The case of 3 35s

J

Joe AC

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Well, about a months ago I bought a c Biogon. I read all the threads and reviews and was very impressed. Using it confirms everything that I've read about it. I also have a Nokton 1.2 for low light. Now today I stumble into a good ol fashioned camera store and see a mint (or just about mint) V2 summicron with hood at what I feel was a very good price. Well....
I bought it. I have a 50mm V4 that I think is great and based my desision on that. I figured that I'd sell the biogon, it's still like New, but after getting home and reading up on the V2 I'm not quite sure. I do like that the V2 takes the same filters as my 50. So any advise?

Thanks
Joe
 
Take some photographs with it. I just bought the C Biogon and already have the Summicron v4. If I was selling one it would be the Leica I suspect. I'm not selling. I'm also not looking for a very fast 35. If you like what your new Summicron does you'll still want to keep the Zeiss I reckon, so offload the Nokton. Or keep them all.
 
Richard G said:
Take some photographs with it. I just bought the C Biogon and already have the Summicron v4. If I was selling one it would be the Leica I suspect. I'm not selling. I'm also not looking for a very fast 35. If you like what your new Summicron does you'll still want to keep the Zeiss I reckon, so offload the Nokton. Or keep them all.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'll do a side by side comparison of the three and see which I like better. I'm just thinking that the Nokton serves a purpose that the other two don't (low light). And the 35 summicron uses the same filter size as as the 50 have but I'm not sure if it's up to the performance of the biogon.

Joe
 
you'll probably find it isn't up to the performance of the c biogon. there is a long period of time of development between the two. the biogon is possibly one of the sharpest 35s out.
that said, it may have a different rendering in terms of the sharpness/contrast/tones that you prefer. worth a test.

they are all nice lenses you have.
 
- compare the size of the v2 with the C-biogon and realize the v2 is twice as fast. Also google for "wobble" for both the Nokton and Zeiss ZM Biogons. The Summicron will survive another 40 years. Remains to be seen about CV-manufactured lenses.
- I use the v3 Summicron, which is very similar to the v2 optically (both have 6 elements, the v3 a larger rear element reducing vignetting a bit). There is something special in its signature. Shoot some portraits, and you might like it; I know I do.

1159119935_kCetf-O.jpg


TMX100-Scan-110921-0047.jpg


1090503015_HJAYn-O.jpg


Roland.
 
Thanks for the replies. Great pics ferider! I love the look of those. I'll probably end up selling the c Biogon and keeping the other two. I just got a little worried when I started to read things like "soft" and "resolution not as good" , about the V2 summicron.
I'll hopefully process my first roll with it tomorrow.

Thanks again
Joe
 
I'm really confused. Usually, people ask for advice before purchasing. After purchasing, they can decide for themselves based on use. I suggest that you live in the real world and make up your own mind. After all, you have both lenses.
 
bwcolor said:
I'm really confused. Usually, people ask for advice before purchasing. After purchasing, they can decide for themselves based on use. I suggest that you live in the real world and make up your own mind. After all, you have both lenses.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I didn't realize that I broke the rules of how to go about the asking of advise. I will be sure to reference your written manual on it in the future.
Until then I will go about "living in the real world" and take some pictures with my new lens. Thanks for the help.

Joe
 
Thanks all for the input on the wobble (and play) ... I thought I recalled that it wasn't a life-shattering issue.
 
Thanks guys.

back alley said:
roland also uses the cv 35/1.4...where/how does that fit into this equation?
does it have the dreaded wobble?
Click to expand...

There is a third "wobble" that has been documented for several ZM and CV lenses: the entire focus block coming apart. I once fixed a Nokton 50/1.5 that was wobbling like this. 3 screws to tighten and lock-tight behind the front element group - not trivial and not the typical DIY job. And yes, of course it affects performance; just think about the RF coupling tolerances that you need ....

Here is the latest example: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=120001.

I have also had the 35/1.4 Nokton into pieces (and back together :)). The internal wobble that you can get with Planar, Biogon, Nokton, Ultron, can not happen here .... Similar in built to my v3 Summicron, maybe a little less brass, but very solid.

http://ferider.smugmug.com/Technical/Lenses/CV-Nokton-3514/10326248_scQrgV

I have to admit though, I have no clue how the 35/2.8 Biogon is built. All wobble reports on the inter tubes refer to the 35/2 Biogon. But I did once decide never to buy a ZM lens again (I did use a C-Sonnar for a few months) since the price/built doesn't fit, IMO. Also, the longer I do this lens thing, the more I care about size, built and handling, and less about "rendering"; IQ is usually good enough when you get good samples ...

Just look at how small this one is:

204794055_VYb6G-L-2.jpg


:)

Roland.
 
Joe AC said:
I'm sorry, I didn't realize that I broke the rules of how to go about the asking of advise. I will be sure to reference your written manual on it in the future.
Until then I will go about "living in the real world" and take some pictures with my new lens. Thanks for the help.

Joe
Click to expand...

You did post asking for advice. You are welcome.
 
Trius said:
A bit OT -- Does the wobble affect optical performance? Or is it just an annoyance?
Click to expand...

The wobble causes the photographer to stumble and fall.

Play tends to get the photographer in trouble.

"rim shot"

He said after consuming a bit too much Oregon Riesling & hand made Kentucky bourbon.

Wayne
 
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