JonR
Well-known
Just bought a S3 camera body. Two questions:
1. There are three main bright frames in the viewfinder.... I guess they are 35 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm --- is that right !? But then there are also indications of smaller frames within all three of them through some bright small "triangles" -- what is that !?
2. I bought the camera without a everyday case --- any suggestions on what case could work with a S3 today, what do you people use since it is not that easy to find original cases in good condition!
Appreacite your comments on this!
Any other important things to remember regarding the S3 before I start to test it!
Thanks!
Jon
1. There are three main bright frames in the viewfinder.... I guess they are 35 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm --- is that right !? But then there are also indications of smaller frames within all three of them through some bright small "triangles" -- what is that !?
2. I bought the camera without a everyday case --- any suggestions on what case could work with a S3 today, what do you people use since it is not that easy to find original cases in good condition!
Appreacite your comments on this!
Any other important things to remember regarding the S3 before I start to test it!
Thanks!
Jon
csxcnj
Well-known
JonR said:Just bought a S3 camera body. Two questions:
1. There are three main bright frames in the viewfinder.... I guess they are 35 mm, 50 mm and 105 mm --- is that right !? But then there are also indications of smaller frames within all three of them through some bright small "triangles" -- what is that !?
Yup, 35, 50, 105....the "smaller frames within" are for infinity
2. I bought the camera without a everyday case --- any suggestions on what case could work with a S3 today, what do you people use since it is not that easy to find original cases in good condition!
Well....I just got a half-case and strap from Luigi at Leicatime...
I also got a soft release for mine and it's made it much easier and quicker for me. I always seemed to fumble trying to find the shutter release before that...but then I use alot of different cameras so haven't developed any muscle memory for the S3....enjoy your new toy/tool....
JonR
Well-known
Thanks for comments!!
As for the cases - I did try the FM2 and EM cases which I had at home but none of them worked well but I guess I will just have to continue looking. Unfortunately there are few stores here in Stockholm with old cases so it might take some time! I agree that 170 USD for a new Luigi case is much more than I want to spend on this - I just want a case to be able to protect the body when bringing it with me!
Jon
As for the cases - I did try the FM2 and EM cases which I had at home but none of them worked well but I guess I will just have to continue looking. Unfortunately there are few stores here in Stockholm with old cases so it might take some time! I agree that 170 USD for a new Luigi case is much more than I want to spend on this - I just want a case to be able to protect the body when bringing it with me!
Jon
csxcnj
Well-known
Wrong
- they are of course parallax markings for close distances focusing (between 3m and 0.9m).
OOPS. Sorry about that Jon and thanks F2......got wrong info and passed it along, I'm fairly new to this also.
I wouldn't drop $170 in a Luigi case. I don't think this would make me take better pictures.
who ever said it would...
csxcnj
Well-known
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/800511407-USE/Nikon__Case_for_SP_Rangefinder.html
KEH grading is usually on the conservative side, bargin items are usually better that the name implies:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductList.aspx?Mode=&item=0&ActivateTOC2=&BC=NR&BCC=8&ID=102&CC=32&CCC=24&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
KEH grading is usually on the conservative side, bargin items are usually better that the name implies:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductList.aspx?Mode=&item=0&ActivateTOC2=&BC=NR&BCC=8&ID=102&CC=32&CCC=24&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
JonR
Well-known
Inspired by the suggestions above to test various cases I have found the Yashica Minister actually having a very good fit provided that you remove the screw in the bottom. Will work perfectly as protection as least until I find a OK priced original and it is actually from the same time period
Jon
Jon
VinceC
Veteran
The little markings in the finder are indeed for close parallax. One of the most important things you learn from the S3 viewfinder is that parallax is not that big a deal, even at the 3-foot minimum focus distance. You need to shoot a little "loose" with a telephoto, but otherwise, parallax effect is not too significant.
I find the S3 viewfinder to be a fascinating display of the relationships between lenses and parallax. The whole field of view outside the etched frames is approximately a 25mm lens.
I find the S3 viewfinder to be a fascinating display of the relationships between lenses and parallax. The whole field of view outside the etched frames is approximately a 25mm lens.
VinceC
Veteran
By the way, I have found that the little parallax mark for the 105mm frame is actually pretty accurate for framing a 135mm lens.
JonR
Well-known
Vince
I love your comments....
You say that the whole field view outside the etched frames is more or less corresponding to a 25 mm lens --> great, will try that with my SC Scopar 21mm
You say that the little parallax marks for the 105 mm lens is pretty much like the 135 mm lens -->great, will try that with my Nikkor 135 mm lens
Also - interesting comments made by several of you regarding leather cases not being good for cameras. I have had leather cases (at least the body part so to say) on my Nikkormat, EM, FG20 and FM2 cameras for 20 years without noticing anything at all but you probably have a point here. At the same time I am pretty sure it must also have to do with the climate zoone you live in and fungus between the leather case and camera body in Sweden given our relatively dry and cold climate is probably not a big issue !??
As to the comments about the danger to use old straps I fully agree -- I allmost "lost" my S2 due to that some time ago.... the actual case for the body is OK but the strap was in really poor condition so I had to change that one!
/Jon
I love your comments....
You say that the whole field view outside the etched frames is more or less corresponding to a 25 mm lens --> great, will try that with my SC Scopar 21mm
You say that the little parallax marks for the 105 mm lens is pretty much like the 135 mm lens -->great, will try that with my Nikkor 135 mm lens
Also - interesting comments made by several of you regarding leather cases not being good for cameras. I have had leather cases (at least the body part so to say) on my Nikkormat, EM, FG20 and FM2 cameras for 20 years without noticing anything at all but you probably have a point here. At the same time I am pretty sure it must also have to do with the climate zoone you live in and fungus between the leather case and camera body in Sweden given our relatively dry and cold climate is probably not a big issue !??
As to the comments about the danger to use old straps I fully agree -- I allmost "lost" my S2 due to that some time ago.... the actual case for the body is OK but the strap was in really poor condition so I had to change that one!
/Jon
rbsinto
Well-known
Don't want to start a war, but in my opinion camera cases are a waste of time and money.
The camera I've owned the longest is a motorized F2AS that I got used back in 1988. It was already brassy and dinged when I got it, and I've been lugging it around on the streets for the last 19 years (gosh is it really that long?) caseless, and it still looks and works fine. (Well it looks fine to me.)
It's been bumped, banged, soaked, scorched, frozen and dropped a couple of times and still soldiers on. Similarly my motorized F and FA.
So when I got the S3 back in December, I decided to treat it the same as my SLRs.
For me, it's a tool for taking photographs not an investment, heirloom or religious artifact to be adored or worshipped, and as such, common sense, rather than leather cases is the way to go.
The camera I've owned the longest is a motorized F2AS that I got used back in 1988. It was already brassy and dinged when I got it, and I've been lugging it around on the streets for the last 19 years (gosh is it really that long?) caseless, and it still looks and works fine. (Well it looks fine to me.)
It's been bumped, banged, soaked, scorched, frozen and dropped a couple of times and still soldiers on. Similarly my motorized F and FA.
So when I got the S3 back in December, I decided to treat it the same as my SLRs.
For me, it's a tool for taking photographs not an investment, heirloom or religious artifact to be adored or worshipped, and as such, common sense, rather than leather cases is the way to go.
VinceC
Veteran
-->great, will try that with my Nikkor 135 mm lens
The 105mm parallax etch mark works fairly well for eyeballing the top left frame of a 135mm. And for close focusing with the 135mm lens, you can frame the opposite corner using the lower right corner of the solid 105mm frame.
This isn't pefect. But the 1:1 finder makes it pretty easy to focus and shoot a 135mm lens.
VinceC
Veteran
I'm also a grunge-camera person. I never use "never-ready" cases. But I also know many people really like cases. And they do keep old cameras looking nice. So in this respect, to each his or her own.
BillBingham2
Registered User
Some types of rubbers are handy, but as we have a family sort of site, we will not go there.
I try hard to treat my stuff with respect, but not at the cost of missing a shot. While I've used cameras with "Never Ready" cases attached, I've never liked them. As pointed out here before, way to slow to reload and it seems my luck will never change. Great things will alway start to happen around the 34th frame. They also add bulk to my cameras, which by nature I hate. I want to carry the least possible.
B2 (;->
I try hard to treat my stuff with respect, but not at the cost of missing a shot. While I've used cameras with "Never Ready" cases attached, I've never liked them. As pointed out here before, way to slow to reload and it seems my luck will never change. Great things will alway start to happen around the 34th frame. They also add bulk to my cameras, which by nature I hate. I want to carry the least possible.
B2 (;->
csxcnj
Well-known
I have nerve damage to the tips of my thumb, index, middle and ring fingers of my right hand.
The half cases on my Bessa and S3 (and soon on the S2) enable me to get a sure grip. BUT.... on any of my cameras that have bodies that let me get a good grip due to larger size or protuberances, well.....BY GOD... I don't have cases on them....
NIKON KIU
Did you say Nippon Kogaku
JonR said:Just bought a S3 camera body
Jon
Can we see a picture of the camera?
I am well known to be a "Gear-Head" around here,thought I act my role
Kiu
JonR
Well-known
NIKON KIU
Did you say Nippon Kogaku
Nice...
I have to make you work
Close ups please
Kiu
I have to make you work
Close ups please
Kiu
JonR
Well-known
Well - sorry not possible right now, at work and had this photo available but no closeup´s.... May come later with some feedback on having tested out the S3 and the 21 mm which are the two new additions this Summer!
Summer project from a photo perspective include two very different ambitions - really testing out the S3 with the 21 mm to see if I like it (never having really liked wide angel lenses at all) and becoming skilled in using my D80+105 Micro AFS VR for macro situation!
/jon
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.