Shooting Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

Most of the time when you deal with suppliers, it is a pain, but occasionally you find the gems'
I was running low on some basic chemicals as well as some lesser used ones and made up a shopping list. Shipping cross border can be difficult these days so I was looking for a Canadian supplier. A friend recommended contact@JDphotochem.com in Quebec. This is one of the gems! Claire Vrana who obviously runs it, not only phones or emails back quickly, but checks what you are ordering and corrects your mistakes!! She is also very competitively priced - same as or often cheaper than Photographers Formulary. She jsut emailed and said that the first 20lbs box was going out today and the rest (at least 2 more 20 lbs boxes) are going out later this week.
Well, once all the stuff is here I should be set for a while, at least for basic stuff like D76/D86/D96/Adox/Pyro-Cat HD and paper developer.
Great source for us above the 49th's parallel!
 
Developers I am ready to try with XX.

Developers I am ready to try with XX.

I am ready to try the following developers with my XX, and I'll report the results. PMK pyro liquid set, from Photographer's Formulary, Diafine one-gallon kit, Kodak Microdol-X 1 gallon (do they still make Microdol Replenisher??), Fuji SP Super Prodol (from Megaperls, Japan), Paterson Acutol (have four bottles still left:D), and 1-gallon Acufine (still need Replenisher):
 
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Please do update us, particularly with PMK. This is a developer I plan to use on Double-X (and not Super-XX as my first version of this post stated) once I get my can in May. I suspect it will be a good combination.

I've never seen Super Prodol. What is it like?
 
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There are some particularly amazingly-toned photos by Cale Arthur on the 5222 Flikr forum. Taken on XX, developed in Fuji Super Prodol. I have 2 1-litre packets, and 2 5-litre packets, to use up, at this point. I wonder if Fuji makes a replenisher for Super Prodol? Anybody know?
 
Just -finally- finished another 2000ml tank run, with ADOX Borax MQ developer, consisting of three rolls of XX (finished the last roll on a walk this morning), one roll of Neopan 1600 (exposed at 640EI), one roll of evil lovely Agfa 100 shot through my Kiev 60, and another old evil 120 roll of crappy outdated MACO Orthochromatic film. Once again, eight minutes at 20C, agitation 15 sec first minute, 5 sec each additional minute.

Still like this developer for general purpose use. Everything looks very easy to print, except maybe the MACO (Tom- it's about like Rollei Retro, I think). Rolls from my XX short-end can, and unopened 400' can from Hollywood, Florida, all look great. So all three of the emulsion numbers I have right now are giving me -superb- results.

-Dan, now, if it would stop snowing around here........
 
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I did some early in this XX series. If you go to our Flickr and type in the tags "Double XX HC 110" there are about 30 shots done with that combination. If i remember right, most with the 1:60 (from raw HC 110) and at 11-12 min. Works well, but I find the tones better with a MQ type developer. The grain is also a bit enhanced with the HC 110.
 
Nokton48 said:
Kodak Microdol-X 1 gallon (do they still make Microdol Replenisher??)
Click to expand...

According to the data sheet from Kodak, the dedicated replenisher has been discontinued. Same document has instructions to mix a replenisher from regular Microdol-X powder.

I finally got my gallon of Acufine replenisher, but the quart sized can is still on back order from Freestyle... I'm going to be up in NYC some next week so maybe I'll just walk over to B&H and buy a can or three since it's so hard to get ;)
 
I just posted some 30 shots with XX and Td 201. It was the 6th run through (30 rolls in total) and I have a persistant problem with dust specks. I need to devise a different filter system and I might have to go to some lab supplier and see whats available. The coffee filters are letting too much through.
This said, the more I use the XX in the Td 201 or Adox, the more I like it. It also has the advantage that it dries flat and smooth, whilst some ot the other films dries into coil springs!
I have started recieving my chemical supply. First 40 lbs arrived this week and there is another 20lbs on the way. With 5 lbs of Hydroqinone I should be set for a while! I also got some Potassium Carbonate for Pyro Cat (10lbs) and once this run with the Td 201 is over (another 10 rolls - just to see if it deterioates after 25+ rolls) I will mix some of that up and try it. Need to reload another 400 feet too.
 
Just to add another data point on developers. I have tried two short rolls metered at 250 in D76 1+1 (10 minutes 20 degrees C). I get negatives that are easy to print and good contrast (much better than I got with HC-110) and minimal grain.

I just posted two pictures (scanned from 5X7 prints) on the flickr 5222 group.

Looking back at other postings I have seen several which suggested D76 stock, but I decided to try 1+1 so that I only had to mix fresh developer half as often. Also, I believe that I read somewhere that diluting D76 gives the appearance a finer grain because of grain edge dissolving activity.
 
cosmonot said:
Same document has instructions to mix a replenisher from regular Microdol-X powder.
Click to expand...

Would you mind telling me what that document says exactly? Thanks!

Tom,
Seems like we have had similar problems with crud getting on our negatives. I wonder if Laboratory Filter Paper would work better than Al's coffee filters? I also have used a big ball of Johnson & Johnson cotton stuffed into the end of a plastic funnel to filter darkroom developers in the past. Sometimes the cotton ball turns jet-black from all the filtered -crap-.

Anybody know about laboraory filter paper? Where's a cheap place to get it?
 
I started using one of these babies:
http://www.labsafety.com/search/wash+bottle/35661/

a few years ago, and I no longer have any problem with crud on my negatives.

My procedure is to do a quick immersion of the washed film in the standard Photo-flo type solution in a tray. Then I take one of these bottles filled with distilled water and a capful of rubbing alcohol and spray the film up and down over my sink right after I hang it to dry. The velocity of the water from this bottle seems to dislodge those pesky crud lumps and the alcohol helps it dry quickly with no water spots. Best $5 piece of darkroom equipment around. Do a google on wash bottle. Lab Safety Supply is only one of many places that sell these things. Just find the cheapest one, buy it, and life will be good once again.
 
Nokton48 said:
Would you mind telling me what that document says exactly? Thanks!
Click to expand...

It's right there on Kodak's site:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j4027/j4027.jhtml#replenishment

Replenishment

KODAK MICRODOL-X Replenisher has been discontinued. Customers who have been using this product may wish to try the following procedure that would allow them to continue using KODAK MICRODOL-X Developer in a replenished system.
This procedure provides a replenishing solution that should produce the same photographic results as MICRODOL-X Replenisher when used to replenish MICRODOL-X Developer. Although this solution does not exactly match the solution obtained when mixing the discontinued replenisher, a preliminary evaluation of this substitute replenishing solution has indicated that it works reasonably well. It has not, however, been extensively tested. Customers who wish to continue to replenish MICRODOL-X Developer are encouraged to run their own evaluation to determine whether it will meet their needs.
To make 3 U.S. quarts (2.84 litres) of replenishing solution:
  1. Start with approximately 2 U.S. quarts (2 litres) of water at 90-100°F (32-38°C).
  2. Add the contents of one packet of KODAK MICRODOL-X Developer (size to make one U.S. gallon—CAT No. 196 9724) with sufficient stirring to keep the chemicals suspended.
  3. Add 24 grams of photographic grade Sodium Carbonate, monohydrate.
  4. Mix until the components are dissolved.
  5. Add water to bring the solution volume to 3.0 U.S. quarts (2.84 litres).
  6. Mix until the solution is uniform.
The mixed replenishing solution should be stored in full tightly capped bottles until used. In partly full, tightly stoppered bottles, a storage life of about two months would be expected.
A starting point replenishment rate of 30 mL per roll of 135-36 exposure film (or equivalent) is suggested.
Click to expand...
 
Hey Cosmonaut,
Thank you for that. I'm about so order more stuff from B&H later this afternoon, so I'll throw on another gallon of Microdol-X. Already have Sodium Carbonate from Photographer's Formulary - a 5 LB tub :rolleyes:

I'd imagine if broken down into smaller, tightly-sealed containers, the homebrewed Microdol-X Replenisher should last a good deal more than two months. I think Kodak is being their usual conservative selves here. I distinctly recall that seasoned, replenished Microdol-X can last a -good long- time, at least a year, easily.

-Microdol-X should be -great- with XX :D:D:D
 
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I took a few rolls of XX for a swim in Fuji Microfine last night.. hoping to get them scanned tomorrow-ish, but a cursory glance with the loupe reveals a bit of a mushy look to the negs. I don't have any prior experience with soft-working Metol-based developers, so i didn't really know what to expect. But, we shall soon see - i'll update when i can!

Oh, and Dan, thanks for the kind words! To answer your question, i don't believe that there's a SPD replenisher available, or at least i've never seen one.

--c--
 
The Microdol-X should work fine with the XX, though you might have to drop the speed a bit. I find that with Microdol I only got about 250 asa with Tri X and extrapolating from that, one can expect about 160 asa with XX, maybe even 200 asa.
The MQ developer gives a bit "mushier" grain than the surface type like Beutler and Rodinal. The volume of Sodium Sulphite is the cause. The Adox formula uses less SS and that tend to "sharpen" the grain somewhat, as does the PCK formula.
The Td 201 gives a nice balance between grain and sharpness and even after 30 rolls it still holds up. Last batch I did with it (Tri X) I found that it needed about 20-25% more time in the B bath after 30 rolls. If I finish of the rolls in the 3 cameras today, I can do another run (would be run 7= 35 rolls. I will do it 3min A/3 min B) and see if it needs the "push"!
Just got the last 20lbs of chemicals today so I am set for a while in the "soup" kitchen. Just have to find a good filtration system to. Light room has a decent spotting system, but for "real" prints it is still Spot-Tone and a fine brush!
 
Here's some info on Fuji Developers I found while google-ing:


"Microfine is a ultrafine grained developer supplied in dry powder package. This formula somewhat resembles a cross of D-25 and Microdol. The developing agent is metol (3-7%). The solution contains a large amount of sodium sulfite (70-90%), some sodium chloride (7-15%), and a small amount of sodium phosphate monobasic (0.5-1.5%) to make the solution pH very weakly alkaline."

"Super Prodol (SPD) is a rapid processing, push process developer provided in dry powder package. The developing agent listed is hydroquinone (3.9%) which is probably augmented with phenidone or its derivative. The developer contains 70-90% of sodium sulfite, and buffered with metaboric acid (3.4%) and sodium carbonate (3-7%). This formula resembles Crawley's FX-37. This developer is likely to contain bromide restrainer or possibly other antifoggant."

I -like- Paterson Acutol (still have four plastic bottle of it) same as Crawley's FX37. So Super Prodol is similar. Good Deal w/XX !

Laboratory Filter Paper Circles I just purchased here:

http://www.homeschoolingsupply.com/united-scientific/science-equipment-f-fpr180.htm
 
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