fgianni
Trainee Amateur
You ba5tards stop it right now!
I can't afford another lens!
I can't afford another lens!
Xax
Established
the nokton blocks the lower right quarter of the viewfinder almost completely. with the vented hood it's a bit better, but it has never really distracted me...
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
i have the 35/1.7 Ultron which seems to give very nice OOF rendering but i keep lusting over the 35/1.2 Nokton with the faster maximum aperture and closer minimum focus distance.
i've looked at many examples from the 35/1.2 Nokton but just can't make my mind up whether the OOF rendering is 'nicer' or not. some shots look beautiful while others appear to have a bit of double lining and bright rings to the edges of OOF highlights.
i'd love to hear from people who've owned and shot with both the 35/1.7 Ultron and 35/1.2 Nokton, which one did you seem to like the best in terms of image rendering...it's ok to say you don't know why you like one over the other...i understand ;-)
also, although the weight of the 35/1.2 Nokton is not a concern to me, how much of the view does this lens block on a Bessa R2A?
Cheers.
The 35f1.7 and the 35f1.2 are two different lenses. The 1.7 is a good, medium speed 35 that will do a great job across the board. It is also ssmaller and easier to lug around. Wether you use a 1.7,1.4,2.0 doesnt really matter - they are all good,
The 35f1.2 falls into the category "specialized " lenses. When the lights dim - there are really no alternative to it. It has a rather unique fingerprint wide open, sharp in the focusplane, but with dramatic drop off to the OOF areas. When the lens first came out and I got a pre-production sample, I shot some tests and promptly sold my Noctilux 50f1, realizing that I would use it even less than before. Shooting with the 35f1.2 you can handhold it at 1/8 with rather predictable results and with 800/1600 film - the result is quite stunning! Your limit is actually what lightlevel you can focus at - the lens will deliver. Like with any "super fast" lens, you will have more misses than with the mere "mortal" lenses at f2! It is not the fault of the lens! It is our capacity to focus at these lightlevels! It is the same problem with the Noctilux!
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
the nokton blocks the lower right quarter of the viewfinder almost completely. with the vented hood it's a bit better, but it has never really distracted me...
On the Ikon, the intrusion is very slight, with or without the hood, and i never really notice it.
nome_alice
Established
thanks for sharing your experiences Tom.
looks like i'll be spending some more money again soon...sigh
looks like i'll be spending some more money again soon...sigh
P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
I know that everyone shoots this lens wide open, but how does it perform at, say f4.0 or 5.6 or even f8? And how big is this lens actually? Can't be as big as my beloved Nikkor 35mm f1.4. I am thinking that this lens could be the end of my hunt for a versatile 35mm lens for my Bessa or a future M.
You know the old one camera/one lens/one film/one developer philosophy that we all dream about. Efke KB25 in Rodinal 1:100 has the film/developer covered, just need to nail down the camera/lens.
Wonder who I am kidding?
You know the old one camera/one lens/one film/one developer philosophy that we all dream about. Efke KB25 in Rodinal 1:100 has the film/developer covered, just need to nail down the camera/lens.
Wonder who I am kidding?
JohnTF
Veteran
You ba5tards stop it right now!
I can't afford another lens!
With the price difference in the US, you can hop a plane and have an excuse to come over to "save" money, my friend in the north sends a few pounds to the US.
Unfortunately, I do not see it dropping much in price, and this was one of only two black Cosina lenses I bought.
At least you should not lose much in value on this one, as it is only a matter of time, I recommend you just bite the bullet. ;-)
You only regret the lenses you do not buy.
There must be one with your name on it somewhere.
Regards, John
dan denmark
No Get Well cards please
personally, i like the feel of its size in my hand. feels like a real lens. i know this is superfluous as i also love my 15 heliar on my Bessa L because it is like nothing at all in my hand and makes for very different photographs. but the 1.2/35 is a solid lens that has all the controls right where my stubby fingers want to go. and it is fast to change, although i prefer to shoot DOF pretty much all the time. and it is also nicely balanced on my M3, equal weights but definitely not a pocket camera combination, that. i started with the ultron 28 1.9 and still love using it in the field but i find the 35 a nice workhorse lens on both film as a 35 and the rd as a 50-ish. 50 is a great focal length often snubbed but it's "rejection" (to use an audio mic term) is fantastic for tight shooting. 35 on film was THE lens of the 70s in my work, though. hard to get past it. definitely worth the money. if you're unsure of 35 as a focal length, get a cheaper one and try it out then trade up to the 1.2 as long as they're available. otherwise, as someone said, bite the bullet...it'll leave a great taste in your mouth. mho.
-dd
-dd
Krosya
Konicaze
morgan
Well-known
It's my favorite lens as well. Jawdropping results. It's a big sucker, but if I know I'll be shooting people, it's the go to lens. It's just that special. And I think Tom is right is right in that the limiting factor is your ability to focus. I love that on my R-D1 it turns into a portrait lens.
ktmrider
Well-known
One on the Way
One on the Way
Well, I have been debating between the 35 1.4 and the 35 1.2 for six months to go with the 35 2.5. I was attracted to the small size of the 1.4 but in the end all the glowing reports of the Nocton 1.2 won out.
In almost forty years in photography, I have never owned a lens faster then f2 so I am looking forward to trying low light with my M. And not being quite as limited on film or shutter speed as with something that is limited to f2. And I am thinking the 2.5 and 1.2 will be so different that I won't mind owning 2 lenses of the same focal length-something that in the past I have very seldom done. If not, I will sell the 35 2.5.
So now I guess it is time to buy a scanner and figure out how to use it. Are black and white films more difficult to scan then the C41 films for black and white (can't remember what they are called.).
One on the Way
Well, I have been debating between the 35 1.4 and the 35 1.2 for six months to go with the 35 2.5. I was attracted to the small size of the 1.4 but in the end all the glowing reports of the Nocton 1.2 won out.
In almost forty years in photography, I have never owned a lens faster then f2 so I am looking forward to trying low light with my M. And not being quite as limited on film or shutter speed as with something that is limited to f2. And I am thinking the 2.5 and 1.2 will be so different that I won't mind owning 2 lenses of the same focal length-something that in the past I have very seldom done. If not, I will sell the 35 2.5.
So now I guess it is time to buy a scanner and figure out how to use it. Are black and white films more difficult to scan then the C41 films for black and white (can't remember what they are called.).
Last edited:
Xax
Established
hi ktmrider!
you should try to scan black and white, in my opinion it's as easy as scanning C41 for black and white, and much easier than color.
you should try to scan black and white, in my opinion it's as easy as scanning C41 for black and white, and much easier than color.
peepete77
Established
Fantastic pictures from threadstarter!!!
ktmrider
Well-known
Thanks for Info about Scanning
Thanks for Info about Scanning
Don't want to take over this thread but thanks for the info on scanning regular black and white negatives. I read or heard somewhere that scanning C41 films was easier and that the grain in b&w films could cause some difficulty. I guess I am going to have to do some research on scanning as I prefer to develop the film myself and go from there.
Don't know how many miles of Tri-X I used up in college and during a short career as a photojournalist but we got to be pretty good at getting it up to ISO 1600-3200.
So can anyone suggest a good book or website with information about scanning. I am still pretty good in a chemical darkroom but totally new to scanning and then printing it digitally. Any reference would be really appreciated.
Thanks for Info about Scanning
Don't want to take over this thread but thanks for the info on scanning regular black and white negatives. I read or heard somewhere that scanning C41 films was easier and that the grain in b&w films could cause some difficulty. I guess I am going to have to do some research on scanning as I prefer to develop the film myself and go from there.
Don't know how many miles of Tri-X I used up in college and during a short career as a photojournalist but we got to be pretty good at getting it up to ISO 1600-3200.
So can anyone suggest a good book or website with information about scanning. I am still pretty good in a chemical darkroom but totally new to scanning and then printing it digitally. Any reference would be really appreciated.
the_jim
human
I bought this lens back when Dubya sent us, hardworking folks, our economic stimulus package. The money didn't quite cover the whole cost, but it got me close enough.
I like many people had lusted after the Nokton for a long time. I had been looking for a lens that could compete with the Nikon 35mm f/1.4 Ai-S. I also have the ZM Biogon 35/2 and it is a great lens, but it renders in a way that has taken some getting used to for me. I loved the Nokton right away and never felt bothered by its size/weight.
samples:
Wide open at 1/4 with Kodak 160 NC
wide open at 1/15 with Neopan 400
at 1.4 with Neopan 400. Focus was on the hand.
I like many people had lusted after the Nokton for a long time. I had been looking for a lens that could compete with the Nikon 35mm f/1.4 Ai-S. I also have the ZM Biogon 35/2 and it is a great lens, but it renders in a way that has taken some getting used to for me. I loved the Nokton right away and never felt bothered by its size/weight.
samples:
Wide open at 1/4 with Kodak 160 NC

wide open at 1/15 with Neopan 400

at 1.4 with Neopan 400. Focus was on the hand.

lngu81
Established
yup....finally I ordered a new 35mm f1.2 from Scott-Sydney-Mainline photography, I can't wait to lay my hand on it in 6 days...yay!
nome_alice
Established
yup....finally I ordered a new 35mm f1.2 from Scott-Sydney-Mainline photography, I can't wait to lay my hand on it in 6 days...yay!
i didn't see the 35/1.2 on mainlinephoto website when i looked the other day. what price they do you for?
lngu81
Established
Yeh, it's not on the website, give him a call and order the lense, it's 25% deposit and he's selling it for $Aud 995!!!
dan denmark
No Get Well cards please
got my 35/1.2 from scott several months ago, paid $A9xx i think it was, can't really remember. sometimes with mainline you have to ask for some products. they have a fairly regular turnover there, not always on top of the website. bought all but one CV lens from mainline, about eight i think i have now. great to deal with.
-dd
-dd
nome_alice
Established
cool. i give em a call. i've bought a few things from them before and have been pleased with the service.
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