Skiff
Well-known
Carlo, there is an even better option: Adox CHS 100 II.
I've compared UN54 and Adox CHS 100 II side by side:
- spectral sensivity and tonality are almost identical
- fineness of grain is on a comparable level
- but CHS 100 is sharper and has better resolving power; probably due to the fact that is has an additional AHU layer
- the Adox works also excellent as slide film
- CHS 100 II is already finished as 135 format photo film, therefore no hassle with cutting and respooling the film.
SyPat
Established
CHS 100 has higher contrast but I'm not sure that resolution is better.
In my opinion, UN54 is better than CHS 100 for highlight and shadow preservation.
In my opinion, UN54 is better than CHS 100 for highlight and shadow preservation.
jkjod
Well-known
I got an old Durst D2 enlarger for Christmas this year and along with it came some Microdol-X. I have seen a few images on here using the developer with the 5222. I am currently using D-76 as my only developer. I have a couple of questions - 1) will this (seemingly) fairly old developer still work? It is in an unopened package, BTW. And 2) will there be any benefit to the Microdol-X over the D-76. Also, any idea on development time with the Microdol?
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Jordan, glad to see someone reinvigorated this thread. Congrats on the Durst D2 enlarger, that's very cool.
Never used the Microdol-X but in the last month I did discover that 100:1 Rodinal at 68ºF for 10 minutes after a two minute pre-soak came out with really nice results. I still find Double X to be too grainy for most of my work, but it sure is convenient to process in a one shot like Rodinal.
Best,
-Tim
Never used the Microdol-X but in the last month I did discover that 100:1 Rodinal at 68ºF for 10 minutes after a two minute pre-soak came out with really nice results. I still find Double X to be too grainy for most of my work, but it sure is convenient to process in a one shot like Rodinal.
Best,
-Tim
Mark C
Well-known
If it is in an undamaged can, it is very likely fine. You say "package", so I'm guessing it is a foil pack and those are iffier in my experience. Most developers will look brown in the the powder form when they've gone off.
I like messing with developers, but don't see much point in that combination. Finer grain and less speed depending on dilution.
I like messing with developers, but don't see much point in that combination. Finer grain and less speed depending on dilution.
Travis L.
Registered Userino
I'm shooting a few rolls at @1600. Your results are pretty amazing!
Did you use D76 straight? What was your agitation schedule?
jkjod
Well-known
The Durst is a lot of fun - I have spent a couple of days printing on it and I really, really like the results. Having the negatives in your hand is one thing, but to see a print come out is very rewarding.
I was thinking of trying some Rodinal, so thanks Tim. I remember in the past on here that it was mentioned that D-76/Td-201/ID-11 and the like were the "ideal" developers. Any one ever try XTOL? The most recent poll has people either one way or completely the other on the results.
Travis - It was D-76 1:1. I'm pretty sure I agitated with the little twirler in the Patterson tanks 6 times every 2 minutes. Check my blog, it has some more examples I think. I liked what I was getting at 800 a lot better, so in the future I'm going to stick with 800 if I want to push that much.
I was thinking of trying some Rodinal, so thanks Tim. I remember in the past on here that it was mentioned that D-76/Td-201/ID-11 and the like were the "ideal" developers. Any one ever try XTOL? The most recent poll has people either one way or completely the other on the results.
Travis - It was D-76 1:1. I'm pretty sure I agitated with the little twirler in the Patterson tanks 6 times every 2 minutes. Check my blog, it has some more examples I think. I liked what I was getting at 800 a lot better, so in the future I'm going to stick with 800 if I want to push that much.
Nokton48
Veteran
I've ran XX in Microdol-X (straight) and I like the results. Best in high contrast light, but good elsewhere, too. I have a big backlog of XX film to develop, so I need to get crackin' on running it. Most likely the Microdol is fine; I would suggest creating a test roll, it's worth trying.
I have a restored/rebuilt D2 Omega enlarger and I love it. Make sure yours is aligned properly, but it sounds like you already know it's in good shape.
I process Tri-X and XX together in the same tank, so, try Microdol-X stock for ten minutes at 68F as a start. Emulsion speed tends to drop a bit in this developer (so a bit of extra exposure may be called for), but I love it's tonality.
I have a restored/rebuilt D2 Omega enlarger and I love it. Make sure yours is aligned properly, but it sounds like you already know it's in good shape.
I process Tri-X and XX together in the same tank, so, try Microdol-X stock for ten minutes at 68F as a start. Emulsion speed tends to drop a bit in this developer (so a bit of extra exposure may be called for), but I love it's tonality.
jkjod
Well-known
Thanks for the advice, I have a roll that I was doing some experimenting with (in a Bronica SQ-Ai and a 135 adapter, another story for sure) so I may see how the microdol works on it. I won't be too unhappy if something isn't perfect with it for sure.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Using Double X with D96 - which was Kodak's recommended developer for the film. Here D96 8 min with a M6 and a Canon 50mm f1.4
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
Hello everyone
I'm about to develop my first several rolls of 5222 in HC-110 in dilution B. I've shot at several EI and am having trouble finding development times.
I understand the film has an exposure index of 250 for daylight. The Massive Chart says for dilution B (20C) 6min for ISO 250. I am rarely very precise on times but I would like to find good starting points for various EI. So, following the push conversion chart, would I be approximately right in believing that I could develop like this?
EI 800 (1,6 stop): 10,5min
EI 1000 (2 stop): 12min
EI 3200 (3,6 stop): umm, 35min (x7 approx)?
Btw, I don't expect to see much on the EI 3200 rolls... I also have Diafine but haven't mixed it yet - would that be a better developer?
Thanks v much in advance for any thoughts.
Philip
I'm about to develop my first several rolls of 5222 in HC-110 in dilution B. I've shot at several EI and am having trouble finding development times.
I understand the film has an exposure index of 250 for daylight. The Massive Chart says for dilution B (20C) 6min for ISO 250. I am rarely very precise on times but I would like to find good starting points for various EI. So, following the push conversion chart, would I be approximately right in believing that I could develop like this?
EI 800 (1,6 stop): 10,5min
EI 1000 (2 stop): 12min
EI 3200 (3,6 stop): umm, 35min (x7 approx)?
Btw, I don't expect to see much on the EI 3200 rolls... I also have Diafine but haven't mixed it yet - would that be a better developer?
Thanks v much in advance for any thoughts.
Philip
pschauss
Well-known
I get great results with Diafine and Double-X rated at 650.
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
Thanks. I'll have to mix up my Diafine and begin using it.
In the meantime, I've found this filmdev recipe, EI 1600 20min (20C) in dilution B. So perhaps my math in the above post isn't too off after all.
br
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alistair.o
Well-known
UN54 is iso 100 only. Their N74+ you can expose like Double X 5222 between iso 200-800(1600).
The film is ready made sold under Bergger BRF400+ and just a quick test:
Elmarit 21mm. Souped in HC-110 dil.B 8:30 minutes (20C) a bit different then the official (Bergger) website for this BRF400 plus 35mm film.
Just a word of encouragement - I look forward to and enjoy your posts. Your knowledge is so very useful.
Keep posting please.
dave lackey
Veteran
Using Double X with D96 - which was Kodak's recommended developer for the film. Here D96 8 min with a M6 and a Canon 50mm f1.4
Hi, Tom,
How are you these days? Good to see your posts on XX... maybe you can help me. I am absolutely loving XX but with life as it has been, I was not able to shoot much the last two years and developing has been very hard to accomplish although I was successful with a few rolls.
Assuming I am able to physically develop my own XX soon, I am interested in something besides D76. Powder is not much fun when mixing developer so I am taking of liquid developer, etc. Is D96 a powder or liquid?
It is time for me to buy new chemicals all around so I would appreciate your excellent recommendations on which ones to buy keeping in mind my newbie limitations and questionable state of mind!
K. I. S. S. (Keep It Simple works for me!)
dave lackey
Veteran
Oh, by the way, great images posted on this thread by all and I can't thank you enough for the enlightenment provided!
Nokton48
Veteran
Hey Dave,
Very glad to hear you are enjoying the XX I sent you
HC-110 is very tolerant and a good choice for easy XX use.
And a bottle lasts forever, for like years and years and years.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Dave, both Rodinal and HC 110 works fine with XX, though grain gets a bit aggressive. The film seems to prefer MQ type developers like D76/D96/Adox MQ. Yes, they are powder developers but you mix it up in sufficient volume (my 2000 ml) and mix a replenisher. This will give you around 40-50 rolls without having to deal with the powders again.
As for which chemistry to stock, get your copy of "The Film Developing Cookbook" by Anchell/Troop and make a list what you will need. Buy bulk - powdered chemicals last a long time and it is much cheaper in alb and 5 lb bulk for basic stuff. A pound of Metol last me several years. Sodium Sulphite is the most used in the MQ so get at least 10lbs of it. Stuff like Borax you can get in the grocery store "20 Mule Team Borax" works fine.
Good luck and have fun
Tom
As for which chemistry to stock, get your copy of "The Film Developing Cookbook" by Anchell/Troop and make a list what you will need. Buy bulk - powdered chemicals last a long time and it is much cheaper in alb and 5 lb bulk for basic stuff. A pound of Metol last me several years. Sodium Sulphite is the most used in the MQ so get at least 10lbs of it. Stuff like Borax you can get in the grocery store "20 Mule Team Borax" works fine.
Good luck and have fun
Tom
dave lackey
Veteran
Hey Dave,
Very glad to hear you are enjoying the XX I sent you
HC-110 is very tolerant and a good choice for easy XX use.
And a bottle lasts forever, for like years and years and years.
Hey!! Yes, the results from XX are perfect! I have a couple of rolls left that I would prefer to develop myself but now that I am shooting again, I may just take it to my buddy's lab for developing.
But, I want to buy a bulk roll and split with someone. Getting cassettes is another nut to crack but at least it will be an real educational experience. If things continue to improve around here, I see myself seriously involved in my own processing soon.
Thank you for opening the door for me to enter!!! I love XX!
;-))
dave lackey
Veteran
Ok, time to roll my own... Comes a time.
It is time to bulk up!
Two questions:
1. Where is the best place to buy a 400' roll of 5222 film?
2. I have a photo tent but what else do I need to roll my own and where do I get it?
If I can get that far, then I will have a lot of questions later! Hope you don't mind basic questions that may seem silly to those of you who are quite experienced with this sort of thing.
It is time to bulk up!
Two questions:
1. Where is the best place to buy a 400' roll of 5222 film?
2. I have a photo tent but what else do I need to roll my own and where do I get it?
If I can get that far, then I will have a lot of questions later! Hope you don't mind basic questions that may seem silly to those of you who are quite experienced with this sort of thing.