Squeegee or not?

[benmacphoto]

Re-rinsing will remove the spots, but I would not let spots stay on the film long. I would think it could ruin the film if they are on it to long.

Hmm I've always used my fingers to squeegee the film after a brief dunk in Photo-Flo because that's how I was taught to do it in my photography course many years ago, but recently noticed some water spots on a roll of negatives I was scanning. I think I'll try without finger-squeegeeing next time... it's always possible to re-rinse later to remove water spots anyway, right?

 

[gudlagoba]

Tried squeegee once but got lots of scratches. Must have been a bad squeegee but I have been soaking with a few drops of Ilford wetting agent and hanging to dry.
I should try squeegee again because I have a dust problem sometimes and shorter drying time will be a plus.

 

[sienarot]

Finger-squeeg

 

[Bingley]

I drip dry, following a method I picked up on another thread dealing w/ dust and scratches: after the last rinse, put the reel in a solution w/ a wetting agent (Ilford, in my case), and meanwhile turn the shower on w/ hot water to raise the humidity (I develop in a bathroom). Raising the humidity, and even getting a little steam in the bathroom, reduces the dust (at least, that's the theory). I then take the film off the reel, hang it up, and let it dry over night. Works like a charm.

 

[nikon_sam]

From the Photo-Flo to the clothes pin hanging in the shower...I do not touch the film with anything...fingers or squeegee...I learned the hard way...

 

[imush]

Tried it a couple of times when I (re)started developing myself a couple of years ago, but then gave it up. I did have some scratches in those days, but am not sure if they come from the squeegee or just my inexperience in loading the film.

Anyway, I don't see a reason to use it unless you are impatient or otherwise in a hurry to scan/print.

 

[Benjamin]

Using some wetting agent in the last bath/wash and just leaving them well alone until they're dry has always left me with clean negatives.

I used a squeegee once, awful idea.

 

[BillBingham2]

depend on how long you wash for.

 

[sanmich]

Re-rinsing will remove the spots, but I would not let spots stay on the film long. I would think it could ruin the film if they are on it to long.

As far as I know, spots are only deposit on the base and do nothing to the film on the long run.

 

[sanmich]

I rinse,
Then leave the film in distilled water for some ten minutes at least, then add a very small amount of foto-flo (and sometimes a bit of isopropyl alcohol), and take care not to have any bubbles, and leave for a few minutes, then hang the film.

I have very few spots, and even when I have some, I just carefully clean them after the film is dry, with a clean microfiber/lens cleaning tissue and alcohol.

From what I know, the emulsion, when wet is much more delicate than when dry. I avoid as much as possible touching it before complete drying of the film.

 

[sanmich]

I should add that scratching the base is something that can be corected, while scratching the emulsion you get, well....a scratch.

 

[novum]

Thinned out PhotoFlo diluted with distilled water, just let it drip dry. Rare water spots beats the hell out of scratched emulsions. I must hasten to add that some films are more prone to having their emulsions damaged. Fomapan comes to mind. Tri-X is more robust, as are most C-41 films.

 

[sepiareverb]

I use Photowipes, no longer easy to get. They have always worked for me, never scratched a film, and by getting the bulk of the water/photo-flo off the film allow it to dry much more quickly than fingers and never with any watermarks.

They now are known as Tidi Products item #911898 (white) or 911900 (blue) 4-ply tissue towels. I cut them in half and use one per roll of film. I know most folks say I shouldn't bother, but when I've run out I get watermarks. A simple thing that makes all the difference for me.

I dilute the Photo-Flo a bit more for sheet film, which I drip dry hanging it from one corner. Same dilution on 35mm leaves marks, I'm guessing the extra length of the film concentrates the stuff as gravity does it's thing.

 

[johnastovall]

I use my fingers after a quick rinse in photoflow.

 

[visiondr]

Steam up the bathroom (takes a couple of minutes with the shower on hot) then hang photo-flo'd film in the now dust free room. No scratches, no water marks and no dust.

 

[ed1k]

Paterson squeegee didn't work for me, but Kindernmann squeegee works fine. It's a pity I didn't buy a few of them... I cannot find a good film squeegee anymore in Toronto. For scanning it is usually not needed, those small spots are below scanner resolution or may be easily photoshoped out; but I do real printing.

 

[JohnTF]

Had some problems with 220 Ilford, and switched to adding hardener to the rapid fix to toughen up the emulsion, and a rinse in distilled water, then you can wipe or not with generally good results.

The rapid fixes seem to be formulated without hardener, I suspect for better suitability with prints to be toned?

Had a new squeegee, was living in a studio, gave it up after some scratches.

Anyone use a salad spinner with the film obviously on reels?

Regards, John

 

[sniki]

Never squeegee - even with finger only - again.
Just wetting agent and drip dry.

 

[DGA]

I use to finger my negs, but occasionally I get drop marks.
I think next time I'll let the film a drip dry try.

 

[Fotohuis]

Only wetting agent in demi-water. But I hang the film first diagonally to let it dripped off from the perforation. After 5 minutes I hang it vertically with some weight.

No scratches and normally no drying marks. However if you have a clean squeegee and a sturdy film it's not impossible to use it sucessfully. In the press they did it in combination with IPA to have the film dry within 10 minutes.
But in general: Do not touch a wet film emulsion!