Tri-X - which developer? HC-110?

spkennedy3000 said:
Hi Roger,

No need to apologise, I have certainly learned something from the theory discussion, and yes you are right I did say that. From the earlier part of the thread it seems that HC-110 is a perfectly appropriate choice (I was not sure before).

So I think therefore that because I cannot replicate the photos I just want to feel a little more confident in the "recipe" for Tri-x and HC-110, I just want some confirmed times and temperatures and solutions....

Thanks very much,

Simon
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There is nothing wrong with TriX developed in HC-110. Developers are just tools, you will get great photos from this combination, just as you would with almost any other developer. The slight differences that may or may not exist are eaten up by slightly wrong exposure, and slight mistakes during every part of the process. You originally wanted some starting times, so I hope my previous post was helpful.
 
I found it hard to better the results I got with Xtol when using Tri-X ... they seemed like a great match to me!

I'm puzzled by the occasional comment about Xtol being a chore to mix and store and consequently a developer like Rodinal with it's ability to be drawn off in minimal quantity with a syringe for each processing is seen as being preferable. Putting five litres of water into a bucket and stirring in some powder until it's disolved then transfering the contents to containers doesn't seem exactly complicated or labour intensive to me ... the same for D76.

If photography was all about pure convenience surely we'd all be using DSLR's and not messing around with chemicals in the first place. :D
 
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Keith said:
I found it hard to better the results I got with Xtol when using Tri-X ... they seemed like a great match to me!

I'm puzzled by the occasional comment about Xtol being a chore to mix and store and consequently a developer like Rodinal with it's ability to be drawn off in minimal quantity with a syringe for each processing is seen as being preferable. Putting five litres of water into a bucket and stirring in some powder until it's disolved then transfering the contents to containers doesn't seem exactly complicated or labour intensive to me ... the same for D76.

If photography was all about pure convenience surely we'd all be using DSLR's and not messing around with chemicals in the first place. :D
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Maybe the higher temperatures in queensland make D-76 or Xtol easier to mix! :p
I find them both an absolute pain in the ass to mix... neither want to dissolve properly, I end up having to dip the bucket in a sink of the hottest water my water heater can generate, while stirring the bejesus out of it for the better part of 15 minutes, and even then they never fully dissolve. I don't know, maybe I'm doing something wrong, but for me rodinal and LC29 are easier to use and give equivalent, if not better results.
 
spkennedy3000 said:
Dear all,

Thanks a lot for the info and theory discussion.
So far I have been successful developing film, something I have only been doing for a couple of years. But the reason I have been successful (I think)is that I measure times and temperatures accurately, and vary one thing at a time to look for improvements. This is all shooting neopan.

I decided to try Tri-X on a recent trip to Barcelona, so although I recognise the need to experiment what I really want are confirmations (based on experience) of dilutions and development times with HC-110, as there seems no reason not to use it except for lack of clarity on timings.

I need a confirmed recipe to start with so I can vary from there, I have film shot in a foreign country so I really need something I can be reasonably confident in, I cannot replicate the shots.

While the theory on developers uses and effects is interesting it is not really helping me.

Thanks,

Simon
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OK, let me see if I can help. One confirmed recipe for Tri-X shot at iso 400 is dilution e. The Massive Development chart recommends developing Tri-X at 400 in dilution e for 8 mins. at 68F; I've found that works pretty well, although others have obtained good results from shorter dev times, or from using dilution h, which gives you somewhat more control b/c the dev time is longer and you can fine-tune your agitation. Now, I'm not saying that Tri-X in HC110 dil. e is the cat's meow, only that I like it, it worked for me, it's pretty reliable, and here are some examples. If you're going for a different look, it may not work for you. YMMV.

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4054296179_5574e9955e_o.jpg


4062695557_e559722afd_o.jpg
 
I can never seem to get D-76 cmpletely disolved with ten minutes of stirring, but leave it overnight and it finishes disolving. You particular water hardness, ph, etc. might be causing the problem. If having a bit of percipitate in the bottom of your developer jug bothers you then run it through a coffee filter.
 
One thing I have discovered with these granulated developers is to make sure the water is really swirling as you add the powder very slowly! The instant it forms clumps you're in trouble!
 
Lately I've been souping my Tri-X in HC-110 dilution H.
Exposed at EI 400, about nine minutes (forgot to check my watch a few times), agitating slightly (gripping the top, and swinging the bottom around a bit) for two seconds every 30 seconds, ~68 degrees.

 
robinsonphotography said:
I used HC110 for a bit, but switched to Rodinal not to long ago and am much happier--I'd recommend giving it a try......with HC110 I just didn't get as predictable results as I did with Rodinal and I had many more problems with blown highlights, which looked awful.
Click to expand...

I use both developers -- Rodinal gives a
grainier look, and so I tend to use HC110
when shooting roll film, and Rodinal when
shooting sheets.
 
Al Kaplan said:
"The lousier your negatives the better the printer you'll become!"
Click to expand...
Is this the photography equivalent of the audiophile dictum (at least from J. Gordon Holt) of "The lousier the recording, the better the performance?"

I'll crawl into bed now, pondering all this for a little bit.


- Barrett
 
I love using HC-110. I use Dilution H @ 12:00 min @ 75 degrees F. I agitate once when I pour with 4 inversions and three taps, and then at 6:00 min with same inversions and taps.

I use a water bath, changed out twice in 2:00 min, instead of a stop bath

Then Ilford rapid fixer for 3:00 min with normal agitation

Followed by the Ilford wash method , and finally distilled water with Kodak photo flow. I get no streaks or mineral deposits on my negs this way. And you're really only using HC-110 and Ilford Rapid fixer as your chemicals, because the nasty stop bath isn't required when using such a diluted ratio of HC-110. Keep everything at 75 degrees however. Works for me!
 
Dear all,

Thanks very much indeed for all the info - I now feel more confident to go ahead and develop these films.

All the best,

Simon
 
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