To M6 or not to M6?

meeker said:
Bill - I already have a CV 35 and 50 (Ultron and Nokton) - they're amazing, and
picked up s/h for ~$200 each.

all you need are the M mounts, (adaptors)

if you can get the Leica ones they bring up the v/f lines - not sure about the CV adaptors
 
I've owned a bunch of different rangefinders from Voigtlander, Canon and Leica over the years (as well as a good few Soviets) and the M6 classic is the one I've taken most pictures with – and the one I would never part with. I much prefer this model to the TTL version, not least because the shutter dial turns in the direction I'm used to from other cameras (I also like the two-element display more than the three-element version in the TTL).

Personally I rather like using handheld meters, and continue to use a small Sekonic Twinmate in incident mode when shooting slide film in the M6, but there's no escaping the fact that a built in meter can make for way faster shooting in changing light conditions, so if you're coming from a Bessa an M6 would certainly feel more familiar than an unmetered model. I say go for it...
 
well then - that's decided - an M6 Classic - plenty good ones about

next question Black or Silver, (Chrome)

are your CV lenses - black or silver?
 
Progress! The Nokton 50 is black, and the Ultron 35 is silver. My r is black.
I am leaning towards another black body. Since there is a longer rf baselength
on the m6, I'm guessing it makes sense to run the 50 on the m6 most of
the time.

Gandy's site says the viewfinder is cluttered - what lines are brought up when
you attach a 50 or 35?

meeker
 
Good luck with your search for an M6. I have had mine for close on ten years and not a moments regret. I too consider it a lifetime investment. The black finish holds up really well too.
 
meeker said:
Progress! The Nokton 50 is black, and the Ultron 35 is silver. My r is black.
I am leaning towards another black body. Since there is a longer rf baselength
on the m6, I'm guessing it makes sense to run the 50 on the m6 most of
the time.

Gandy's site says the viewfinder is cluttered - what lines are brought up when
you attach a 50 or 35?

meeker

It is not cluttered - in my opionion

The 35 is nice - brings up the 35 and well the 35 - the 135 hardly clutters anything


The Book says - with the Leica lenses - 35 & 135 - 28 and 90 - 50 & 75
 
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Being very new to the forum yet a long time RF'r, my vote would be to buy a user body that meets your requirements and high quality glass. From your post, the meter is important to you, so the M6 is a great choice. Once you handle it a while, you aren't going to leave the system, so the glass you buy will be with you for a long while.

I started with an ugly yet most functional M2. I still have it and it's still a favorite. Covering since replaced so now it's pretty as the metal was perfect.

BTW, this is a great forum.
 
I think an LHSA M6 would be a great shooter. It depends if you are the type of person that likes to break in their own camera. You would be paying about $500 in my addition for that right. I like to take care of my stuff even if it is in user condition. I haven't seen many M6s for $800. I see a lot of M3s and M2s for that price. Mostly the M6s that I've seen have been between $1000-$1100 with a couple extra hundred for good condition. The only functional difference that I can see with the M6 LHSA is the reduced number of frame lines. Are you someone who loves 28mm?
 
sirius said:
I haven't seen many M6s for $800. I see a lot of M3s and M2s for that price. Mostly the M6s that I've seen have been between $1000-$1100 with a couple extra hundred for good condition.



That is nearer the mark - my $800 to $900 was a little under
 
sirius said:
Bill, if you see one for $8-900 let me know! 😉

Prices in June on EBay in the UK for Black and Chrome, (Silver), Classics ranged from £340 to about £620 for a mint, but unboxed

All the "Boxed" ones were about £575 to £700 - mostly around £600

Multiply by 1.95, (I think), to get to $

I thought that they were cheaper in the US
 
Meeker: ZI is really in the class with M6 and not Bessa (in my opinion). I would say that its built quality is superb. Not only that its range finder base is loner than M6's, hence, more precise for focusing, but it is much brighter than M6's. ZI's shutter is not as quiet as M6's but quite quiet. For me, the film loading on ZI is much easier than on M6.
Based on what people say in this forum who have both Leica and ZI, they seem to prefer ZI. Anyway, the best advice I can give is to try all the cameras you are considering and decide which one is best for you. That is what I did and I chose a ZI.
Good luck,
Zoran
 
tightsqueez said:
You simply cannot go wrong with the M6. I've had mine for about eight years now and it's been through everything: dropped countless times, used in downpours, left on the beach while the tide came in, survived the Iraq war twice and still works as when I bought it. It has never been cleaned or adjusted, just used and abused. And what is this talk about an M being "Posh"? If most users would see what I do to my M6/M7/M8, they'd cry.

The M6 is probably the best deal within the Leica M series that you can get. I wouldn't sell mine for 10k!

I really don't care how you abuse your cameras. So irrelevant.
How about makin' me cry with some pictures?
 
I think the TTL has advantages over the classic in the shutter speed dial. What is "wrong-way" to those classic leica users feels "right-way" to me. I do like that it turns more easily with the camera to the eye (I'm using the M7 and a classic M6 here as comparison) and in the direction indicated by the light balance display.

Just 2 more ¢.
 
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