That's out of scope
That's out of scope
What we were all sincerely trying to help the OP's question was if his lens barrel DOF markings for a given Leica lens would still work they way they did on his MP as he transitioned to his M8.
I gave my own results, based and experience with prints and enlargements between my M6 and M8 (I don't have an MP).
The plan called for same lens, same focal distance (tripod in set position). Also, no magnification in pp. I don't think of sensors in terms of crop factors, but for what they are size and quality wise. If a FF with a given lens gives some overscan, like TV's, fine, I will concentrate comparing DOF on the range that is common to both images. I made this clear up front, and it was understood by all who can read.
The whole 1.33, 1.5, 1.6, 2.0 4/3rds is internet and magazine jargon that can help you quickly compare equivalent focal lengths, but to do the math required for analyzing CoC and DOF, you need to know the size of the sensors you're working with, and you need to know what your target CoC is for that sensor.
Leica uses .023 for FF and for 27x18mm sensors. I find both old and newer Leica lenses to adhere to this equally on film and the M8.
Canon (and many other 35mm vendors) use .030 for CoC for full frame. Canon uses .023 for the CoC of it's M8 sized sensor, and .019 for its smaller APS-C 26mm diag - 1.6x crop sensors.
Others used their FF film images, and "emulated" what they thought an M8 would look like DOF-wise with photoshop, which of course is bogus, since you're making an apriori assumption that a) the film image is equal to the live view, and b) that photoshop is a virtual Leica M8 and lens
🙄
What others pointed out to the OP, were that to get equivalent hyperfocal settings with the M8, as on his MP, he would need to move the focus to one more stop wider than normal.
For me, when using hyperfocal, I already stop inwards 2 stops with FF, so what they were telling me was I needed to go 3 stops in.
That can't work if you're not >= 3 stops out from your wide open, and gives marginal rotation room, literally a degree or two max, depending on the lens.
The bottom line is that older lenses are perfectly fine on the M8, and even the RD1. I can't see any DOF differences in RD1 images magnified in print to 2ft x 3 feet compared with full frame images, and if anyone can, that would be most interesting.
My two cents:
- Normalize the angle of view. So for the M6, you'd use a 50mm lens, and for the M8, you'd use a 35mm lens. That would give a similar AOV. Or, 35mm on the M6 and 28mm on the M8.
- Use the widest aperture possible, to enhance the depth of field effect. If both lenses are capable of F/2, then use F/2.
- Photograph an object at a near distance to enhance the depth of field. Say, the distance should be 1m or so.
- The object should be something that's marked so that variations are easy to see. For example, a yardstick tilted at a 45 degree angle. If you focus on a specific point, the blur should increase gradually before and after the point of focus.
Actually, you might not see much of a difference. According to DOFmaster, the depth of field is pretty close between the M6 and M8.