NOt if a $500 Fuji will do the job... 6X9
NOt if a $500 Fuji will do the job... 6X9
Would a Gaoersi 617 be easier overall and not break a bank?
First, I came to the conclusion that the Pano heads for simple end to end 2 or 3 shots are a waste of money for the stuff I want panos from.... landscape and beyond 30 feet for most part.
The problem with not revolving around the Nodal Point is over-hyped on anything but table top studio work or closeups. Furthermore, who is going to do a pano of portrait work.
I use a level atop the camera and a good tripod with my 6X9 Fuji range finder (G690bl - 100mm lens). I was advised by someone who uses this technique professionally to stay away from wide angle lenses. Since you're doing pano anyway, you get more usable images with the standard lens. The stitching provides the width. I rotate the camera per the level, and make a clear visual distinction about overlapping the frames 25%, to give the pano software plenty of identical data to stitch.
Also... I use a three way tripod head.. nothing fancy. I want rotation to be a movement of it's own after I get the camera level. I also have a tab with a level sticking out from the bottom (rotation movement). Level that as close to level with leg adjustments to insure a level rotation. So the rotation platform AND the camera will be level.
I have been very pleased with stitching 2 into 6X17 and 3 into 6X24 simply using Photoshop Elements pano and blend feature.
One thing you have to attempt to do is set up for fast action. It helps to get the images on film in a short period to avoid changes in exposure (never been a problem after doing it a couple of times).
In deference to those who think I am wrong about the need for Pano hardware, I did locate the Nodal Point on my Fuji 100mm lens. It is 6 centimeters in front of the tripod socket on my 690. So, I made a simple steel bracket which moves my camera 6CM back from the tripod mount screw. My camera now rotates under the lens Nodal Point. There is plenty of information on the internet about locating the Nodal Point (Exit Pupil), including that information published on some camera/lens combinations.
Aside from being quite satisfied with the result, I take great financial comfort in the fact that I did not spend $3-500 on needless panoramic hardware, and that I did not spend $3000 for a Pano camera and all the fittings, etc. Besides that, I don't think I ever want to try to load a roll film back that has a film gate 6 inches long... Uuuugh!!!
Let me reiterate one point again in a simpler way. In all the studying I did to decide about the Pano head..... I came to this conclusion.
If all your images are shot within15-20 feet of the camera... you probably need a fancy panoramic head. Also if you're doing architectural shooting INSIDE, perhaps.
