Some M8 photos with the Jupiter 8 ltm lens

ampguy

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These are some color and b/w images with an '80s black aluminum Jupiter 8 lens. No focus tab, and the whole barrel rotates when focusing. All are at F2.

When at min. distance (~1m). I had to focus a tad in front of focal point on subject. It could probably use shimming.

Sometimes the colors are right on (some of the images had a mix of cool white ~2700K and window light, and some were all cool white with no light through the window.

The lens is most consistent with b/w, the color accuracy, at least for this sample is inconsistent, but occasionally producing a great color image, even at ISO 640.

Images are here.
 
I love the old Sonnar look. Nice photos.
I've heard a bit about the J8 and especially the J3 having focus shift due to the formulation and the aperture used.
I've seen it on my RD1 and my M8 with the J8 wide-open and at closer distances.
I've shimmed it out a bit to take care of the issue then got it focusing perfectly only to loan it to a friend, so I've not used it much since then.
The J8 is great on the cropped format cameras for portraits.
 
Thanks Phil

Thanks Phil

This J8 could probably use a shim. After some tests, I focused everything a tad in front of where I wanted to focus. They're all at F2.

I love the old Sonnar look. Nice photos.
I've heard a bit about the J8 and especially the J3 having focus shift due to the formulation and the aperture used.
I've seen it on my RD1 and my M8 with the J8 wide-open and at closer distances.
I've shimmed it out a bit to take care of the issue then got it focusing perfectly only to loan it to a friend, so I've not used it much since then.
The J8 is great on the cropped format cameras for portraits.
 
Most J-8's in LTM benefit from a 0.1mm Shim for use on a Leica. That will optimize for close-up and wide-open, and the focus shift at F4 helps with infinity. 0.1mm is the difference in throw of the focus between a Leica standard and Contax standard 5cm lens, focused from 3ft to infinity.
 
Sorry for the thread necromancy, but where do you put the shim? Inside the lens where the other shims are? Or around the threaded mount?
 
need to ask Brian S./check his web pages

need to ask Brian S./check his web pages

If you just put a temp. shim (foil, credit card cutout, etc.) between the ltm adapter and lens flange, that will allow closer focus and possibly close focus alignment, but at the expense of infinity focus.

To do it right, you need to find Brian's write-ups and do it internally. I think there is already a shim in these, so part of it is just replacement, but to get close focus AND infinity or beyond infinity (great for live view cameras), you may also need to extend the threading of the focus cell assembly.

Sorry for the thread necromancy, but where do you put the shim? Inside the lens where the other shims are? Or around the threaded mount?
 
0.1 shim. Where to buy?

0.1 shim. Where to buy?

Where can one buy a 0.1 shim? Can I go to the hardware store?
 
I doubt it

I doubt it

You'll probably have to fabricate it from foil or something a bit thicker, but you can possibly get the raw materials from a hw store. The good thing about very thin shims is you can use scissors after you make a template for it.


Where can one buy a 0.1 shim? Can I go to the hardware store?
 
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