Using less film. Switching gear.

Using less film. Switching gear.

  • Update to used M10, keep M4-2. Use only J-3 and J-12.

    Votes: 12 24.5%
  • Update to new M-E 240, keep M4-2, Summarit-M 35 2.5

    Votes: 9 18.4%
  • Get Nokton 35 1.4 II for M-E 220, keep M4-2, Summarit-M 35 2.5.

    Votes: 8 16.3%
  • Keep M-E 220, get used Monochrome, use only J-3 and J-12.

    Votes: 4 8.2%
  • Something else.

    Votes: 16 32.7%

  • Total voters
    49
  • Poll closed .
Amount of light and stops are interchangeable to me. I use amount/percentage of light when shooting meterless as I find I estimate shadows a bit better that way and then translate that into stops on the camera.

I was always a meter user... even with meter-less cameras. I can see how thinking about it that way when not using a meter would work. I've always just rather concentrate on content and framing... exposure has been taken for granted. Makes sense about flash too... since you have the 1/1, 1/2,. 1/4 etc options.


Glad we agree about ISO400 on film being ISO400 on digital.
Shawn

I'm curious to understand what he meant. English is not his first language. It could be a mix up.
 
I was always a meter user... even with meter-less cameras. I can see how thinking about it that way when not using a meter would work. I've always just rather concentrate on content and framing... exposure has been taken for granted. Makes sense about flash too... since you have the 1/1, 1/2,. 1/4 etc options.

I'm curious to understand what he meant. English is not his first language. It could be a mix up.

I was just about always a meter user too. Only the last few years I have been going meterless on occasion. I find it good exercise and it has made me see the light better which can also be part of composition. Yup with flash and also helpful to think about percentage when balancing flash with natural light.

Might be a language barrier. Was thinking it could be also be an older film camera with a shutter running slow.

Shawn
 
“We were using Tri-X film pushed to 1200 ASA, whereas the normal rating is 400. The reason was to be able to shoot at 1/1000th of a second as much as possible, because if you made pictures on the street at 1/125th, they were blurry. If you lunged at something, either it would move or else your own motion would mess up the picture. I began to work that way after looking at my pictures and noticing that they had those loose edges, Garry’s were crisp.” – via Joel Meyerowitz From Bystander: A History of Street Photography.

yum,yum
Thanks for this read John
I thoroughly Enjoyed Meyerowitz & Gary’s thinking
 
Helen, it is always honorary to see your respond in any thread.
You are Queen of the Light. Both sides. Thank you for keep on shining!

And thank you J. True friends are not who always agree, but those who understand..
Felice Navidar 🙂!
 
Glad so see the thread not fall apart due to disagreements. Middle ground was found after perspectives were considered.
Violently in agreement in the end.
A good finale for 2019.
 
Back to commuting. .....

Kostya, I wish you didn't have such an awful commute to and from work!!!

I once had a job with a 2 hour commute each way, every day. It was not sustainable. I severely exacerbated an injury from driving my manual transmission car in stop-and-go traffic on the freeway each morning and evening. I once had to pull off the road one morning because I could not stay awake and was falling asleep while driving. I remember being woken up by a police officer knocking on my window. He was nice enough when I explained why I was sleeping in my car on the side of the road....he suggested I try drinking coffee. I didn't tell him I had already had 5 cups before leaving for work!!! I still fell asleep at the wheel! Put simply, I was so severely sleep deprived and suffering at least 4+ hours of every day in wasted injurious and destructive commute, I could not continue. I quit that job and vowed to never do a major commute ever again. My life and happiness in this world is more important....

30+ years since that decision and I am so glad. Hasn't always been easy though.....but worth it. My life, and my family's life, has been so much better. My typical daily commute has been less than half-hour for many years. Occasionally I have odd tasks with long travel, but those are infrequent.

Kostya, I know it sounds trite when others tell you to find another job that doesn't have such a crazy commute, but I sincerely hope that you can do that. Of course I am aware of the realities of making a living... but I do know that I don't regret the lost opportunity (income) from my decision to avoid the commute. Today, there are other forces that have a greater impact, but I continue to make the conscious decision to choose my life and family over the commute. A decision made from experience. I know what I'm averting, and weighing it against potential gains.

With much respect and best wishes....I hope you can change the commute situation and get back your time to do what you love...... photography complete with film and printing in the darkroom! I'm pulling for ya, dude ��
 
Back to commuting. .....

With much respect and best wishes....I hope you can change the commute situation and get back your time to do what you love...... photography complete with film and printing in the darkroom! I'm pulling for ya, dude ��

Thanks for nice words. I do not like film this much and DR printing, I just like results 🙂.

I have some of your paper left and I have some more old paper, but it isn't fun. Each sheet developing time is slightly different.
Once I finish it all, I have no plans to continue. New DR paper prices are outrageously greedy and only going up. Used digital Leica prices going only down.

To be honest, I feel more time is wasted in DR, rather than in commute.
 
From previous week, with Start camera.

https://www.rangefinderforum.com/rffgallery/showphoto.php?photoid=293787

Another four scans are beside at same link.

I was with Nikkormat and "new" to me Vivitar 28 f2 at the same place, yesterday. It is fifteen minutes from home.

Fantastic. The shot of the guy in the Analog jacket is fitting. Burton had several products under that brand, and I used to have an Analog trucker hat.

I need to shoot more on the slopes. I've been carrying my PEN S, but get too carried away snowboarding to shoot much. Here's one with my Stylus Epic from a few years back:

16802198227_e8f44c1427_c.jpg
snowstorm

Looking forward to seeing more of your shots from the slopes.
 
Ko as you know I have the original MM, M 262 (M 240 sensor) and the M 10. And you know that when I am doing street work I like to have a lot of DoF and I like the shoot at high shutter speeds to freeze the action so that requires most of the work being shot at ISOs of 1600, 3200 and 6400.

I do most of my street work and pretty much all of my B&W work with my MM. I get great results 12 X 18 prints are usually what i exhibit when I have show. Thats what size all of my work was at my last two exhibits here in Chicago. I had smaller prints at my exhibit in Hamburg last May.

My experience with all three cameras mentioned is this. I still shoot most of my street work in B&W and the original MM is great for my needs in that regard.

For color street the M 10 is a real gem. It is at least two stops better than my M 262 when it comes to high ISO. It is right now when it comes to being responsive and the shutter is quieter than the 262. In fact when the M 10 Mono is released it is going to be a huge temptation.

For street work I am usually a one lens guy. My 35 Lux FLE is usually the go to lens with my MM. That combo of B&W and 35mm FoV on FF pretty much matches the way I see so I really don't need anything else. If you are only going to do B&W work then I would highly recommend picking up an MM. If you are going to be doing color work and you can swing it pick up an M 10.

That's my 2 cents. Take it for what it is worth.
 
Ko as you know I have the original MM, M 262 (M 240 sensor) and the M 10. And you know that when I am doing street work I like to have a lot of DoF and I like the shoot at high shutter speeds to freeze the action so that requires most of the work being shot at ISOs of 1600, 3200 and 6400.

I do most of my street work and pretty much all of my B&W work with my MM. I get great results 12 X 18 prints are usually what i exhibit when I have show. Thats what size all of my work was at my last two exhibits here in Chicago. I had smaller prints at my exhibit in Hamburg last May.

My experience with all three cameras mentioned is this. I still shoot most of my street work in B&W and the original MM is great for my needs in that regard.

For color street the M 10 is a real gem. It is at least two stops better than my M 262 when it comes to high ISO. It is right now when it comes to being responsive and the shutter is quieter than the 262. In fact when the M 10 Mono is released it is going to be a huge temptation.

For street work I am usually a one lens guy. My 35 Lux FLE is usually the go to lens with my MM. That combo of B&W and 35mm FoV on FF pretty much matches the way I see so I really don't need anything else. If you are only going to do B&W work then I would highly recommend picking up an MM. If you are going to be doing color work and you can swing it pick up an M 10.

That's my 2 cents. Take it for what it is worth.

Thank you for chiming in! You are the only photographer I know who does street photography (I like and interested in) with three different digital M.
I lean towards BW for street and else. Most of photography books I have are BW. 🙂 Color is much difficult and different for me.
 
Thanks Ko.

My color bodies are mostly for my commercial work. I have 2 M 10s, M 262 and like you an M-E. The M 10 is my favorite color body by far. The ISO dial on the top left, responsiveness and good high ISO performance just some of the reasons I like it so much. But for B&W I still love my old MM.
 
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