Yes, heat really works. 
Often the glue is so deteriorated it comes off in little bits with the vulcanite, leaving a clean aluminum shell ready for replacement.
Speaking of replacement, I've been ordering from hugostudio, the closest vulcanite copy I've yet come across: https://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2630951
Often the glue is so deteriorated it comes off in little bits with the vulcanite, leaving a clean aluminum shell ready for replacement.Speaking of replacement, I've been ordering from hugostudio, the closest vulcanite copy I've yet come across: https://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2630951
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Not wax it, totally new coat of paint!
Indeed! New covering can make a ratty looking M look like new.
c.poulton
Well-known
That was much more work than I anticipated, but the result is great:
Now on to my other M4, which will be covered in "tan"
Simply Gorgeous
css9450
Veteran
I bet 1,1,1-Trichloroetheyne will dissolve all that old glue in no time.
It'll also give you terrible cancers. Use with caution!
It'll also give you terrible cancers. Use with caution!
Huss
Veteran
The nice thing is that once you remove the old vulcanite, it is really easy to change out the new covering in the future if the whim strikes you.
Huss
Veteran
Do not use this with light coloured leathers! Only with blacks, dark blues etc.
On my medium blue M3 the purell (I used the actual Purell brand) stained the leather permanently. So in places the blue is darker.
This may only apply to using real leather like the stuff from cameraleather.com, not synthetics
seany65
Well-known
Do not use this with light coloured leathers! Only with blacks, dark blues etc.
On my medium blue M3 the Purell (I used the actual Purell brand) stained the leather permanently. So in places the blue is darker.
This may only apply to using real leather like the stuff from Cameraleather.com, not synthetics
If you do it really, really carefully, you could end up with an entirely individual 'camouflage' pattern.
giganova
Well-known
Finished my second leatherette replacement:
nobbylon
Veteran
The best way I've found is to use a hair dryer and a flat blade. If it doesn't come off in one piece then it's not hot enough. Use a small drier with a thin nozzle to direct the heat away from windows etc. Any residual glue is easily removed by using q-tips soaked in acetone/nail polish remover to saturate the glue. It then wipes off easily.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The way to do it is to remove the shell from the body completely and to remove all the details mounted to it, such as the bayonet release button and the selftimer etc. Then you can place the shell in an oven or (better) in hot water. When hot the vulcanite is taken off easily.
Erik.
Erik.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I've done this some two or three times, and always using the strip remover from a hardware store. It was so strong the last time it stripped the paint off the screws, but then leaving it overnight made the vulcanite removal a cinch. However, maybe the next time I'll try the heat method instead.