Tmax400 & Microdol X

[Tom hicks]

Developed my first rolls of film yesterday, Had to use what the local camera shop had in stock.
Microdol X 04 date
Kodak pro Fixer
Pro Indicator Stop Bath

After developing , I don't really understand why I procrastinated doing it for 6 months. It was quite easy, My temps were not what they should have been, around 75 f for all . I think I just got lucky.

I shot the 400 at 200 and developed normally Don't really know what I was after , so next time I shoot at 400 and develop normally so I have a baseline.

I understand Microdol has been discontinued (Just my luck ) I understand though, that Legacy Pro has something similar.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/749710-LegacyPro-Mic-X-Film-Developer-to-Make-1-Gallon?cat_id=301

I'm happy with the results . I'm not much for heavy grain , but maybe I'm just overjoyed that I got anything out at all that seemed to work . I'm thinking of going to HC110 . Is there any one fixer that works with this better than another?

These first images were taken with my Minolta SR7

 

[Tom hicks]

Second set are from my Ziess Contina Metered

 

[Nokton48]

I like those, too. Microdol-X has been discontinued, but I'm switching over to the Legacy from Freestyle.

Nice results! I use Kodak and Ilford fixers, they are about the same. Using one that has a hardener in it is a good idea, but any of them work just as well.

 

[charjohncarter]

Also from Freestyle is Arista Odorless Fixer in concentrate. I buy it to keep my wife happy. It ends up being expensive; I use 50cc and then add water to make 500cc. With Tmax400 (TMY-2) it needs 8 minutes of fixing, and I have never had a fixer related problem. I also use HC-110h which ends up being cheap. I think that comes out to be 7.8cc to make a 500cc solution. It will do two rolls of 24-135 (35mm). I have never tried two of 36-135 but I bet it would work. These are done at 11:45 with 30 seconds initial agitation and the 3 inversions every 3 minutes (10,7,4,1) at 68 degrees. It is pretty simple, but one deviation is I use EI (ISO) of 250.

 

[shadowfox]

Welcome to the craft.
And really nice results!

 

[Mackinaw]

....Sad that Microdol X is discontinued; I used to use that and Diafine quit a bit back in the day. Haven't touched either since though.

Freestyle "LegacyPro Mic-X Film Developer" is supposed to be the same as Microdol-X.

Jim B.

 

[Tom hicks]

Thanks all for the pats on the back, it was a good feeling to know I got some fairly good results . I will try some of the Legacy pro Mic-x .

 

[Tom hicks]

Also from Freestyle is Arista Odorless Fixer in concentrate. I buy it to keep my wife happy. It ends up being expensive; I use 50cc and then add water to make 500cc. With Tmax400 (TMY-2) it needs 8 minutes of fixing, and I have never had a fixer related problem. I also use HC-110h which ends up being cheap. I think that comes out to be 7.8cc to make a 500cc solution. It will do two rolls of 24-135 (35mm). I have never tried two of 36-135 but I bet it would work. These are done at 11:45 with 30 seconds initial agitation and the 3 inversions every 3 minutes (10,7,4,1) at 68 degrees. It is pretty simple, but one deviation is I use EI (ISO) of 250.

Thanks John for the reply , it was your pic of some tulips up against a door that was the final push to try developing this stuff myself . this was just before Rover post your and chris's work flow .

One question on the Tmax 400 are you shooting it at 400 but developing at the 250 times or are you shooting it at 250 and then developing it normally.

Tom

 

[Nokton48]

Some additional info regarding Microdol-X. You can make a Microdol-X Replenisher, by doing the following:

1 gallon package of Legacy Mic-X (Freestyle)
Add to 2 US Quarts of Hot Water (90-100F)
Add 24 grams of Sodium Carbonate (Photographers Formulary or Artcraft Chemicals)
Add water to bring volume up to three US Quarts.

That's It! Eastman Kodak recommends a replenishment rate of 30ml of replenisher per 135-36 roll of B&W film.

This info comes from Kodak publication J-4027 (KODAK MICRODOL-X Developer).
Microdol-X lasts for years in a sealed bottle, and actually gets better with time, as it "seasons". Works for me!

 

[charjohncarter]

Thanks John for the reply , it was your pic of some tulips up against a door that was the final push to try developing this stuff myself . this was just before Rover post your and chris's work flow .

One question on the Tmax 400 are you shooting it at 400 but developing at the 250 times or are you shooting it at 250 and then developing it normally.

Tom

I little closer to normal, I would say down 7-8%, as I do shoot very low contrast or overcast, open shade scenes on the same roll as bright sun scenes. This leaves my 250s a very small amount overdeveloped but it does not blow the highlights (well very often and that is mostly metering error). Tmax400 is picky about exposure so be careful.

I happen to like my HC-110h + Rodinal mix, but really any available developer will do just fine if you spend extra time refining your process. It is too bad about Microdol X because you really are there with a now unavailable developer.

 

[Tim Gray]

Nice results. Congratulations.

I'd go for a liquid rapid fixer. Faster fix times and faster wash times.

 

[Tom hicks]

Here are few more from the same rolls . Exposure on a few were off, but it's letting me know how it all reacts.

 

[Tom hicks]

Few more for those interested.

 

[Tom hicks]

Shot another roll of Tmax and processed it in Microdol -X , Still shot film at 200 ISO but instead of developing for 7.5 min. I developed for 6 . My inversions went from 5 to 3 every 30 sec . Iwas not sure how much if any it was going to make but here is the results . T max my be to contrasty for me , Tri X may be better for me , I need to find some other low contrast film to play with .

Camera used was a new to me Bell and Howell FD 35 ( Canon 's TX Model ) 1975. Got it yesterday, slapped in some film and shot.

 

[Tom hicks]

And the last from this roll. I'm Ok with the tone of the images but not the blown areas. I sure it is my fault , new camera trusting it's meter , that sort of thing.

Thanks Tom

 

[tlitody]

Some alternative developers to try with Delta 400. Haven't tested TMax yet.
All give fairly similar curves which control highlights well.
Slightly softish contrast making them easy to print or scan.

EI 200 - Tetenal Ultrafin Plus 1+5 for 8 mins at 20 deg C

EI 200 - ID11 1+2 for 14 mins at 20 deg C

EI 200 - Perceptol 1+2 for 12 mins at 24 deg C

The tetenal ultrafin plus gives very straight curve so has best shadow separation.

ID11 gives hint of and S curve

Perceptol is finest grained and gives best highlight control if subject contrast is extreme. Shadows are slightly compressed but better mid to highlight separation.

Perceptol is very similar to Microdol-X in that it is an ultra fine grain developer.

My agitation routine is to agitate for first first 30 second then 3 inversions every minute.

 

[Nokton48]

Tom,
You might want to consider switching to Tri-X, if you plan to stay with the Microdol-X. That's what i use (along with Eastman XX 5222) and I'm happy with the combo.

 

[Tim Gray]

Tom - if you are having troubles with contrast, I have to comments:

First, make sure it's not in your scanning process that you aren't clipping your highlights. I'm going to wager that this is the most likely culprit.

Second, don't find some other 'low contrast' film. I'm not sure TMY is any more or less contrasty than Tri-X, Delta 400, HP5+, etc. They are all capable of high and low contrast results - most of it depends on how you expose and develop. If you don't like TMY, that's fine, but if you are having contrast problems with it, don't toss it. Just reduce your development time some more. Or use a different developer.

If you want finer grain and want to stick with a 400 speed film, try TMY in XTOL 1:1. It's very fine grained and gives great results. You're probably going to have to find a replacement for your dev anyway since it's been discontinued. I'd start there.

Here's a recent shot with that combo. If you want to see it large, right click on it and select 'original', and you'll get the 4000 dpi scan.


. by ezwal, on Flickr

 

[Tom hicks]

Hi Tim , thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the info as well , you may be right about the clipping , I'll rescan some and play with that. I'm fine with the current grain it is fine enough. I will try some of the other dev as I keep getting my feet wet. This was only my 3rd attempt at dev so i'm feeling pretty lucky to get what I have . there are so many combos it can get overwhelming. I sure I will have more ?

Tom

 

[Tom hicks]

Tom,
You might want to consider switching to Tri-X, if you plan to stay with the Microdol-X. That's what i use (along with Eastman XX 5222) and I'm happy with the combo.

Thanks Dan I have some coming , and look forward to shooting it . This is going to become addictive . Shoot dev and scan in a matter of hrs and don't have to go to the camera store.

Tom