Shooting Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

I picked up a 100' roll of Eastman Plus-X (5231) from Photowarehouse. Here is a sample rated at 80 and developed in Diafine. Negatives were so dense that I exposed the 5x7 prints at 30 seconds. Here is a sample.
 

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gbealnz said:
Thank you Chris, and Nokton48.
I have looked into HC110, and this looks too hard, it is a liquid, and posting it to me is just too hard, believe me I've tried.
Maybe I will just try Rodinal and see, can't hurt.
Thanks to both of you.
Gary
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Gary, you could try asking a friend/relative to bring one or two for you when they visit/ return from USA, UK, Germany, etc. I do that all the time.

Alternatively, you can make your next big purchase from MacoDirect, or, Fotoimpex. Their prices after delivery cost isn't that bad.
 
Wow!!! I have been busy... somehow I did not notice I need to order some more 5222 film!

I love the FPP site!

I just ordered a canvas for a gift to Emory so I have to wait awhile... But when I do order, it will be Christmas in June for me!

My current documentary has confirmed the results of shooting 5222 film and it is all I shoot now ...with Acros 100.
 
dave lackey said:
Anyone with a recommendation of their films to produce "film noir" images?
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Dave,

Stumbled across to see this unanswered. I'm no cine guy, but I think film noir was more a lighting effect than it was a specific film. They would put complex masks on the lights (from memory, a "cukaloris", 'cuke'). If your current film gives you a deep rich black that you like the next step might be Wikipedia or your local lending library's film history selection.

hth,
s-a
 
semi-ambivalent said:
Dave,

Stumbled across to see this unanswered. I'm no cine guy, but I think film noir was more a lighting effect than it was a specific film. They would put complex masks on the lights (from memory, a "cukaloris", 'cuke'). If your current film gives you a deep rich black that you like the next step might be Wikipedia or your local lending library's film history selection.

hth,
s-a
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Yes, thanks, amazing how threads languish at times.
Lighting is certainly key and I am not sure how I want to handle it with XX... I suppose if I find some time in the coming weeks with no therapies scheduled, I may be able to experiment.

I shoot only XX and Acros now. But maybe I will get some more Tmax 100 again.

Double X in D76 for me!
 
Haven't posted for a while, but still shooting :)

All M2, 35 Summilux ASPH pre-FLE, D-76, EI 400, 14 mins @20C. Just got a Pakon f135 and trying to get scans that I'm happy with. I used to scan with a Plustek 7600i, those scans were beautiful...but it took a very, very long time to scan an entire roll of film - let alone scanning multiple rolls which seems like took several hours. Paton is much, much faster for sure. As I said, just trying to get scans I'm as happy with as the I was with the Plustek. Growing pains with a scanner are harder than new films for sure.

roll43.00021.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

roll43.00020.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

roll42.00009.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
 
Everything went wrong that could go wrong...

Everything went wrong that could go wrong...

So, I developed my first roll of Double-X yesterday. Man, everything went wrong that could have gone wrong!

Anyway, while I was looking at the film can before developing, the top popped off! So, I immediately turned the lights out and hid the role in the drawer. Got the scissors, got it into the developing tank, then poured in the developer only to find that HC-110 does not mix well by itself... Grabbed a spoon and extra water mixed... Poured the rest in.

Finally, ended up developing for 7 minutes (1+7) for a roll shot at EI 320. Continual agitation first 30 seconds, each following minute 10 seconds of agitation. The negatives are definitely overdeveloped and slightly overexposed (I am guessing.)

My observations...

Double-X is by far the easiest film to load into the reel. The substrate is really strong. I liked the grain structure with HC-110 quite a bit. Now I need to dial in my exposure and development processes. Finally, the quality of the closing of the film cannister is critical with these pre-loaded third party canned films.

Below the last picture from the roll.
 

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Still figuring out the Pakon, but I think I've tinkered with them enough to get to a point where I don't want to throw it out a window. Now I just need to get a dedicated Windows XP machine to keep it up and running.

Still M2, 35 Summilux ASPH (pre-FLE), EI 400, D-76 1+1, 14 minutes

roll45.00018.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

roll44.00018.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

roll45.00014.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr

roll45.00023.jpg by jkjod, on Flickr
 
JPSuisse said:
So, I developed my first roll of Double-X yesterday. Man, everything went wrong that could have gone wrong!

Anyway, while I was looking at the film can before developing, the top popped off! So, I immediately turned the lights out and hid the role in the drawer. Got the scissors, got it into the developing tank, then poured in the developer only to find that HC-110 does not mix well by itself... Grabbed a spoon and extra water mixed... Poured the rest in.

Finally, ended up developing for 7 minutes (1+7) for a roll shot at EI 320. Continual agitation first 30 seconds, each following minute 10 seconds of agitation. The negatives are definitely overdeveloped and slightly overexposed (I am guessing.)

My observations...

Double-X is by far the easiest film to load into the reel. The substrate is really strong. I liked the grain structure with HC-110 quite a bit. Now I need to dial in my exposure and development processes. Finally, the quality of the closing of the film cannister is critical with these pre-loaded third party canned films.

Below the last picture from the roll.
Click to expand...

I've had problems with Kodak Snap Caps popping open in the field.
Just be extra careful and DON'T DROP THEM and you will be ok.
 
Always careful with the Snap-Caps cause that's happened to me before. Now I keep them in old leftover AgfaPan 100 canisters (solid black plastic can and top) when carrying them around in the field.

Mutt.jpg

M3 w/5cm Nikkor SC Tokyo, Double-X in D-76

Best,
-Tim
 
I'm surprised with how well 5222 handles difficult lighting situations. Used a yellow filter on Saturday when covering the 20th Annual Dyke March here in Chicago.

DOB-2.jpg

M3 w/5cm Nikkor SC Tokyo, Double-X in HC-110

Best,
-Tim
 
Hi all, for the Aus/Nz shooters who might be interested in Double X. I contacted Kodak Aus at the end of last year asking about buying a 400' roll of 5222. They replied very promptly once my message found the right department and said it was no problem at all. There was a two week wait for the film to come from the US. Price inc postage was reasonable. I haven't gone through with an order yet but I intend to sometime this year. Let me know if you'd like the contact details I used.

Cheers.
 
You take a 400' or 1000' roll into total darkness and spool it into a 100' length. I have a formica work table in my darkroom that I use for this purpose. I use Fuji or Kodak spools from 100' rolls of their bulk film. Best is the Kodak, which is a metal spool, enclosed and light-sealed. I then put the loaded 100' roll into a 35mm Bulk loader, like a Watson, I have four or five of them around.

001 by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
Hi all, this is my first post here. I recently made the switch from SLR to RF and settled on the tried-and-tested M3 + Elmar-M 5cm f3.5 combo. The M3 seems to be a beautiful camera, but I'm almost wishing I went with an M2 as I'm having trouble seeing the 50mm frame lines with my glasses.

I intend on shooting Eastman Double-X with this setup. Tom - I have read some of your posts and understand you also shoot an Elmar-M 5/3.5 with this film. I would love to see some photos you have taken with this combination.

So far I have purchased Double-X pre-loaded from Camera Film Photo in HK. I liked the results but found it to be a little too high in contrast and grainy for my liking. This was probably due to the fact that I pushed the film to ~400 with Rodinal 1:50. Results with ID-11 1:1 were smoother, had better tonality and less grain. I've read the Elmar 5/3.5 is a rather low-contrast lens so I am interested to try the 400ASA + Rodinal 1:50 combination once again.

I invested in an ITOOY hood for the Elmar. Would I also need a yellow filter for outdoor shooting?

Best,
R

SuTxUP3.jpg
 
Nokton48 said:
You take a 400' or 1000' roll into total darkness and spool it into a 100' length. I have a formica work table in my darkroom that I use for this purpose. I use Fuji or Kodak spools from 100' rolls of their bulk film. Best is the Kodak, which is a metal spool, enclosed and light-sealed. I then put the loaded 100' roll into a 35mm Bulk loader, like a Watson, I have four or five of them around.

001 by Nokton48, on Flickr
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I've got a 400' roll heading my way and im looking for some of those metal 100' spools. Do you have any idea where I can find them without film on them?
 
imnewhere said:
I liked the results but found it to be a little too high in contrast and grainy for my liking. This was probably due to the fact that I pushed the film to ~400 with Rodinal 1:50. Results with ID-11 1:1 were smoother, had better tonality and less grain. I've read the Elmar 5/3.5 is a rather low-contrast lens so I am interested to try the 400ASA + Rodinal 1:50 combination once again.
Click to expand...

R,

I've found the grain you get when processing Double XX in Rodinal to be excessive. Processing it in HC-110 has been working very well for me. I too am shooting with lower contrast vintage glass, and really like the way the Double XX handles it.
 
Satisfied Fool said:
I've got a 400' roll heading my way and im looking for some of those metal 100' spools. Do you have any idea where I can find them without film on them?
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The metal 100' spools are getting harder to come by. Not sure if anyone is still making them (possibly Fuji). I found mine on the auction site, but you usually have to buy them with film on them. The three I have all came with long expired Fuji color motion picture film, which I discarded.

Look for auctions like the one below:

Spool.jpg


This auction had three cans w/spools listed this afternoon, but when I checked back, they were all gone. But they do show up from time to time.
 
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