Two S3 questions

JonR

JonR

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Just bought a S3 camera body. Two questions:

1. There are three main bright frames in the viewfinder.... I guess they are 35 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm --- is that right !? But then there are also indications of smaller frames within all three of them through some bright small "triangles" -- what is that !?

2. I bought the camera without a everyday case --- any suggestions on what case could work with a S3 today, what do you people use since it is not that easy to find original cases in good condition!

Appreacite your comments on this!
Any other important things to remember regarding the S3 before I start to test it!

Thanks!

Jon
 
JonR said:
Just bought a S3 camera body. Two questions:

1. There are three main bright frames in the viewfinder.... I guess they are 35 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm --- is that right !? But then there are also indications of smaller frames within all three of them through some bright small "triangles" -- what is that !?
Click to expand...

Yup, 35, 50, 105....the "smaller frames within" are for infinity

2. I bought the camera without a everyday case --- any suggestions on what case could work with a S3 today, what do you people use since it is not that easy to find original cases in good condition!
Click to expand...

Well....I just got a half-case and strap from Luigi at Leicatime...😀 😀 😀 , worth every penny, looks good, feels good, smells good and greatly improves the handling of the camera. I've seen original cases going on ebay for close to the cost of Luigi's cases and his are much better.

I also got a soft release for mine and it's made it much easier and quicker for me. I always seemed to fumble trying to find the shutter release before that...but then I use alot of different cameras so haven't developed any muscle memory for the S3....enjoy your new toy/tool....
 
Thanks for comments!!

As for the cases - I did try the FM2 and EM cases which I had at home but none of them worked well but I guess I will just have to continue looking. Unfortunately there are few stores here in Stockholm with old cases so it might take some time! I agree that 170 USD for a new Luigi case is much more than I want to spend on this - I just want a case to be able to protect the body when bringing it with me!

Jon
 
Wrong
Click to expand...
- they are of course parallax markings for close distances focusing (between 3m and 0.9m).
Click to expand...

OOPS. Sorry about that Jon and thanks F2......got wrong info and passed it along, I'm fairly new to this also. 😱

I wouldn't drop $170 in a Luigi case. I don't think this would make me take better pictures.
Click to expand...

who ever said it would...
 
Inspired by the suggestions above to test various cases I have found the Yashica Minister actually having a very good fit provided that you remove the screw in the bottom. Will work perfectly as protection as least until I find a OK priced original and it is actually from the same time period 😀 😀

Jon
 
The little markings in the finder are indeed for close parallax. One of the most important things you learn from the S3 viewfinder is that parallax is not that big a deal, even at the 3-foot minimum focus distance. You need to shoot a little "loose" with a telephoto, but otherwise, parallax effect is not too significant.

I find the S3 viewfinder to be a fascinating display of the relationships between lenses and parallax. The whole field of view outside the etched frames is approximately a 25mm lens.
 
By the way, I have found that the little parallax mark for the 105mm frame is actually pretty accurate for framing a 135mm lens.
 
Vince
I love your comments....

You say that the whole field view outside the etched frames is more or less corresponding to a 25 mm lens --> great, will try that with my SC Scopar 21mm

You say that the little parallax marks for the 105 mm lens is pretty much like the 135 mm lens -->great, will try that with my Nikkor 135 mm lens

Also - interesting comments made by several of you regarding leather cases not being good for cameras. I have had leather cases (at least the body part so to say) on my Nikkormat, EM, FG20 and FM2 cameras for 20 years without noticing anything at all but you probably have a point here. At the same time I am pretty sure it must also have to do with the climate zoone you live in and fungus between the leather case and camera body in Sweden given our relatively dry and cold climate is probably not a big issue !??

As to the comments about the danger to use old straps I fully agree -- I allmost "lost" my S2 due to that some time ago.... the actual case for the body is OK but the strap was in really poor condition so I had to change that one!

/Jon
 
Don't want to start a war, but in my opinion camera cases are a waste of time and money.
The camera I've owned the longest is a motorized F2AS that I got used back in 1988. It was already brassy and dinged when I got it, and I've been lugging it around on the streets for the last 19 years (gosh is it really that long?) caseless, and it still looks and works fine. (Well it looks fine to me.)
It's been bumped, banged, soaked, scorched, frozen and dropped a couple of times and still soldiers on. Similarly my motorized F and FA.
So when I got the S3 back in December, I decided to treat it the same as my SLRs.
For me, it's a tool for taking photographs not an investment, heirloom or religious artifact to be adored or worshipped, and as such, common sense, rather than leather cases is the way to go.
 
-->great, will try that with my Nikkor 135 mm lens
Click to expand...

The 105mm parallax etch mark works fairly well for eyeballing the top left frame of a 135mm. And for close focusing with the 135mm lens, you can frame the opposite corner using the lower right corner of the solid 105mm frame.

This isn't pefect. But the 1:1 finder makes it pretty easy to focus and shoot a 135mm lens.
 
I'm also a grunge-camera person. I never use "never-ready" cases. But I also know many people really like cases. And they do keep old cameras looking nice. So in this respect, to each his or her own.
 
Some types of rubbers are handy, but as we have a family sort of site, we will not go there.

I try hard to treat my stuff with respect, but not at the cost of missing a shot. While I've used cameras with "Never Ready" cases attached, I've never liked them. As pointed out here before, way to slow to reload and it seems my luck will never change. Great things will alway start to happen around the 34th frame. They also add bulk to my cameras, which by nature I hate. I want to carry the least possible.

B2 (;->
 
I have nerve damage to the tips of my thumb, index, middle and ring fingers of my right hand. 🙁 The half cases on my Bessa and S3 (and soon on the S2) enable me to get a sure grip. BUT.... on any of my cameras that have bodies that let me get a good grip due to larger size or protuberances, well.....BY GOD... I don't have cases on them....😀
 
Kiu - Of course!!

Here it is together with my other two Nikon Rangefinders - makes a great set the S2, S3 and the NHS Special version Bessa R2S with a Nikon 5cm & 13,5 cm together with the Voigtlander 21 mm Scopar and the 50 mm Heliar!

/jon

 
😀
Well - sorry not possible right now, at work and had this photo available but no closeup´s.... May come later with some feedback on having tested out the S3 and the 21 mm which are the two new additions this Summer!

Summer project from a photo perspective include two very different ambitions - really testing out the S3 with the 21 mm to see if I like it (never having really liked wide angel lenses at all) and becoming skilled in using my D80+105 Micro AFS VR for macro situation!

/jon
 
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