Thinking of starting to develop myself...

[laptoprob]

Jobo UniTank 1520... Sounds like some military apparatus!
Thanks for the tip.

Rob.

 

[Justin Low]

Rob,

If you are getting a tank, get a Jobo UniTank 1520; don't beat about the bush; that's from someone who has been through more types of tanks than he would want to admit :bang:

I second Seele's recommendation. I've used Paterson tanks and reels (as well as AP ones) in addition to stainless steel tanks and reels before I switched to Jobo.

I feel that the Jobo reels have all the ease of loading Paterson reels, without any of the jamming. The tank itself is well made, and it doesn't leak, unlike my stainless steel ones. The locking mechanism is much easier to use in a darkbag and you can't cross-thread the top.

Well worth the additional cost. Make sure you pick up an additional reel if you do get a #1520, as that only comes with one reel by default.

 

[RayPA]

...Being new to developing film, some of the time/temperature controls can be pretty daunting. Some developers require VERY tight control of both, even to the point of closely controlling the time necessary to pour the developer from the tank...

Tom

I think this is a myth. Sorry DiafineMan. No offense meant. 🙂 It is not that daunting to bring and hold chemistry to a temperature. Pour times matter, but not that much, especially if you are consistent. If you are consistent in your approach, then you'll get consistent results. Sure Diafine is easier, but beginners interested in developing their own film should learn about the variables that effect the film developing process and how to control those variables and use them to their advantage. Unless you are just not into that. But we're talking adding a thermometer to the list and maybe a small tub to control temps.

Since it seems like every developer is compared to the results of D76/ID11 (because of its popularity), using it is a great place to start to understand the development process, and how other developers will react. I like Todd's mix of developers (D76, Rodinal and Xtol)—state of the art solvent, one of the oldest known developers (and a liquid concentrate), and good old, D76.

I try to see where cost would matter, but as a penniless student many years ago, D76 was always in my apartment. Go whichever way you want but don't discount the whole range of available developers for the sake of something as easy as contolling temperature, pour times and agitation.

 

[back alley]

that's incredible!

so my batch of soup will last about 18 months easy and that's it?
no wonder the local camera store stopped selling it, they'd go broke!! lol

joe

 

[XAos]

I keep thinking about Rodinal after seeing this thread here:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4441&highlight=nikkor+tri-x

 

[julianphotoart]

Contrarian: Microdol-X rools, ok?

Contrarian: Microdol-X rools, ok?

I am definitely going against the grain, but here's my 2-cents: (1) Microdol-X because it produces fine-grain negatives and the time it takes to develope (i.e. longer than most) might make it more foregiving for someone new to things; (2) steel tanks and reels -- it's worth wasting a few films to get the procedure right. Agfa 25 with Microdol-X was so fine that 11x14 prints looked like medium format. Ilford Pan 50 with Microdol-X is also real good. Obviously I go for fine grain over everything. Maybe I'm prejudiced because I've always used Microdol-X. As good ol' AA said, the negative is "the score", remember. Later, with VC printing and toners one can create any type of atmosphere during the printing stage (as AA also said, the print is "the performance"). I personally don't care too much about the cost of chemicals because they are cheap regardless and because the quality of the negatives you get when you do it yourself is soooooo superior that it's worth it at twice the price.

 

[Seele]

I second Seele's recommendation. I've used Paterson tanks and reels (as well as AP ones) in addition to stainless steel tanks and reels before I switched to Jobo.

I feel that the Jobo reels have all the ease of loading Paterson reels, without any of the jamming. The tank itself is well made, and it doesn't leak, unlike my stainless steel ones. The locking mechanism is much easier to use in a darkbag and you can't cross-thread the top.

Well worth the additional cost. Make sure you pick up an additional reel if you do get a #1520, as that only comes with one reel by default.

In addition to your points, Jobo has the advantage of being completely modular and convertible. Add a magnetic drive to the bottom, you can use it for rotary processing with a Jobo processing machine. You want to take more spirals, add an extension piece between the tank and the lid. Take out the centre shaft, replace the funnel under the lid with the cup, you get a print processing drum: with the Jobo system you need not duplicate any purchase.

Of course, Jobo is much more economical with chemicals. Manual processing of one roll of 35mm film needs 250ml of solution, rather than 290 as for Paterson; get a half-litre colour processing kit and live in bliss. The additional cost over the Paterson might be small, but further down the line, you will find that you have saved a lot of money.

 

[laptoprob]

Thanks a million for your explanations and advice. I got a Jobo rotating gizmo with tank and everything from an aereal photo company that obviously turned digital.
Only pick it up and I'm on my way.
Watch the postings to come!

Rob.