Using less film. Switching gear.

Using less film. Switching gear.

  • Update to used M10, keep M4-2. Use only J-3 and J-12.

    Votes: 12 24.5%

  • Update to new M-E 240, keep M4-2, Summarit-M 35 2.5

    Votes: 9 18.4%

  • Get Nokton 35 1.4 II for M-E 220, keep M4-2, Summarit-M 35 2.5.

    Votes: 8 16.3%

  • Keep M-E 220, get used Monochrome, use only J-3 and J-12.

    Votes: 4 8.2%

  • Something else.

    Votes: 16 32.7%
  • Total voters
    49
  • Poll closed .
Indeed traveling can be inspiring if one is not locked costantly in the small box, and if you enjoy it that is not a problem as it is to some . If you insist shooting at slow apertures then m10 appears to have much better iso , m240 is definetely better than m9 but not by big margin. I would recommend trying other than lightroom raw converters like dxo, raw therapee( various demasaicing algorithms avaiable including ones for high iso files) and editing technique ie rasiging whites and highlights more than shadows and blacks, using curves to raise exposure use fast apertures more . Modern lenses like ultron 35 1.7 are sharp across the frame from wide open.
 
Ko.Fe. said:
2000, 4000 and 5000 are in camera -2 exposure dial. But how about pushing two stops in LR I did?

Switching to Brassaï's tripod shots isn't something I'm into. I did it in the past as well.
Click to expand...

1. I repeat : setting the ISO dial at 1000 with turning the exposure compensation to -2 then pushing by two stops in LR while "developing" the image so that the histogram is correct and the image pops out with normal blacks, greys, whites, is the exact same thing than turning the ISO button to 2000 before depressing the shutter release then not doing anything special in LR. Ditto re. 2000 -> 4000 and 2500 -> 5000. So here the results are bad because your M-E sensor is not good above ISO 1600, it creates much digital noise (of various types, no need to elaborate on this) and banding when no light enough hits its surface. Sensor signal/noise ratio issue, the sensor is the culprit and nothing can be done to turn the problem out but getting another camera with a better sensor, if you definitely cannot be happy with staying below ISO 1600 with the lenses you have and the way you use them for the photos you like to take, was it during the day or at night.

2. It's not at all about switching to Brassaï's tripod but this is about getting somehow inspired with Brassaï's point of view about the night and what makes a night photo interesting and more interesting. Getting out at night with a camera doesn't make you take great photos instantly. Night photos obey to the same rules as daylight photos as for the interest of the subject, the composition, the tones, the light, all in all what the photo tells as for a story. That ISO thing comes later - yet, terrible digital noise and unexpected banding will ruin a masterpiece as well as they will ruin an unsignificant photograph whose place is in the family album only.
A great part of the most beautiful photos of the history of photography were taken under very difficult light circumstances with slow speed films and f/3.5 lenses. So, using a versatile camera able to work from ISO 160 to ISO 800 (let's not even say ISO 1600 which is the upper acceptable limit of the M-E Typ 220 sensor) by just pushing a button and f/2 modern multicoated lenses is plenty enough to face any kind of situation for the advanced amateur photographer.
 
Highway 61 said:
1. I repeat : setting the ISO dial at 1000 with turning the exposure compensation to -2 then pushing by two stops in LR while "developing" the image so that the histogram is correct and the image pops out with normal blacks, greys, whites, is the exact same thing than turning the ISO button to 2000 before depressing the shutter release then not doing anything special in LR. Ditto re. 2000 -> 4000 and 2500 -> 5000. So here the results are bad because your M-E sensor is not good above ISO 1600, it creates much digital noise (of various types, no need to elaborate on this) and banding when no light enough hits its surface. Sensor signal/noise ratio issue, the sensor is the culprit and nothing can be done to turn the problem out but getting another camera with a better sensor, if you definitely cannot be happy with staying below ISO 1600 with the lenses you have and the way you use them for the photos you like to take, was it during the day or at night.

2. It's not at all about switching to Brassaï's tripod but this is about getting somehow inspired with Brassaï's point of view about the night and what makes a night photo interesting and more interesting. Getting out at night with a camera doesn't make you take great photos instantly. Night photos obey to the same rules as daylight photos as for the interest of the subject, the composition, the tones, the light, all in all what the photo tells as for a story. That ISO thing comes later - yet, terrible digital noise and unexpected banding will ruin a masterpiece as well as they will ruin an unsignificant photograph whose place is in the family album only.
A great part of the most beautiful photos of the history of photography were taken under very difficult light circumstances with slow speed films and f/3.5 lenses. So, using a versatile camera able to work from ISO 160 to ISO 800 (let's not even say ISO 1600 which is the upper acceptable limit of the M-E Typ 220 sensor) by just pushing a button and f/2 modern multicoated lenses is plenty enough to face any kind of situation for the advanced amateur photographer.
Click to expand...

Thank you for ISO clarification.
It looks like M9M with ISO 10000 is sufficient for my amateur needs. :)
 
Monochrome Imaging does the same thing and their prices are considerably less expensive. A Sony A7RII conversion is $800.

Shawn
 
Highway 61 said:
...

2. It's not at all about switching to Brassaï's tripod but this is about getting somehow inspired with Brassaï's point of view about the night and what makes a night photo interesting and more interesting. Getting out at night with a camera doesn't make you take great photos instantly. Night photos obey to the same rules as daylight photos as for the interest of the subject, the composition, the tones, the light, all in all what the photo tells as for a story.
Click to expand...

cldn't agree more. we shouldn't be trying to replicate what we see during the lighted hours, but find something that exists BECAUSE of the darkness.
 
ptpdprinter said:
What's wrong with using the Leica you already have? I don't think you need anything new. That's not photography; that's just spending money.
Click to expand...

.... you load your own film & use outdated paper......& you’re considering an M10
.....w Canadian $. Happy 2020:)
 
Deardorff38 said:
.... you load your own film & use outdated paper......& you’re considering an M10
.....w Canadian $. Happy 2020:)
Click to expand...

I didn’t mention it clearly enough, used M10 and with money after gear is sold. No CC is going to be in use.
No CAD either.
 
newsgrunt said:
cldn't agree more. we shouldn't be trying to replicate what we see during the lighted hours, but find something that exists BECAUSE of the darkness.
Click to expand...

Sure, but why I should photograph something you are both interested in?
I’m not.
 
Face it KF, you’re about to join the ranks of the ‘elitists’ you like to rail against .....
 
Deardorff38 said:
Face it KF, you’re about to join the ranks of the ‘elitists’ you like to rail against .....
Click to expand...

Are you saying I’m going to barely use it and take LUF kind of pictures with it?
I’m already half into it after getting new M-E and Summarit.
Nor I was in poor Canadian artists club with three ELC Leicas and ELC glass.

Are you my internal voice with ten and most votes for “something else”, which tells me “skip it all and get Kodak Toronto Brownie”?
Well, I had it. Three times. :)
 
shawn said:
Monochrome Imaging does the same thing and their prices are considerably less expensive. A Sony A7RII conversion is $800.

Shawn
Click to expand...

The conversion increases contrast, so the focusing is a little faster when using the contrast detect AF. I don’t have any numbers to prove this, it is just a gut feeling. And since I don’t use autofocus anyway, I cannot guarantee the results.
Click to expand...

I’m not sure if I need non af evf camera...
 
Ko.Fe. said:
Here are six from forty photos taken today with M-E from dusk to dawn. Well, before and after as well :)

I have it set on ISO Auto, first two f4-f5.6 and 1/125 and exposure compensation -2.
Then in LR I push exposure to the right to have images visible.

49319304606_d830300986_o.jpg

ISO 2000

49319511307_194c8096d6_o.jpg
Click to expand...
These TWO are my Favorites, LOVE THEM, wish I took them !
 
Get it down to 2 blocks...one film one digital...and 1 set of primes that work on both blocks...one laptop with nice software...Hotspot cellular. A couple nice bags... Then you're styling!

I ride the bus home work everyday. Many times it is the most interesting part of my day. lol
 
Thank you, Helen, for this honor.
Those two are the limit for M-E low light use. Static or close to it shots.

Thank you, Contarama. At last I'm not alone on my commute. :)

I see no reason to use Summarit-M on digital, it isn't any better than Color Skopar 35 2.5 on digital. But it is superior bw film rendering lens.
With gear I'm willing sell, I could still keep M4-2 and Summarit-M 35 f2.5 as my film block. And change M-E 220 to M-E 240 or to used M240 + Nokton 35 1.4 II for digital block.

Leica M digital series are kind of primitive cameras without dust reduction, I like to have just one lens on digital M.

Pushed M240 sensor image isn't much behind on MM246 @ ISO10000.
https://www.reddotforum.com/content...chrom-typ-246-vs-m-monochrom-m9-vs-m-typ-240/
ISO-10000-pasta-2.jpg
 
Highway 61 said:
2. It's not at all about switching to Brassaï's tripod but this is about getting somehow inspired with Brassaï's point of view about the night and what makes a night photo interesting and more interesting. Getting out at night with a camera doesn't make you take great photos instantly. Night photos obey to the same rules as daylight photos as for the interest of the subject, the composition, the tones, the light, all in all what the photo tells as for a story. That ISO thing comes later - yet, terrible digital noise and unexpected banding will ruin a masterpiece as well as they will ruin an unsignificant photograph whose place is in the family album only.
A great part of the most beautiful photos of the history of photography were taken under very difficult light circumstances with slow speed films and f/3.5 lenses. So, using a versatile camera able to work from ISO 160 to ISO 800 (let's not even say ISO 1600 which is the upper acceptable limit of the M-E Typ 220 sensor) by just pushing a button and f/2 modern multicoated lenses is plenty enough to face any kind of situation for the advanced amateur photographer.
Click to expand...

solid insight, well expressed, and true for me too.
 
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