Shooting Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

Great results, Tom. Since there's full sun, I'm assuming you must have traveled -- that can't be Vancouver! :D
 
Ok, we do have these brief moments of sun. Everybody rushes out and does Sunny f16 stuff. Just put in an order for 4x400 ft of ORWO's UN 54 (100 iso) - which should pretty well guarantee a truly crappy summer.
Today we had sun - AND 50 km/h wind. I dont know what we did to Mother nature lately - but she sure is pissed off.
 
6839956416_9b6110c105_z.jpg


I have been extending the time in the Pyrocat HD up to 15 min (10 sec agitation every 60 sec). Does not seem to hurt it all! Tonality holds well and grain is good.
Pyrocat is virtually impossible to overdevelop with. I might do some longer time 16 to 18 min and see what the result is.
XX rated at 320, M2 and Ultron 35f1.7.
 
I have eight exposed rolls of 5222 loaded in my old Honeywell Nikor metal tank. I have some ADOX Borax MQ mixed up, which I have not used much, and that was over six months ago. I am thinking I will dump it and mix some fresh. My darkroom is in the basement of my home, and it has been very cold down there! As it warms up with spring almost here, time to get busy on my developing backlog.

I also have several packets of the Legacy Microdol-X gallon size(from Freestyle), I will also be mixing one of those up. When I get through some of the more important backlog (with the ADOX) I will experiment with 5222 and straight (replenished) Microdol-X. I'm thinking of starting with fifteen-sixteen minutes at 20C. It has a pretty long developing time. I will probably just try a few rolls in a two-reel tank, to be sure I'm getting enough development. Then I've got plenty of replenisher already mixed up, ready to use. And I also need to mix up a fresh gallon of fixer.
 
It is nice with the potential for spring and nice weather. The 5222 is trying to get out if's cans and into the sun and warmth.
I haven't tried the XX for quite some time with the Microdol X - always found that it needed at least 1/2 to 3/4 stop more xposure. Might do it later this spring - still have enough Pyrocat HD left for 100 rolls and I am determined to use it up!
I am also procrastinating - I need to load up another 1200 ft of XX in IXMOO's. Mainly to make room for the 1600 ft of ORWO UN 54 in the freezer.
 
I've got 400 ft of XX to shoot over the summer. What developer do you guys recommend. Keeping in Mind I like to shoot at medium speed (250-400), and I'm not a chemist. Meaning I want to buy developer off the shelf. Not make one out of component parts.
I've shot a fair amount of of this film already. Always at 250 and souped in D76 (1:1). I've been happy with the results, but if there is something better I'm always interested.

I've also got about a hundred feet of
Panatomic X. If there's a developer that works good for both that would be a bonus.
 
Hi Travis,

The Willi Beutler Leica Developer is good with XX and FX. Bit more grain but -extreme- sharpness and acutance. And it's not an expensive developer- The components are not exotic. I remember reading somewhere that Beutler (who worked for Leitz) wanted a developer to maximize the sharpness of Leica glass. Thusly he created his own formula.

Beutler High Acutance Film Developer is a compensating developer that gives excellent sharpness, medium grain, and low contrast. With 200 ASA and slower film a high degree of enlargement is possible. Compensation and lower contrast is achieved because more bromide is released in the highlights than in the shadows. The excess bromide in the highlights slows their development relative to the shadow areas where development continues and brings out fine details. The net effect is an increase in shadow detail, and a decrease in the overall contrast of the negative. A Mackie Line is a fine black line around the highlights. These fine lines result from bromide spreading around the highlight. At the edge of the highlight, the concentration of bromide on the shadow side of the edge causes abnormal restrainment. Consequently, the edge of the highlight becomes very well refined. This metol based developer is very economical.

Beutler High Acutance Film Developer (Neofin Blue Formula)

Solution A
375ml Water (120 degrees F)
5 g Metol
25g Sodium Sulphite
Water to make 500ml

Solution B
375 ml Water (120 degrees F)
25g Sodium Carbonate
Water to make 500ml


That's what I'm going to try with my FX. A real classic retro combo.
See link below, for ready-to-mix:

http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-39/Formulary-Buetler-(Neofin-Blue)/Detail.bok




Travis L. said:
I've got 400 ft of XX to shoot over the summer. What developer do you guys recommend. Keeping in Mind I like to shoot at medium speed (250-400), and I'm not a chemist. Meaning I want to buy developer off the shelf. Not make one out of component parts.
I've shot a fair amount of of this film already. Always at 250 and souped in D76 (1:1). I've been happy with the results, but if there is something better I'm always interested.

I've also got about a hundred feet of
Panatomic X. If there's a developer that works good for both that would be a bonus.
Click to expand...
 
4037831965_a6f3fe2191_z.jpg


Double X in Beutler 1:1:8 for 10 minutes. It is a good developer, grain is a bit pronounced - but it works very well when the image has a lot of details in it. For scenic shots I find that sky tones get a bit too grainy.
With Panatomic X I would run a test roll, rate the film from 25/50 and 80 iso, run it in the Beutler 1:1:10 for 7-7.5 minutes.
Beutler is a bit "agitation" sensitive. I usually do 30 seconds initially and then 3 flips every 60 seconds. Too much agitation can punch up the contrast dramatically.
M2 and 40f1.4 MC Nokton.
 
6997800213_b28fcddd4c_z.jpg


Just got four 400 ft cans of ORWO UN 54 from George at "orwona". Now comes the rather tedious effort to load some cassettes with it. Just waiting for some sun to appear too.
Sorry about the color shot - quick digital snap by Tuulikki.
 
Chris, I still have about 6800 ft of Double X in the freezer so that will do for "faster" film. The ORWO 54 is my substitute for Kodak's now defunct EK 5231 (+X). All I need now is some sunshine and warm weather for the 100 iso!
 
I also have a fresh bottle of HC-110 I picked up recently. What is the opinion of the group, I need a good starting time and dilution info, using the straight syrup from the bottle. How does the HC-110 compare to using the ADOX Borax MQ? Also I would like a fairly long development time (10 minutes or more would be great), since I am using an eight-reel Nikor metal tank, and I'm very concerned about getting even development with short processing times. How about the "H" dilution or something similar?

Thanks!
-Dan
 
6800 ft. of Double-X!

6800 ft. of Double-X!

Tom A said:
Chris, I still have about 6800 ft of Double X in the freezer so that will do for "faster" film. The ORWO 54 is my substitute for Kodak's now defunct EK 5231 (+X). All I need now is some sunshine and warm weather for the 100 iso!
Click to expand...

Tom,
Where to you find the time to shoot that much film as well as develop it? ;) I can barely manage ~600 ft if I have a busy travel year.

I'm interested in how you like UN54 after you've used it a while. I really miss my 5231.

Glenn
 
Times for Double-X in HC-110

Times for Double-X in HC-110

Nokton48 said:
I also have a fresh bottle of HC-110 I picked up recently. What is the opinion of the group, I need a good starting time and dilution info, using the straight syrup from the bottle. How does the HC-110 compare to using the ADOX Borax MQ? Also I would like a fairly long development time (10 minutes or more would be great), since I am using an eight-reel Nikor metal tank, and I'm very concerned about getting even development and short processing times. How about the "H" dilution or something similar?

Thanks!
-Dan
Click to expand...

Dan,
I've been using HC-110 dil. H with Double-X for 11.5 min at 20C. You can mix dil. H directly from the American concentrate by dividing your tank volume by 64 and using that volume of concentrate and adding water to make your tank volume.

For example:

My tank is 650 ml.

650/64 = 10.2

Use 10.2 ml of concentrate and dilute with water to 650 ml.

Glenn
 
Thanks Glenn. Great info.

Scandium said:
Dan,
I've been using HC-110 dil. H with Double-X for 11.5 min at 20C. You can mix dil. H directly from the American concentrate by dividing your tank volume by 64 and using that volume of concentrate and adding water to make your tank volume.

For example:

My tank is 650 ml.

650/64 = 10.2

Use 10.2 ml of concentrate and dilute with water to 650 ml.

Glenn
Click to expand...
 
Scandium said:
Tom,
Where to you find the time to shoot that much film as well as develop it? ;) I can barely manage ~600 ft if I have a busy travel year.

I'm interested in how you like UN54 after you've used it a while. I really miss my 5231.

Glenn
Click to expand...

Glenn, I will always find time to shoot a roll or two. It is a bit obsessive - of course.
Not having a "regular" job also helps. When the sun shines, everything else gets put aside. I am also old enough to be considered "senior" -i.e geezer and pretty much can do with my time what I want. It is a luxury - no doubt about that.
Of course testing film and developer also encourages forays out in the city. Now it will be the UN 54 that compels to battle rain and sleet for some shots.
Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom