gdi
Veteran
I thought I could resist the M9, but I am seriously considering it now.
A few things will have to go, so if I go through with it, I will sell an M8 and a nice Mamiya 7II kit (43mm/finder, 65mm, 150mm/finder, Polarizer, Pano kit) along with a bit of Canon EOS gear.
That should more or less pay for an M9, but I have a Nikon 9000 and want to keep a nice Medium Format kit for occasional use. I am thinking I would pick up a Hasselblad and a lens or two.
I want to keep cost down pretty low, and I think I get a basic 500C kit with an 80mm for around $500. I really know next to nothing about the system, any advice would be appreciated. (Another possibility would be a Fuji 6x7 or 6x9 RF, but I like the idea of changeable lenses)
Thanks
A few things will have to go, so if I go through with it, I will sell an M8 and a nice Mamiya 7II kit (43mm/finder, 65mm, 150mm/finder, Polarizer, Pano kit) along with a bit of Canon EOS gear.
That should more or less pay for an M9, but I have a Nikon 9000 and want to keep a nice Medium Format kit for occasional use. I am thinking I would pick up a Hasselblad and a lens or two.
I want to keep cost down pretty low, and I think I get a basic 500C kit with an 80mm for around $500. I really know next to nothing about the system, any advice would be appreciated. (Another possibility would be a Fuji 6x7 or 6x9 RF, but I like the idea of changeable lenses)
Thanks
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
M9 and Mamiya 6 for MF. Carry both in small bag if necessary.
gdi
Veteran
That would be nice, but getting a 6 kit is beyond my price range. If I do this I wll have to seriously downgrade my MF gear. It is hard to imagine letting the Mamiya go, but I just find that I rarely use it..
Thanks
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Check some previous Hasselblad threads (evil slr forum) ... I was asking this question myself recently and the advice I got was very helpful from enthusiasts of this amazingl 6x6 system.
I absolutely love my 500cm and 80mm Planar and wish I'd bought them ages ago!
I absolutely love my 500cm and 80mm Planar and wish I'd bought them ages ago!
gdi
Veteran
I did see some of the info and shots in your thread Keith. That's why I am considering the 500c. If I were to go this route, I may want to get a second wider lens as well, though...
daveywaugh
Blah
I think an M9 and a Hassy kit would complement each other perfectly - great idea. Probably a dream kit for many of us! There's so much on the web already but IMO here are the main things:
Probably the best price/performance kit would be a 500cm with an 80CF lens. The cm body is newer, allows you to easily change screens and later versions have a better winder and a few other minor improvements. The CF lenses are nicer ergonomically than the C's. Depending what you are into of course, you may want a longer lens on the hassy to complement the wider/normal lenses you'd probably use on the M9. The sonnar 150 goes cheap and is a lovely lens - the 180 (reputedly) even better but goes for more $$$ The 120 Makro is simply remarkable - but again not cheap. Still you might like the macro capability seeing the M wont give it.
Overall, the 50, 80 and 150's are the standards and best value. One last thing - regardless of the condition you buy it, get a CLA on the body and back, an preferably the lens also. You'll then have about 10 years of hassle free shooting before another one.
Probably the best price/performance kit would be a 500cm with an 80CF lens. The cm body is newer, allows you to easily change screens and later versions have a better winder and a few other minor improvements. The CF lenses are nicer ergonomically than the C's. Depending what you are into of course, you may want a longer lens on the hassy to complement the wider/normal lenses you'd probably use on the M9. The sonnar 150 goes cheap and is a lovely lens - the 180 (reputedly) even better but goes for more $$$ The 120 Makro is simply remarkable - but again not cheap. Still you might like the macro capability seeing the M wont give it.
Overall, the 50, 80 and 150's are the standards and best value. One last thing - regardless of the condition you buy it, get a CLA on the body and back, an preferably the lens also. You'll then have about 10 years of hassle free shooting before another one.
sahe69
Well-known
If a fixed lens system is not totally out of the question why not consider a Rolleiflex? Very light & compact and, compared to a Hassie, its whisper silent.
Austerby
Well-known
I nearly have this setup - albeit with an M3 rather than an M9. It's a brilliant combination.
I picked up a 500cm and 80/2.8 at an amazingly affordable price and since picked up an old 50/4 and 150/4, though haven't used them much. I purposefully chose the older and cheaper lenses and they are still as special as they were when new. They are more complicated than the Leica, with shutters built into the lenses etc..
I picked up a 500cm and 80/2.8 at an amazingly affordable price and since picked up an old 50/4 and 150/4, though haven't used them much. I purposefully chose the older and cheaper lenses and they are still as special as they were when new. They are more complicated than the Leica, with shutters built into the lenses etc..
Phantomas
Well-known
In general, to keep things minimalistic, from lens point of view, 80mm Hassie lens (CF version not necessary) is enough and will cover most situaions from portraits to landcapes to steet shots. Of course one can expand, but if you limit your kit than 80mm is very versatile. It's a realy-realy, realy realy realy, realy realy REALY REALY, REALY good lens! One of the best.
Agreed on CM body, price difference with C is small but it allows slighly more expandability (most importantly for focusing screens).
Wide lenses for Hassie are expensive by default and I didn't try them to comment, but I don't need them because I don't have use for Hassie as wideangle.
Agreed on CM body, price difference with C is small but it allows slighly more expandability (most importantly for focusing screens).
Wide lenses for Hassie are expensive by default and I didn't try them to comment, but I don't need them because I don't have use for Hassie as wideangle.
Nokton48
Veteran
I would pay just a little more (or maybe not) and get the 500C/M. I have two of those myself, and two of the 500EL/M's which are very nice, as well. Sometimes the EL/Ms go cheaper than the 500C/M's, go figure. These cameras work just as well for me as when they were brand new. Everything goes to David Odess if it needs work. I prefer the black T* C lenses from the 70s era, they are just great for my uses. I have a Non-T* 350mm F5.6 Tele-Tessar, and 500mm F8 Non-T* lenses, and for these lenses, the T* does not make an iota of difference that I have ever been able to -see-. What is important, is to use a good lenshood, with either T* or Non-T*. Maybe the difference between the two is 1-2% at most, certainly not significant.
The black T* 80mm F2.8 Carl Zeiss Planar is excellent, cheap, and very underrated. 2X Teleconverters are also an option. The black T* 50mm F4 Carl Zeiss Distagon is an excellent wideangle, that I use alot.
The black T* 150mm F4 Carl Zeiss Planar is amazingly sharp and has a good reputation.
The black T* 80mm F2.8 Carl Zeiss Planar is excellent, cheap, and very underrated. 2X Teleconverters are also an option. The black T* 50mm F4 Carl Zeiss Distagon is an excellent wideangle, that I use alot.
The black T* 150mm F4 Carl Zeiss Planar is amazingly sharp and has a good reputation.
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gdi
Veteran
Thanks for all the input, good to see so many Hasselblad fans here. I am still mulling my options, and keep coming back to the fact that my current situation is not so bad.
I am continuing to look at Hassie shots on flickr, however!
I am continuing to look at Hassie shots on flickr, however!
maddoc
... likes film again.
I picked up a nice 500 C/M with a Hasselblad Planar CF 80/2.8 T* two years ago. Added one more A12 back and changed the screen to an accu matte D-type. A very nice kit and complementary camera to go with my Leica M (4-P / 7).
Jamie123
Veteran
I second the suggestion of a Rolleiflex instead of a Hassy. An even better option IMO would be to keep the Mamiya 7 with the 65mm and sell the rest.
dacookieman
Cookie Monster
Definitely get the Hasselblad I bought one many months back, broke as heck (student budget) and i really love it so much that i carry it around with me everyday. I love how its modular and you can change your film back, use different film speeds, and lenses ( still using the 80mm though).
Love it, ever looked back, i think you will enjoy yours.
I bought one many months back, broke as heck (student budget) and i really love it so much that i carry it around with me everyday. I love how its modular and you can change your film back, use different film speeds, and lenses ( still using the 80mm though).Love it, ever looked back, i think you will enjoy yours.
Richard Marks
Rexel
Definately agree with most posters above the 500cm is worth a little extra because of changing the screen. early screens are very dark. Eventually you want the latest acute matte d screen which is a lot brighter and with micro prism is very easy to focus.
If you are planning to hand hold this may I recommend the L grip. not expensive for a 500cm. Another low cost add on is a 10mm or 16 mmextension tube for close focusing the 80mm.
The real beauty of this system is you could actually buy it piece by piece and it will all work. Later A12 backs are nice as they hold the dark slide and stop you putting it down / importing bits of grit into the magazine.
Lens wise the glass changes very little but the c lenses are now a bit of a worry for parts so i would hold out for a CF lens at the very least.
One thing which is not worth the effort is the TTL on the later 503 series models.
Also one shock to a lot of people is that the v series metered prisms are not coupled. The older prisms are fine for focusing but metering just in EV's can feel a bit slow if you are used to modern gear.
Regarding hand holding, it can be done but to get the best out of a hassy you have to go for the tripod, nice higher appertures and maybe drag the shutter speed. Even with the larger format, if you do not do this the end result may not be that much better then a leica m with slower film, wider appertures and better tollerence of slow shutter speeds. Rolleiflex or Mamiya would be better hand held.
A few people refer to the Rolleiflex. Georgeous to own but getting quite expensive for anything worth having. A good compromise financially is the rolleicord Vb which has a brilliant lens and usually has avoided heavy professional use. It is also generally 30 years younger and quite a lot lighter. But all in all just an 80mm lens is restricting. And amazingly a 500cm will still hook up to the latest digital backs albeit with a crop factor.
Just a final thought if you get into this the 100 3.5 is just a bit nicer than the 80 planar in my opinion if you get the chance.
best wishes
Richard
If you are planning to hand hold this may I recommend the L grip. not expensive for a 500cm. Another low cost add on is a 10mm or 16 mmextension tube for close focusing the 80mm.
The real beauty of this system is you could actually buy it piece by piece and it will all work. Later A12 backs are nice as they hold the dark slide and stop you putting it down / importing bits of grit into the magazine.
Lens wise the glass changes very little but the c lenses are now a bit of a worry for parts so i would hold out for a CF lens at the very least.
One thing which is not worth the effort is the TTL on the later 503 series models.
Also one shock to a lot of people is that the v series metered prisms are not coupled. The older prisms are fine for focusing but metering just in EV's can feel a bit slow if you are used to modern gear.
Regarding hand holding, it can be done but to get the best out of a hassy you have to go for the tripod, nice higher appertures and maybe drag the shutter speed. Even with the larger format, if you do not do this the end result may not be that much better then a leica m with slower film, wider appertures and better tollerence of slow shutter speeds. Rolleiflex or Mamiya would be better hand held.
A few people refer to the Rolleiflex. Georgeous to own but getting quite expensive for anything worth having. A good compromise financially is the rolleicord Vb which has a brilliant lens and usually has avoided heavy professional use. It is also generally 30 years younger and quite a lot lighter. But all in all just an 80mm lens is restricting. And amazingly a 500cm will still hook up to the latest digital backs albeit with a crop factor.
Just a final thought if you get into this the 100 3.5 is just a bit nicer than the 80 planar in my opinion if you get the chance.
best wishes
Richard
Merkin
For the Weekend
If you do get a 500c, be sure you get one with a late serial number, as some of the early ones were slightly different and some parts are NLA.
Also, keep in mind that Hasselblad prices are creeping back up from their low about a year ago. You will probably end up paying 6 or 7 hundred bucks for a kit that would have gone for 500 then.
Also, considering a lot of these Hasselblads are coming in to the market after having had a long life in the hands of a pro photographer, you would be better off buying from a dealer or a shop where you can get some sort of minimal warranty or return policy. Be sure the return policy length is long enough that you have time to shoot a couple rolls of E6 and get them processed.
Also, keep in mind that Hasselblad prices are creeping back up from their low about a year ago. You will probably end up paying 6 or 7 hundred bucks for a kit that would have gone for 500 then.
Also, considering a lot of these Hasselblads are coming in to the market after having had a long life in the hands of a pro photographer, you would be better off buying from a dealer or a shop where you can get some sort of minimal warranty or return policy. Be sure the return policy length is long enough that you have time to shoot a couple rolls of E6 and get them processed.
b.espahbod
Optophile
they say "Walk slowly and carry a big Gun!" get a hassy 503CW/501CM/500CM/500C doesnt make differece but get a 80 CFE that focuses smooth and fast, CF and C lenses are hard to turn. if u can buy 100 CF or CFE it would be great, 100 3.5 is distortion free and great for high-res pics and repro down to 1x1m^2 objects.