Benny,
First off welcome, I hope you enjoy your m6 to the fullest. It's a beautiful camera.
You've already got a lot of good answers, some may even be too good. You may be even more confused at all the great things out there to use. The bottom line is that there really is no best combination of films/developers, etc.
You'll get great results from any of the big names, like Ilford, Kodak and Fuji. You'll also get great results from any of the common developers, but some are easier to use than others.
I highly, I mean HIGHLY reccomend getting yourself a good book, as you have expressed interest in doing. I personally really like this book:
http://www.powells.com/biblio/1-0316373052-3
There are other books, and I've read a few of them here and there, but the Horenstein book is really quite good, and comprehensive. He also has a style that is quite disarming, and downright pleasant. The link I provided even shows that it's on sale for $10.98, down from $27...can't beat that with a stick!
I deduce from your words that you are somewhat new to photography, but not completely virginal in your knowledge and perceptions...there are few people in the developed world who have NEVER taken a picture at all..sometimes that's a good thing, sometimes not.
I bring that up because the m6 is a different beast...for some people it's so easy to tame, that it becomes part of them almost immediately. For others however, it's a bit of a lion taming task, because it's an intentionally very simple camera...it will do nothing for you, except for tell you how much light there is.
Be very very patient, your first few rolls may suck rotten eggs, or you may be very pleasantly surprised. Some people hit right off, some people take a lot longer. Brings to mind some other virginal activities.
Depending on where you live, and what your availability to good photo labs is (and the size of your wallet) there are several different routes you can go.
Personally, I would reccomend the path of least resistance in the early stages.
If I were you, I would buy a few rolls of C-41 black and white (the stuff that can be processed at any color lab) just to get used to the camera...it will cut down your variables significantly, and it will give you a much quicker feedback cycle than starting photography AND developing at precisely the same instant.
That may be controversial advice, but I honestly know from experience, being largely self-taught, that learning to use a camera, and developing from the beginning can get frustrating, and you may get results that make you despair, for any number of reasons. Take your time, have faith and patience, and in the end, you will progress greatly. As they say, slow and steady wins the race. Furious activity has a habit of burning people out when the results don't keep up.
In addition to your first few rolls of c-41 film, I would suggest reading that book I recommended (today I can not spell!) all the way through, in a leasurely way. Don't try to go out and emulate the experiments, don't try to do the weird and wacky solarization stuff. Just read the book on a quiet evening with a tasty beverage, just to get your feet in the water. The beauty of this book is that it's concise without being terse, and it's easy to read in a short evening.
Then, go back to page one, and teach yourself photography.
A developing tank brand new won't cost you much more than $25. Off of Ebay it will cost you $5-10. A decent thermometer (does NOT have to be marked "photo") will run less than $5, and developer, stop and fixer will run you $25. In the interests of simplicity, just go for one brand or another, you don't need to find the best of each, as many people do. I personally really like Ilford films and chemicals, that's mostly what I use. Kodak will suit you very well also. Just ask the local photo shop for what they suggest. The Horenstein book has excellent, very simple charts on how to develop for how long, and what an "agitation" means.
Once again, have patience...especially if you are alone in this, it can be a steep learning curve for some people, and for others it comes as naturally as breathing. Neither group learns more in the end. I know this from music...the prodigies often burn out very badly, and if they don't, they often lose what anybody would call creativity. If you are not a prodigy, that doesn't mean that you won't become a good photographer in a month, a year, or 10 years. Likewise if you are a prodigy, focus on what photography means to you and to others, and take it somewhere that it carries a message.
As far as films, the others have suggested some excellent stocks. Personally, I started with Delta 100 and 400. I then tried out a lot of other films, but I came back to good old Ilford because I think it is very good. Not to say that there aren't others that are better in certain aspects, I just feel that Ilford suits my needs quite well. One of these days I'm going to spring for a brick of Fuji 1600, another excellent film.
But I digress....400 speed film, for example Ilford Delta 400 is a very very flexible film. Once you learn how to develop, you will learn that you can "push" a film to increase contrast, and to some extent speed. Once you learn how to do that, you will find that Delta 400 can be pushed almost to the sky. 3200 ISO is no big deal, and I've gotten more. Delta, among all the films, is fairly fine grained, but once you get into the 1600 range, it gets a very very nice grain, for those of us that like grain. There is by the way a difference between a good film's grain and a bad film's grain....that's one of the reasons why I like Delta 400 so much. Eventually you will want to print your negatives, and it will make a big difference. Tmax is also excellent of course, etc.
I have rambled on for far too long....any stupidities in my post can be attributed to mis-firing neurons.
Good luck, and have fun!
