The Canon F-1 vs. the Nikon F2: Battle of the Second-Generation Titans!Both are pro-grade battleship 35mm SLRs, but they aren’t exactly equal

The Canon F-1 vs. the Nikon F2: Battle of the Second-Generation Titans!

Both are pro-grade battleship 35mm SLRs, but they aren’t exactly equal.

By Jason Schneider

Most serious camera enthusiasts remember that the mighty Nikon F, the first 35mm SLR to become the professionals’ mainstay, was first released in 1959. However, few recall that Canon’s first SLR, the Canonflex, arrived at almost the same time, and that both cameras were exhibited at the Philadelphia Photo Show in March of that year. The original Canonflex was discontinued after only 5 months, and about 17,000 were made. The Nikon F remained in production with slight upgrades until 1974, an impressive production run of 15 years and 862,000 units!

The reasons that round one of the 35mm SLR Sweepstakes clearly went to Nikon are the Nikon F’s superior modular concept that was soon complemented by a vast array of high-quality interchangeable lenses from ultra-wide to super-telephoto, and its extensive range of pro-aimed vsystem accessories including an electric motor drive and a 250-exposure back. The Canonflex was robust and beautifully made but its lens selection was more limited, especially at the wide-angle end. It also had an idiosyncratic bottom-mounted left-handed wind lever, lacked interchangeable screens, and was afflicted with a wonky two-ring aperture control system that made stopping the lens down to check depth of field a cumbersome procedure. To its credit, Canon quickly switched over to more user-friendly FL/FD mounts which were used in a series of successful mid-level SLRs.

Canon didn’t successfully compete in the pro 35mm SLR arena until they brought forth the Canon F-1, which was unveiled in 1970 and commercially released in March 1971. By that time, they were not only going up against their old nemesis, the Nikon F, that was still very much in production, but there was a new contender, the formidable Nikon F2 that was released in September 1971. The F2 served as its company’s flagship until 1980 and is widely regarded as the pinnacle of Nikon’s mechanical SLRs and one of the best manual-focus SLRs of all time.

The Canon F-1 was produced in three distinct iterations: the original F-1 referenced above, the F-1n of 1976, based on the same rugged body, but including such minor improvements as a shorter film-wind stroke (139 vs. 180 degrees), ISO settings to 3200, and a plastic-tipped film wind lever). The third model, the Camon New F-1 was an entirely new camera with upgraded, more sophisticated metering options via interchangeable prisms, a brighter viewfinder, and other advanced features. The Nikon F2 was likewise produced in 5 distinct versions (not including the special edition titanium-bodied F2T), all based on metering system and lens mount variations. Thet include the meter-less F2 (DE-1), the F2 Photomic (DP-1) with non-AI lens system and needle metering, the F2S/F2SB with non-AI lens system and LED meter readouts, the AI-compatible F2A, with needle metering, and the AI-compatible F2AS with LED metering. Since I have not personally shot with all these models, the following review is based on the models I own and have used extensively over many years: an original Canon F-1, a Canon New F-1 with manual meter prism, and a Nikon F2 Photomic (DP-1).

The original Canon F-1, commercially released in 1971, was clearly aimed at challenging the Nikon F and even the new Nikon F2, to garner a significant share of the expanding pro 35mm SLR market. Built on a robust diecast brass-zinc chassis and featuring a titanium foil shutter with mechanically controlled speeds of 1-1/2000 sec plus B, it was widely known as “the tank,” with a body measuring 5.8 x 3.9 x 1.7 inches (W x H x D) and weighing in at a hefty 1 pound, 13 ounces (2.6 pounds with 50mm f/1.4 DF lens) . The F-1 was Canon’s first successful professional-grade SLR system, supporting a huge variety of accessories, FD lenses, and interchangeable components including 9 different focusing screens. Between 1971 and 1979 Canon introduced 68 different FD mount lenses ranging from a 7.5 full-frame fisheye up to a monster 800mm super telephoto, including the FD 55mm f/1.2 AL, the first 35mm SLR lens with an aspherical element.

The orignal Canon F-1 with 50mm f:1.4 Canon FD breech-lock lens. Image courtesy of Canon Camer...png
The orignal Canon F-1 with 50mm f/1.4 Canon FD breech-lock lens. Image courtesy of Canon Camera Museum

The original Canon F-1 features a sophisticated, fully interchangeable finder-based TTL (Through-The-Lens) metering system, using two high-sensitivity CdS (Cadmium Sulfide) cells located within the camera body, reading light directly from the focal plane for accurate metering at the widest (full) aperture. The exposure is controlled via a match-needle display (moving needle and match-needle circle) to the right of the viewfinder, along with a small set-shutter-speed window, allowing for full manual control. Shutter- or aperture-priority auto-exposure is possible with accessories like the Servo EE Finder but it’s bulky and cumbersome and few F-1 shooters used it. The core system is center-weighted, measuring light through the lens at its widest aperture. The only battery required in the original Canon F-1 and the F-1n is a 1.35v M20 (No.625) mercury cell to power the metering system. To obtain proper exposure readings with currently available 1.5-volt silver-oxide or alkaline cells (such as the Varta V625U or equivalent) you will have to have a resistor installed to bring the voltage down to the proper level. You can also adjust the ISO to compensate but results are less consistent. The metering sensitivity range if the F-1 and F-1n is EV 2.5 to EV 18 at ISO 100 with an f/1.4 lens--OK for general shooting but inadequate for shooting at night or in very low light.

Canon F-1 impressions

The original Canon F-1 is a very pleasant camera to shoot with. It’s heavy all right, but very well balanced and its ergonomic contours fit very comfortably into my smallish hands. The viewfinder image is bright (though not as bright as the Nikon F2 or the Canon NEW F-1) and easy to focus on the standard plain screen, which shows a very light grayish rectangular parch in the center that defines the center-weighted (12%) metering area. The finder shows 97% of the area captured on film, which is fine for most purposes, though it doesn’t equal the vaunted 100% coverage of the of Nikon F/F2. The F-1’s film wind knob is nicely contoured, and I have no issue with its 180-degree stroke, but though it’s made of metal (aluminum alloy?) it has a plasticky feel that’s out of character with the rest of the camera. Much has been made if the fact that the FD lenses on the Canon F-1 and F-1n feature Canon’s much maligned breech lock mount, so it takes 2 seconds longer to change lenses. Maybe if I were a photojournalist or sports photographer this would bother me, but I’m not, and it doesn’t. Breech lock lenses have the advantage of “automatically” adjusting for any wear in the mount, but IMHO their main disadvantage is that the aperture-coupling levers on the back of the lens stick out when the lens is removed and should be protected with a rear cap that I always lose! The Canon F-1 also includes a sophisticated Canon Automatic Tuning (CAT) system for auto-flash that may appeal to some users, but I can’t comment on its assets and liabilities since I’ve never used it.

F-1 (Later model) aka the  Canon F-1n. Info page courtesy Canon Camera Museum.png
F-1 (Later model) aka the Canon F-1n. Info page courtesy Canon Camera Museum

If you’re hankering for a Canon F-1 of your very own, used examples in clean, fully functional condition are readily available online at $100 to $300 body only, around $150 more with 50mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.4 FD lens. If you’d like yours with a shorter film-wind stroke, a plastic-tipped wind lever, ISO settings to 3200, and a somewhat newer body, opt for Canon F-1n for an extra hundred bucks or so.

Canon New F-1

While the Canon F-1n was a mildly upgraded F-1, the audacious Canon New F-1 that debuted in 1981 and was officially discontinued in 1994 was an entirely new top-of-the-line 35mm SLR, built on a rugged diecast aluminum alloy chassis. It enabled TTL full-aperture and stopped-down match-needle metering with the standard Eye-Level Finder FN and aperture priority auto-exposure by mounting the optional AR Finder FN. Its horizontal-travel titanium foil focal-plane shutter features a hybrid system, using mechanical control for faster speeds (1/90 to 1/2000 sec), and electronic control for slower speeds (8 sec to 1/60 sec.) Its TTL open-aperture metering system employs a silicon photodiode (SPC) cell and a beam-splitter integrated into the focusing screen, enabling spot (3%), partial (12%), and center-weighted metering. Its Interchangeable pentaprism provides 0.8x magnification and coverage 97% coverage with standard screen featuring a split-prism rangefinder surrounded by microprisms on a Laser Matte screen. The New F-1 is powered by a single 4LR44, PX28A (or similar) 6-volt battery for electronics, while the shutter can function mechanically without batteries at faster speeds. Film handling is automatic after placing the film with leader extended and closing the back, and the countdown frame counter automatically stops at zero. The meter sensitivity range if the Canon New F-1 is approximately EV -1 to EV 18 at ISO 100 with f1.4 lens, a notable improvement over the Canon F-1/F-1n that makes the camera a much better choice for low light shooting.

Canon New F-1 with super-speed 50mm f:1.2  FDn mount lens.jpeg
Canon New F-1 with super-speed 50mm f/1.2 FDn mount lens--the hot ticket for night shooting and low-light photography.

Impressions of the Canon New F-1

The first thing you notice when picking up the New F-1 is that it feels lighter and smaller than the original F-1 even though the actual difference is small 28.4 oz for the New F-1 and 29.8 for the original. The New F-1 is generally described as “a bit smaller and more refined” than the F-1/F-1n. That may be true, but I think the F-1 fits my mitts a tad better than the New F-1’s more rounded contours. Go figure. When it comes to viewfinder brightness and clarity, the New F-1 wins hands down. And the central focusing aids of the standard screen (a split-image rangefinder, surrounded by a microprism collar) make focusing on practically anything noticeably quicker and more decisive. The vertical match needle metering field to the right of the viewing image is also much larger and easier to see, and it can be illuminated by turning the little dial to the left of the eyepiece from “normal” to “light” before you partially depress the shutter release—very cool. Another thing I really like about my New F-1 s the lens that came with it—a 50mm f/1.4 Canon FD that has Canon’s revised FDn mount. It eliminates the breech-lock mounting ring, and the lens can be removed by simply pressing in a little silver tab at the rear of the lens, turning the lens counterclockwise and lifting it off. Brilliant, but there are still those pesky levers at the rear of the naked lens that should be protected with a rear cap. Other small plusses: the nicely contoured metal film wind lever feels like metal, the shutter release feels smoother and more predictable, and the shutter lock is larger an easier to use.

New F-1 - Canon Camera Museum.png
Canon New F-1 information page, courtesy Canon Camera Museum

The Canon New F-1 is a delightful camera to shoot with. it is beautifully made, has a reassuringly solid feel, and when complemented by its impressive range of pro-caliber meter prisms, screens, motor drives, etc. it delivers a level of flexibility that the tanklike F-1 or F-1n cannot match. The main problem with the New F-1 is that it incorporates a host of unique electronics and some idiosyncratic mechanical components that cannot be replaced now, much less 20 years from now, if they should fail. By comparison the original F-1 is a stone simple workhorse with a totally mechanical shutter and relatively simple and straightforward meter circuitry. Which one would you pick if it was the only camera you had to rely on for the rest of your natural life? To help you decide for yourself, a Canon New F-1 in clean working condition currently fetches about $400 to $450 with 50mm f/1.4 Canon FDn lens.

The Nikon F2: Best manual focus Nikon SLR. Maybe the best one ever!

When Nikon brought forth the F2 in 1971 they had three aims in mind: to produce a worthy successor to the legendary Nikon F (which was still in production until 1974!) that offered significant technical and operational advancements, to create a compatible system SLR that maintained the basic identity of the Nikon F system and ensured the continued loyalty of Nikon fans, especially pros, and to offer a camera and a system that would maintain Nikon’s leading marketplace position in the face of fierce competition, notably from Canon. That the Nikon F2 in its various iterations was still able to go head-to-head with the Canon New F-1 released 10 years later in 1981 is a testament to Nikon’s far-sightedness and technical ingenuity.

My very own chrome Nikon F2 with DP1 prism and non-AI 50mm f:1.4 Nikkor lens.jpeg
My very own chrome Nikon F2 with DP1 prism and non-AI 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor lens. It's fun to shoot with and delivers the goods.

The Nikon F2 body consists of a rugged diecast aluminum alloy chassis with brass top and base plates. Its all-mechanical horizontal travel focal plane shutter employs curtains made of durable, lightweight rubberized titanium foil and provides shutter speeds of 1 to 1/2000 sec plus B. Longer speeds up to 10 sec are available by setting the shutter dial to B, the ring around the shutter release to T, and selecting the speed you want by setting it on the calibrated self-timer lever! It’s a slick ‘70s version of the clunky system used in vintage Exakta SLRs and as a result the Nikon F2 delivers a greater range of shutter speeds without battery power than virtually any other modern SLR. As mentioned previously (see the last part of paragraph 4) the Nikon F2 was conceived as a manual metering (match needle or match-LED) camera since most pros at the time viewed autoexposure as unprofessional. The Nikon F2 body measures 6.00 x 4.02 x 2.56 inches (W x H x D) and weighs in at 1 pound, 13.6 ounces (29.6 oz.) without lens.

Nikon F2 finders

The original Photomic (DP1), Photomic S (DP2) and Photomic SB (DP3) finders are for non-AI lenses. The Nikon F2A (DP11) and Nikon F2AS (DP12) finders are for AI and later lenses first introduced in 1977. AI lenses allow faster lens changing because they automatically index the meter to the lens, without having to manually do it by turning the lens aperture back and forth (the dreaded “Nikon twist). The battery compartment on the F2 was moved to the bottom plate (two P76's) and the on/off switch was moved to the lever advance (In = Off; Out = On). All F2 Photomic prisms show both the f/stops and shutter speeds in the finder and will meter correctly with the later AI/AIS lenses since these lenses have the NAI metering prong.

The Photomic Finder (DP1) is the most common and least expensive F2 meter head and the one I have on my F2 reviewed in this article. It’s a match-needle design--you adjust the f/stops or shutter speed to center the needle-and it uses a CdS cell. DP-1 is engraved on the bottom of metering head next to the serial number Exposure sensitivity EV range:1 to 17 with ISO 100 film.

Photomic S Finder (DP2). This finder was Nikon's first to use LED readouts. Its CdS cellhas increased sensitivity to light, and to battery drain so don't leave the meter on! DP-2 is engraved on bottom of metering head. Shutter Priority automation possible with the EE-1 aperture control attachment. Increased exposure EV range of -2 to 17 with ASA 100 film. Solid state meter construction for better reliability.

Photomic SB Finder (DP3). Nikon's first Silicon cell meter prism that uses an improved LED readout, it’s one of the rarest F2 meter heads. DP-3 is engraved on bottom. The CdS cell was replaced by a silicon photodiode for faster metering and improved sensitivity. Improved readout uses 3 LEDs rather than 2. Shutter Priority automation possible with EE-2. Solid state meter construction ensures better reliability.

Photomic A Finder (DP11). This is Nikon's match needle CDS meter for AI coupled lenses (same style as DP1 only for AI). DP-11 is engraved on bottom of metering head. Will meter with NAI lenses too, in stop down mode. Exposure EV range 1 to 17 with ISO100 film.

Photomic AS Finder (DP12). Nikon's best and most expensive meter head for the F2. AI metering, LED readout much like the later Nikon FM2. DP-12 is engraved on bottom of metering head. Increased sensitivity EV-2 to 17 with ISO 100 film. Will meter with NAI lenses too, in stop down mode. With its combination of rugged, solid-state construction, five position LED readout, improved silicon photodiode response, and great low light sensitivity, the AS finder is the best and alas, most expensive metering head for the Nikon F2 ($300-$400 used).

My latest Acquisition, a black Nikon F2A with 50mm f:1.4 AI Nikkor lens and Nikon filter.jpeg
My latest Acquisition, a black Nikon F2A with 50mm f/1.4 AI Nikkor lens and Nikon filter. Please don't tell my wife I paid $425 for it!

Hands-on review of the Nikon F2 with Photomic (DP1) meter prism

The Nikon F2 with basic DP1 meter prism and classic non-AI 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor is a formidable machine in terms of size and weight, but the rounded contours of its body make it comfortable to hold, it’s very well balanced, and its controls, as the British are wont to say, fall readily to hand. The plastic tipped wind lever is nicely contoured and advances the film in a single short 120° stroke or a series of shorter strokes, the shutter release is well positioned and operates smoothly with moderate finger force and has a predicable firing point (which I prefer to feather light or electronic releases), and the shutter speed dial (with inset ASA 6-6400 scale), textured aperture ring on the lens, and the folded rewind crank are all where you (or any Nikon F user) would expect to find them. The only idiosyncratic controls are the Leica M-style lift-and twist back lock on the bottom, and the inconvenient front-and-rear locking system for removing the prism, which is less convenient and secure than the slide-off system used on the Canon F-1, F-1n an New F-1. Oh well, at least the F2’s prism mounting system is more secure than the flimsy one on the Nikon F!

Perhaps the nicest thing about the Nikon F2, aside from its stellar record of longtime reliability, is it’s brilliant 100% coverage, 0.8x viewfinder. It is a joy to use and the standard A screen in my F2 has an excellent central split-image rangefinder surrounded by a clear focusing collar to facilitate focusing on fine details. Normally I’m a big fan of plain screens, but this one displays the central focusing aids so discreetly they’re not obtrusive. I also like the fact that you activate the meter by pulling the wind lever to standoff position—no searching for buttons or levers. Kudos to Nikon for the simple in-finder needle and notch metering system, and for including the set shutter speed. However, the metering displays below the viewfinder image are simply too small, and there’s no way to illuminate them in low light. Finally, speaking of low light, the CdS cell metering system in the DP1 meter prism isn’t sensitive enough for shooting in very low light, but switching to one of the other Nikon meter prisms that uses a silicon photodiode will solve that problem quite easily. All it takes is money! A Nikon F2 in clean working condition currently sells for about $300 to $400 with 50mmm f/1.4 AI Nikkor lens.

And the winner is---

If you expect me make to pick a clear winner among this elite triumvirate of pro SLRs of the late analog period I’m sorry to disappoint you, but I’ve used all three with immense satisfaction for more than 25 years and I love them all. The original Canon F-1 (and the mildly upgraded F-1n) are perhaps the most indestructible 35mm SLRs ever made—if you can hammer nails with a Nikon F, you can probably hammer spikes with Canon F-1 and then use it to cover your next assignment. In terms of sophistication and flexibility right out of the box you’ve got to hand it to the Canon New F-1 with match-needle FN prism. It’s ruggedly built on a diecast chassis, has a superb viewfinder with a large, legible exposure readout scale, and its silicon photodiode metering system is sensitive enough for shooting in “available darkness.” On the minus side its reputation for reliability is less than stellar, getting it repaired can be challenging, and spare parts must be cannibalized.

This brings us to the redoubtable Nikon F2, which, despite its relatively minor deficiencies, is a magnificent machine—beautifully made, with a brilliant 100% coverage viewfinder, and, according to most user and expert reviewers a paragon of reliability, durability, and longevity. If you’re a low light shooter, fit it with a DP3 or DP12 meter prism, which adds to the cost, but the result will be an exceptional camera.

If you forced me to rank my choices right this minute, under penalty of having to shoot with a Perfex 55 for the rest if my life, I’d pick the Nikon F2, the Canon New F-1, and the Canon F-1/F-1n in that order. But if you asked me tomorrow, the results might well be different.







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I have always seen two problems with the breechlock mount that Canon used. First, while the rotating mount could hold the lens the lens to the camera, there was no lock. It was just as easy for the collar to loosen up as tighten, and suddenly a lens could drop off the camera.
Is that really a problem that people experienced? I grew up around FL mount cameras. My dad's Canon TL QL was a constant item in my childhood to early adulthood (I'm 52). I then took possession of it while I was in college (early to mid 90s) and used it for my own purposes until 2001 when I bought an Olympus OM-1. Fast forward 25 years and I've been using FL cameras again for 5 years now. Not once have I had the breechlock loosen in the slightest, either FL lens on an FL body or FL lens on an FD body.

The bigger problem was mounting large or long lenses. It could require three hands, which most people don't have. One hand to hold the camera in position, one hand to place the lens in position and set the lugs in place while still keeping the balance and a set of fingers to turn the collar into position.
The longest lens I ever used in an FL system was a 70-210 zoom. That said, my handling for any FL lens was the same. One hand held the body and the other held the lens with my thumb and forefinger turning the collar. My hands are average size, I typically wear a size Large glove. Someone with small hands might not be able to manipulate the lens in the same way.

I've never understood the angst about the FL mount. It's not as convenient as a bayonet (but no less so than LTM or M42), but it works fine. I've used Canon FL and FD, Pentax K, Olympus, Nikon, and LTM cameras. I'm as comfortable and secure with the FL breechlock as I am with any of the others.

Chris
 
Someone please add recommendations for repairers for Canon F-1 and Nikon F2 series.
Preferably those not charging Leica prices!

TIA,
Chris
It wasn't an F-1, though he certainly works on them, but I sent my FT to Garry's Camera Repair and he did a CLA, replaced the prism, and did some other minor repairs for $89, including return shipping, in 2021. His webpage says he works on the F-1, but he doesn't list the Nikon F2 (he does work on the FM and FE series, so maybe contact him and ask).

At least in my case his turnaround was incredibly fast. I shipped it to him the week of Thanksgiving and had it back the Monday after Thanksgiving.

He also has a youtube channel now showing him working on various cameras if you want to watch him in action.

Chris
 
First, while the rotating mount could hold the lens the lens to the camera, there was no lock. It was just as easy for the collar to loosen up as tighten, and suddenly a lens could drop off the camera.
(my emphasis added) Is that a thought you had or something you experienced? I used an FT QL, mostly 28/3.5+100/3.5 for more than 10 years, in the backpack or belly-pack in mountain hikes and climbs, changing lenses as required, and never experienced what you describe.
 
(my emphasis added) Is that a thought you had or something you experienced? I used an FT QL, mostly 28/3.5+100/3.5 for more than 10 years, in the backpack or belly-pack in mountain hikes and climbs, changing lenses as required, and never experienced what you describe.

My first 35mm SLR cameras were a Canon AE-1 followed by a Canon A-1. I used several Canon FD lenses with these.
On several occasions I inadvertently turned the wrong ring - i.e. the silver breech lock collar - and the lens fell right off.
Only my quick hands saved the lens from falling to the floor.

Later Canon improved their FD lenses with a lock - i.e. FDn - but by then I had moved on and was a Nikon SLR user.

Chris
 
Canon's first solution, which Jason does not describe, was to spring load the rotating collar. One positions the lens on the camera and as the mount sets against the camera mount,it depresses a button that causes the now spring-loaded collar to rotate slightly—enough to hold the lens on the camera. One then tightens the collar all the way. This made it easier to mount longer, bigger lens if one cannot hold the collar and lens together with one hand. The final solution was to give up on the breech lock completely and change it to a real bayonet.
When working somewhere in the 1970s with the F1 and the situation became a kind of hectic, meaning sometimes quickly changing lenses, i.e. "throwing one in the bag to grap another", it happend to me very often the collar was a bit off position - so the lens didn't fit. Specially in the dark it was hard to see. I cursed the breech lock and with it the Canon F1. I was so happy the company I then worked for changed to Nikon F2
 
My first 35mm SLR cameras were a Canon AE-1 followed by a Canon A-1. I used several Canon FD lenses with these.
On several occasions I inadvertently turned the wrong ring - i.e. the silver breech lock collar - and the lens fell right off.
Only my quick hands saved the lens from falling to the floor.

Later Canon improved their FD lenses with a lock - i.e. FDn - but by then I had moved on and was a Nikon SLR user.

Chris
Hmm. I could see where that might happen with the early breech-mount FD lenses. I never experienced it myself because I've only owned one breech-mount FD lens, but I get it. On the FL lenses I've owned, most of them have the aperture ring at the front of the lens, preventing this.

Chris
 
I've been using Nikons since the mid 80s and finally had a Canon F-1 come into my hands a while ago. My first thought was that I should have chosen Canon all those years ago, I liked most everything about it better than my F2. The only problem was that everything (focus, aperture, & shutter speed) turn in the opposite direction and so it completely befuddled my 40 years of muscle memory.
 
The bigger problem was mounting large or long lenses. It could require three hands, which most people don't have.
I've made similar experiences when carrying around two New F-1 bodies (with coloured and black-and-white slide films) and walking through the streets: Interchanging lenses quickly between the two FD bodies might require three hands also. Even with nFD lenses it's more tricky and slower than with (as far as I experienced) Leicaflex or Contax/Yashica lenses or especially Exakta Varex bayonet lenses.

Tim what do you think about the ‘original’ F-1 vs the later incarnations? I’m attracted to the original version for some reason though I am definitely not well-versed in F-1s at all.
If I might be allowed to add - a while ago I sold an early-1976 F-1 body for a friend because it didn't fit into my New F-1 system. Sure, today I regret not having bought that body for myself.
But regarding these cameras as photographic tools I must say that I prefer the New F-1: because of its features regarding exposure measurement, automatics and the battery problem.
Sure, I miss the 100%-mechanical shutter of the original F-1 and its waist level viewfinder that can be shut - which is handy when the camera is carried around in a bag.
 
I've made similar experiences when carrying around two New F-1 bodies (with coloured and black-and-white slide films) and walking through the streets: Interchanging lenses quickly between the two FD bodies might require three hands also. Even with nFD lenses it's more tricky and slower than with (as far as I experienced) Leicaflex or Contax/Yashica lenses or especially Exakta Varex bayonet lenses.


If I might be allowed to add - a while ago I sold an early-1976 F-1 body for a friend because it didn't fit into my New F-1 system. Sure, today I regret not having bought that body for myself.
But regarding these cameras as photographic tools I must say that I prefer the New F-1: because of its features regarding exposure measurement, automatics and the battery problem.
Sure, I miss the 100%-mechanical shutter of the original F-1 and its waist level viewfinder that can be shut - which is handy when the camera is carried around in a bag.
Many thanks for weighing in — I touched base with my repair fellow regarding his ‘parts’ F-1 that’s sitting on his floor (along with a number of other cameras I might add!) and he’s going to give some thought to a price on it. I’d need to find a prism as I don’t think he has a period-correct one (though I am weirdly attracted to the ‘speed’ finder).

Maybe it’s due to the fact that the work I’m presently doing isn’t particularly ‘critical’ or important that I’m attracted to the early model. As far as the battery issue goes it’s no big deal as I already have the Kanto Camera adapters. Mind you I have a Canon AE-1 that I’ve been pretty pleased with so perhaps it might be a better idea to stick with what I’ve got. Ah decisions decisions!
 
Someone please add recommendations for repairers for Canon F-1 and Nikon F2 series.
Preferably those not charging Leica prices!

TIA,
Chris

ICT Camera in Buena Vista, CA did a great job on my FtN Apollo and I would imagine would do excellent work on an F2 as well. They both CLAed my body AND fixed the FtN metering head to completely normal operation.


Solver Wong supposedly does thge best F2 restoration around but A) It is ery expensive and B) You wait a long time.


 
Good write up and quite fair I think. I was around for the F to F Apollo and then F2 transitions. I own an just-overhauled FtN Apollo (by ICT). That camera model (not the one I now have) was my first 35mm SLR, bought new in the early 1970s. Right after that, the F2 came out and I sooooo wished I'd waited to buy one. A few years ago a good deal on an F2 Photomic became available at my local shop and I jumped on it.

Having used both a lot, my heart still remains with the F. Yes, the F2 is a technical improvement, but over the years and various F bodies I have used, they have proven to be nearly indestructible in even abusive use - like failing to put the strap back on after a reload, standing up and watching the camera bounce off concrete. Minor ding and kept right on shooting.

I also saw them in heavy rental rotation at a pro shop I once worked for. No one is harder on cameras than pro rentals and our Fs just kept on shooting until they were literally worn out.

There is a reason the F set the standard for pro quality SLRs and that reason has not yet been improved 😉

P.S. I also have an F3 which again, is more innovative, but a pale shadow of the original F.
 
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Another fun story from the time of dinosaurs. At the time I was contemplating the purchase of a 35mm SLR, I was living in remote part of Alaska. The only way to buy anything of the sort was via mail order - literally sending the order off in an envelope and requesting COD delivery.

My first choice was actually the Canon F1 and I dutifully mailed my order to Altman Camera in Chicago for an F1 and 50mm lens, with COD delivery via US Postal service requested.

And I waited, and waited, and waited - it's Alaska, you waited - and waited, and after a couple months of no camera, I ordered an Apollo FtN and 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor that showed up a few weeks later.

I have this fantasy that there is a brand new Canon F1 sitting in a dusty USPS warehouse somewhere that will be discovered and delivery will be attempted. I'll have a friend pay the whopping $300 for it so I can own a NIB F1. How fun would that be ...
 
Another fun story from the time of dinosaurs. At the time I was contemplating the purchase of a 35mm SLR, I was living in remote part of Alaska. The only way to buy anything of the sort was via mail order - literally sending the order off in an envelope and requesting COD delivery.

My first choice was actually the Canon F1 and I dutifully mailed my order to Altman Camera in Chicago for an F1 and 50mm lens, with COD delivery via US Postal service requested.

And I waited, and waited, and waited - it's Alaska, you waited - and waited, and after a couple months of no camera, I ordered an Apollo FtN and 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor that showed up a few weeks later.

I have this fantasy that there is a brand new Canon F1 sitting in a dusty USPS warehouse somewhere that will be discovered and delivery will be attempted. I'll have a friend pay the whopping $300 for it so I can own a NIB F1. How fun would that be ...
It's my experience that USPS likes to send packages on a world tour (gratis!) before they actually arrive at their destination. Your F1 should be arriving soon. Any time now. Really.
 
It's my experience that USPS likes to send packages on a world tour (gratis!) before they actually arrive at their destination. Your F1 should be arriving soon. Any time now. Really.


That is really clear these days since USPS provides path tracking. I have watched packages from WI destined for, say, IL, go through LA to get there.

I hope you're right. I'd love to own an new F1. 'Wonder if the warranty still applies?
 
I got into Canon SLRs as kind of a side hobby and found I liked them quite a bit. Until I dropped an FL mount lens because I accidentally unlocked it. Luckily it landed on a soft bit of ground, so it only needed a bit of cleaning after I got back home. That's when I switched up to the FD/FDn mount bodies and lenses. Eventually I went back to my Nikons because I too was very much ingrained as to how the cameras and lenses operated. My favorite Canon body was the A1 as I really liked the LED readout in the finder. The Nikon F2 is by far my overall favorite camera period!

As for the USPS mis-shipping items, many years ago I ordered a camera from Texas and the first stop on its journey was Guam (I live in Virginia). I've also had items pass through the local main office on their way to some other city or state before making a U-turn back to Roanoke. My thoughts on that are someone doesn't pay attention when loading the shuttle trucks and just grab any basket load to fill it up before leaving with space left in the box.

PF
 
Good write up and quite fair I think. I was around for the F to F Apollo and then F2 transitions. I own an just-overhauled FtN Apollo (by ICT). That camera model (not the one I now have) was my first 35mm SLR, bought new in the early 1970s. Right after that, the F2 came out and I sooooo wished I'd waited to buy one. A few years ago a good deal on an F2 Photomic became available at my local shop and I jumped on it.

Having used both a lot, my heart still remains with the F. Yes, the F2 is a technical improvement, but over the years and various F bodies I have used, they have proven to be nearly indestructible in even abusive use - like failing to put the strap back on after a reload, standing up and watching the camera bounce off concrete. Minor ding and kept right on shooting.

I also saw them in heavy rental rotation at a pro shop I once worked for. No one is harder on cameras than pro rentals and our Fs just kept on shooting until they were literally worn out.

There is a reason the F set the standard for pro quality SLRs and that reason has not yet been improved 😉

P.S. I also have an F3 which again, is more innovative, but a pale shadow of the original F.
CR, I was a steady Nikon user & was skeptical of all the electronics on the new F3, but when I put one to hard use over years.... the F3 never failed me. Ultimately I hated the F4...first i didn't need autofocus and secondly I found it very awkward to hold.....just something personal about the shape. For me the nail in the coffin was the F5....I went all in when they came out and mine did 3x trips for service in the first 6 months.....the batteries wouldn't rewind a single roll of 35mm! It came back 3x "fixed"...the frustration made me dump the Nikon system.
 
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My first SLR camera was a Nikon F Photomic FTn that I got in 1968. I acquired an F2 (can't remember what head) about 1983. While both were superb, I preferred the old F ... it just fit my hands better perhaps from years of familiarity. Years later, after all my other Nikons were gone, I rescued an early plain prism F which I still have and occasionally use.

The Canons (all of them) never appealed to me ... something about their shape and feel just didn't do it for me, and the one time I owned a Canon 10D and bought a small kit of lenses, I found I didn't like the lenses very much, preferred the Nikon and Olympus versions of similar focal lengths. But, eh? It's mostly a matter of taste because all of this gear was good.

G
 
CR, I was a steady Nikon user & was skeptical of all the electronics on the new F3, but when I put one to hard use over years.... the F3 never failed me. Ultimately I hated the F4...first i didn't need autofocus and secondly I found it very awkward to hold.....just something personal about the shape. For me the nail in the coffin was the F5....I went all in when they came out and mine did 3x trips for service in the first 6 months.....the batteries wouldn't rewind a single roll of 35mm! It came back 3x "fixed"...the frustration made me dump the Nikon system.

I would love to love my F3 as it is very nearly NIB. But that stupid backlight button is really obnoxious...
 
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