louisb
Well-known
A few weeks back I submitted a post where I was asking for help concerning the issue that sometimes when I wind on my shutter release will not fire. There were no conclusive answers to the problem.
Well, yesterday I figured out why and can consistently reproduce the event.
I confess: I chimp a lot. Can't help it. I worked out yesterday that when you have the screen activated, the first time I press the shutter release it appears to turn the screen off and does not fire, then the second time the shutter actually fires.
Or to put it another way, if you turn the screen off by pressing the screen button, or if you don't chimp at all, then the shutter always fires.
I'm only posting this in case someone else has the same issue or in the future someone also suffers the same issue.
LouisB
Well, yesterday I figured out why and can consistently reproduce the event.
I confess: I chimp a lot. Can't help it. I worked out yesterday that when you have the screen activated, the first time I press the shutter release it appears to turn the screen off and does not fire, then the second time the shutter actually fires.
Or to put it another way, if you turn the screen off by pressing the screen button, or if you don't chimp at all, then the shutter always fires.
I'm only posting this in case someone else has the same issue or in the future someone also suffers the same issue.
LouisB
Gid
Well-known
This was a common problem prior to the release of version 2 firmware. What firmware version is on your R-D1?
louisb
Well-known
Gid said:
OK, I did not realise that and no one pointed it when I last pointed out the problem. From the look of the functionality I wonder whether it is a feature rather than a fault, e.g. a way to ensure that the battery is not excessively drained.
I don't know which version of firmware I have but in another post I pointed out that as my 'user' button no longer works I can't upgrade my software.
LouisB
garethc
Established
louisb said:
Is there no way around that?
louisb
Well-known
garethc said:
Gareth, apparently not. In fact the last time I asked the question I was roundly abused by a member who thought I had not read the manual. The button does not operate and therefore I cannot initialise the firmware load process.
LouisB
RichC
Well-known
It is a "feature" in the original R-D1 firmware, unfortunately.
Sean Reid wrote about it extensively, and as he was close to Epson management, I suspect that it was his influence that helped change this behaviour in the second version of the firmware and in the R-D1s.
Louis - the way the shutter button functions with the v.2 firmware is that a single push turns off the LCD as before but, now, the button will fire the shutter if pressed all the way down, unlike before where the shutter was locked unless the button was released and pressed again.
Applying Occam's razor, the reason for the user-assigned button not working is probably straightforward - if you're brave enough to dismantle the LCD casing, it may be fixable at home!
Sean Reid wrote about it extensively, and as he was close to Epson management, I suspect that it was his influence that helped change this behaviour in the second version of the firmware and in the R-D1s.
Louis - the way the shutter button functions with the v.2 firmware is that a single push turns off the LCD as before but, now, the button will fire the shutter if pressed all the way down, unlike before where the shutter was locked unless the button was released and pressed again.
Applying Occam's razor, the reason for the user-assigned button not working is probably straightforward - if you're brave enough to dismantle the LCD casing, it may be fixable at home!
louisb
Well-known
RichC said:
Rich, I should have asked you in the first place!
I have made an attempt to get into the LCD casing but gave up as I was unsure how to (a) split it apart and (b) whether I would need to actually sever and reconnect the wiring between the panel and the camera.
I am off out to Maplin to get some isopropynal spray in an attempt to see if it is purely oxidisation. What I have always found strange is why a single button, rather than the entire set of buttons would have failed.
It is so annoying because I love this camera but I am worried that it is only the thin end of the wedge before something major goes on it.
Thanks for your interest
LouisB
RichC
Well-known
Louis - if you're stuck with the v.1 firmware, it appears to use a lot less power than v.2, so it's not all bad!
The v.2 changes are nice to have, esp. the hot pixel mapping, but the v.1 firmware is good enough - even if the v.2 firmware hadn't materialised, I'd still have been very happy with my R-D1.
Regarding the button, I suspect it's not the thin end of the wedge, and whatever's wrong affects just that button. I suspect that under the button, it's mechanism is one of two types:
1. Silicone rubber with conductive material (e.g. carbon) moulded in.
2. Membrane type with dome-shaped metal "click" contacts.
My gut instinct (and Occam) tells me that the switch isn't making contact when pushed - possibly dirt, possibly a manufacturing fault.
If the switch isn't at fault, applying Occam's razor again, the copper track to or from the switch on the internal printed circuit board has a break - which can be fixed with a little solder.
I think that you'll need to remove the entire back of the camera to get the LCD cover off - see the dismantled R-D1 on my website (http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/images/stripdown/r-d1_strip_10.jpg). See also the exploded view PDF file, at http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_links.htm
The v.2 changes are nice to have, esp. the hot pixel mapping, but the v.1 firmware is good enough - even if the v.2 firmware hadn't materialised, I'd still have been very happy with my R-D1.
Regarding the button, I suspect it's not the thin end of the wedge, and whatever's wrong affects just that button. I suspect that under the button, it's mechanism is one of two types:
1. Silicone rubber with conductive material (e.g. carbon) moulded in.
2. Membrane type with dome-shaped metal "click" contacts.
My gut instinct (and Occam) tells me that the switch isn't making contact when pushed - possibly dirt, possibly a manufacturing fault.
If the switch isn't at fault, applying Occam's razor again, the copper track to or from the switch on the internal printed circuit board has a break - which can be fixed with a little solder.
I think that you'll need to remove the entire back of the camera to get the LCD cover off - see the dismantled R-D1 on my website (http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/images/stripdown/r-d1_strip_10.jpg). See also the exploded view PDF file, at http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_links.htm
louisb
Well-known
Rich, thanks for the comments. I know I've said it before (here) but it is worth saying again, how much I appreciate your web site (so should Epson!).
You are right, btw, in that I have no real need to upgrade the firmware, other than the fact that I can then say it is a R-D1s (big deal).
Given the sticker-shock difference in price between the R-D1 and an M8, I expect I'll be shooting with this camera for some time yet. And in any case, the R-D1 keeps on churning out some extraordinary images, especially in low light.
In fact, I have so enjoyed getting into rangefinder photography that I am now considering buying a film body as well.
Regards
LouisB
You are right, btw, in that I have no real need to upgrade the firmware, other than the fact that I can then say it is a R-D1s (big deal).
Given the sticker-shock difference in price between the R-D1 and an M8, I expect I'll be shooting with this camera for some time yet. And in any case, the R-D1 keeps on churning out some extraordinary images, especially in low light.
In fact, I have so enjoyed getting into rangefinder photography that I am now considering buying a film body as well.
Regards
LouisB