deliver excellent performance in one-shot of 4x5.
I'm getting nice prints at 20x30 with a 24MPx body from good 35mm negatives and chromes.
Ronald M
Veteran
My KM5400-1 works fine. Software was fine, but no longer works with OS X. Silverfast is very expensive.
Vue Scan I do not like. original software was way better than either.
Opted for a Nikon ES 2 filmholder for DSLR "scanning". This is designed for 60 Micro. I used that lens and D800E. It performs as well as any scanner we can afford.
I would guess a quality copy stand, same camera, and enlarger negative carrier would work as well. I am too old to be making stuff I can buy for $150.
Huss
Veteran
Huss
Veteran
Rolleiflex 2.8E, Kodak Portra NC160, Nikon Z7 scan
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Now, for something different... How good is the image from camera-scan of 35mm? Which is better, assuming good lenses, APS or FF? Or does it make a difference?
Here's a quick/dirty test shot I did years ago with 50mm f/1.8 Nikon standard lens. Now, camera-scanned with 24MPx Sony and a very good macro lens, the 70mm f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART.
Here's center crop at 300% for APS and full-frame capture of same negative. Ultimate resolution of both is 6.5, multiplier is about 4, so this is 2500 LW/PH for the whole multi-step imaging process. Probably more important for image quality is clarity and contrast well below ultimate resolution. Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little. Probably hard to see difference in prints.
One more crop at 300%, a bit away from center.
My conclusion: Use good lens, FF a little better, but don't obsess if your preferred gear is APS.
Here's a quick/dirty test shot I did years ago with 50mm f/1.8 Nikon standard lens. Now, camera-scanned with 24MPx Sony and a very good macro lens, the 70mm f/2.8 Sigma Macro ART.
Here's center crop at 300% for APS and full-frame capture of same negative. Ultimate resolution of both is 6.5, multiplier is about 4, so this is 2500 LW/PH for the whole multi-step imaging process. Probably more important for image quality is clarity and contrast well below ultimate resolution. Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little. Probably hard to see difference in prints.
One more crop at 300%, a bit away from center.
My conclusion: Use good lens, FF a little better, but don't obsess if your preferred gear is APS.
Huss
Veteran
Interesting results Richard. I never would have thought of making a comparison as I just use the equipment I have. If I had an APS-C camera, I would use that. I do have an M-43 camera, but no macro lens so I'm stuck with using my FF camera.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Interesting results Richard. I never would have thought of making a comparison as I just use the equipment I have. If I had an APS-C camera, I would use that. I do have an M-43 camera, but no macro lens so I'm stuck with using my FF camera.
This is sort of the last open question in refining my camera-scan setup. I have both body-types, so had to see if it made a difference.
SURF
Member
I don't get it. ISO250 vs ISO100. Why? Looks like Sigma Macro ART struggle on a APS-C. Have a pics for corners?
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
ISO 250? Yeah, my error. But 250 is low enough I don't believe it made any difference.
70 Sigma Macro ART "struggling" on APS? Please comment on what leads you to that.
My assessment:
- APS and FF are very close with this very good lens
- FF is just a little better on test target and test shots
- So, use either FF or APS with a very good lens
- With a lesser lens (e.g. 55 f/3.5 Micro-Nikkor), corners on FF at 1x suffer; may not show in real images, but I'll stick with APS for best results
Corners? There was no corner detail in the negative I posted. Here's a USAF test target, first center then corner. I judge these based on quality and contrast up/down "5" column, not on ultimate resolution.
Center: APS left, FF right
Corner:
Emile de Leon
Well-known
I would think that APS or micro 4/3 w/full frame lens..will get rid of the "dirty corner" realities of most lenses.
I've been happy with Focotar-2 on BEEON or Leitz Valoy for 6x9 and up..
Thing is..you can always get a better lens..
But in my old age..I ask..
Does it really matter on most stuff..
Probably not..
I've been happy with Focotar-2 on BEEON or Leitz Valoy for 6x9 and up..
Thing is..you can always get a better lens..
But in my old age..I ask..
Does it really matter on most stuff..
Probably not..
SURF
Member
Maybe better word is "thinks to start struggling". It's a bit softer on your image. "Also, grain resolution. In this, full frame wins by a little." -- your words too.
As for corner details we can use grain.
That's great. Corners look better than center. It's a very good lens. Are both images on a same focus plane or best focus was used?
24MP is nothing for that lens. It can work on 100MP APS-C. To proove that you can use telecovertor or two. At least in the center.