Switching from Leica M2 to Hexar RF

I had a Hexar RF but as soon as I handled a Leica M7 the Hexar was history. IMHO, while the aperture priority exposure Hexar RF beat the Leica M7 to market by several years the M7 is much better built, and is a more versatile and a much better camera. With an M7 you can shoot mechanically at two shutter speeds: 1/60 and 1/125. You can also choose to use a motor drive or not.

If your M7 has a problem, you can get it repaired. The Hexar? Highly unlikely.

If you're weary of your M2 and you want an M mount body with a different personality from your M2 consider a Leica M5. If you want a more modern M mount body then take a look at an M7.

Having said all of this, your mileage may vary. For goodness sake try a Hexar RF before buying one. Aside from the lens mount, it doesn't share much with any Leica M.
 
Hexar RF was the worst camera I ever owned.

I got it new and it went back and forth between me and Konica repair again and again under warranty and after warranty until I gave up and sold it on ebay, with full disclosure, at a big loss.

Among other things, RF impossible to keep aligned.

You could say I got I lemon, I say good riddance.
 
There is a lot of bullsh*t out there on the web about Hexars. The truth is there are just like any other camera. I am sure a few bad ones were made, but the vast majority are still clicking along. I have used a Hexar RF as my main camera for the last 7 years and have never had a problem with it. The damn thing has titanium covers for crying out loud. I guarantee that if you dropped a Hexar and dropped a Leica, the Hexar would still work. The Leica, probably not so much.

They are the best deal going if you want an RF. No doubt about it.
 
The CLE that David mentioned is a great option. Especially seeing you like the 40mm lenses. It comes with a 40mm frame, has AE exposure and is very small and lightweight.
Uses the Leica M mount lenses.

You can get a perfect/mint condition one for $400. Or two perfect mint condition ones, with matching Zhou half cases for $750.

CLE_zpsl7htyv70.jpg

Thanks, saved me doing a bit of typing and so on.

As for meters, I have had 1930's ones restored and 1940's ones rebalanced and still use them as part of elderly but authentic outfits.

Regards, David
 
I have a Hexar, bought from a member here, and it has been perfectly reliable for its past couple of years with me.

The unavailability of standard outer eyepieces does present a challenge. Mine has a -3 diopter, perfect for me as a nearsighted one who prefers to shoot without glasses. Yet now that I am trying to sell less-used backup camera bodies (including this Hexar) I feel obliged not only to advise potential buyers to review the Mat Alofs DIY for a replacement eyepiece and check out Jonmanjiros contribution to this thread--as well as reflect that liability in its price, so that its next owner isnt penalized for not being as nearsighted as me.
 
The Hexar RF is arguably the best film rangefinder ever made. It's built like a tank, auto film advance is very easy to live with and the option of having 1/4000 shutter speed in your armory is a big plus. While the viewfinder is not quite up to the standard of an M or an Ikon it's more than good enough. On the negative side I suspect they will be very hard to get parts for in the future.

I agree; the HexRF is a superb camera. I would also add that it beats my M7. And even though I wear (and shoot with) eyeglasses, the very bright VF/RF presents no problem.
Mine is in great condition, but, of course, the repair issue is a sword hanging over ownership.

HFL
 
I agree; the HexRF is a superb camera. I would also add that it beats my M7. And even though I wear (and shoot with) eyeglasses, the very bright VF/RF presents no problem.
Mine is in great condition, but, of course, the repair issue is a sword hanging over ownership.

HFL

I messed around with one at K&M Camera in NY yesterday and died a little inside. I wasn't expecting such a wonderful VF. I was kind of hesitant on the idea of using a x0.6 magnification, but the eye piece is larger than the M2's, which makes it rather easy to use. To add the construction feels like a solid brick, it feels like they truly engineered this body well. So, in contrast, I think I'm going to keep my M2 due to parts being available and technicians still being around for assistance. BUT as soon as I have enough disposable money I will be purchasing one. I don't want to push the idea of the Hexar RF being a good second body, as many people online try to emphasize on, because truth of the matter, if I didn't already own my M2 I would have purchased a Hexar RF first. When the Hexar RF is in my hand, the M2 will most likely be the second body.
 
I guarantee that if you dropped a Hexar and dropped a Leica, the Hexar would still work. The Leica, probably not so much.

Yeah.... don't think so.

Here's a nice little anecdote courtesy of Luminous Landscape:

https://luminous-landscape.com/leica-m6


"There are many legends about M Leicas. Here are two of mine.

Pan-American Games, Winnipeg 1967

While I subsequently shot the 1967 Pan-American games with my Nikon F and an arsenal of long lenses, during the opening ceremonies I found myself just a few feet from the dignitaries on the podium, so I used the Leicas and 35mm, 50mm and 90mm lenses.

As Prince Philip gave his welcoming speech opening the games a huge thunderstorm broke and proceeded to drench everyone in the open-air arena, me included. Some large umbrellas were quickly erected for the Prince and he continued with his remarks, but along with about 30,000 other people I got soaked.

So did my camera equipment. I couldn’t even attempt to protect my cameras, I just kept shooting throughout the torrential downpour. I changed lenses and film numerous times and just did the best I could.

As soon as the ceremonies were over I handed the film to a courier to race it to the lab and then headed back to my hotel to dry off. When I took the Leicas out of the bag they were dripping wet. Totally soaked, inside and out. I opened everything up and left the bodies and lenses on a table near an open window to dry out. I spent the rest of the day shooting with my Nikons, figuring I’d pack up the Leicas in the evening to send back to Toronto for replacement and repair.

But the next day I tried everything out and was surprised to see that they worked, and worked smoothly. I never did send send it in for repair, then or afterward. I probably put several thousand rolls of film through both Leica bodies over the next few years and never saw a hint of trouble.

Canadian DownhillSki Championships, Collingwood 1968

My assignment was to shoot skiers during this important race. The organizers provided me with a small wooden platform on the inside of a steep downhill curve and said, “Have a nice day“.

I had brought my Nikon F gear consisting of 2 bodies and several medium-tele and long lenses. At the last minute I decided to also bring the Leica M3 and 90 and 135mm lenses as well, (just in case).

The early morning went well, with the temperature at about the freezing point and with a moderate overcast. But by late morning the wind picked up and the temperature started to drop. A light snow started and with the increasing wind created blowing snow conditions that were just this side of being strong enough to stop the race.

I wish they had stopped it, because my equipment and I started to freeze up. The first Nikon froze after about 45 minutes of these deteriorating conditions and the second one some 20 minutes later. Both were caked in frozen snow. I figured that my day was done but I pulled the M3 out from the bottom of the bag and started shooting as best I could with the 135mm lens.

I spent 3 more hours on that frozen ski slope shooting hundreds of frames with the Leica and it never missed a beat. By mid-afternoon when I called it quits I was half frozen, and my Nikons certainly were, but the Leica was like the Timex watch in the ads of the time, they just kept on ticking."
 
absolutely love my hexar rf with wides. never had any problem with 50/1.5 either. I ususally do not trust cameras with batteries, but this one works like a charm.
 
You probably misunderstood/I didn't fully elaborate what I meant by weight.

Regarding weight I meant to carry a camera with that lens combo all day for me isn't convenient or ideal. I am a street photographer and I switch from different light situations all day long, so if I'm going to carry something with weight it better have features that will benefit my work flow rather than slow it down. I have a grasp at understanding exposure after using the M2 for over a year as my main, but I don't want to approximate exposure any longer. Most of the time I am accurate, but some frames I do slip. I would rather maximize my films potential per frame and focus on my composition and selected settings than worry about a tricky light situation when moments are fleeting.

Also the price! The M2 I currently have is probably worth ~3 Hexar RF bodies

I guess it is important if you are taking it in color. I'm using M4-2, FED-2 with BW only for the street and I don't need to measure light for every frame. It is light or shadow, one click on shutter dial or one two clicks on aperture.

Modern BW film is also very forgiving for overexposure. For few weeks now I'm doing street, outdoors photography with f1.5 only. ISO 100 or 400, 1/250 or 1/500 doesn't really matter. Even sun or overcast doesn't affect much.
I'm getting good, printable results.

Kentmere 400, green filter, f1.5, 1/500 on sunny day.



M2 going price is around $700 these days, if Hexar is so dirt cheap here is no problem to buy one!
 
While the Hexars may be starting to run out of parts I suspect that in the not too distant future 3-D printing technology will rescue a lot of these types of cameras from oblivion.

Hexars are not starting to run out of parts, spare parts have been scarce to non existent for several years.

As for 3-D printing, it's not going to rescue the Hexars. The main problem with the Hexars is the circuit board. The Hexars originally date back to the 1990's. In terms of the electronics, the Hexars are built on outdated technology. There are components needed for the circuit board that are no longer available.
 
I used to own a Hexar RF a few months ago. the motor seems fine without the film in it. but everytime I tried to load it, it always show 0 on the counter and didn't want to advance the film. I gave up on it, sold it and got the M5 instead. Al ready run around 5 rolls in it.
 
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