Well, I pulled the trigger on an M8...

Takkun

Takkun

Ian M.
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It's my birthday, and B&H had one for an unbelievable price. I decided to after I met someone in Cambridge with an RD1 yesterday. I love my shots with the X100 but am getting frustrated with AF. So I figured I'd try this out and resell if I'm not thrilled, and if I am, I have a friend that's been eyeing the Fuji.

One thing: I was so excited to buy that I forgot about an IR/cold mirror filter. So we'll see how this works out. I've never been too jazzed about color film and I like what I've seen online.
Any tips or tricks from current M8 users?

Best part: it should be waiting for me by the time I'm back in Seattle!
 
Congrats.
I use mainly a rigid summicron with the M8, and I use an IR cut filter with the lens.
Since one day, I am using DNG + fine jpg as my option for the file type, and I set the "color saturation" to B&W for the jpg.

Have fun with the camera!


HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!
 
Don't worry about all the negativity posted usually, and yes it can be a llittle quirky, but you'll love the M8 when you see the base iso files from it. It often reminds me of kodachrome. Enjoy!
 
I agonized over low(ish)-light performance, which is my primary use for digital these days along with studio flash. But everything I've seen after trawling Flickr turned me into a believer.
What's the secret to pulling out those great, luminous shots?
 
Congrats, Ian! I hope you'll like the M8, as I like mine. As to ISO, I compare it to film... 320-400 is fine, twice that is feasible with push development, and 1250-1600 gets grainy but still mostly usable... about the same with the M8 so I just enjoy the other benefits. :) With flash especially, I'd think this is a non-issue.

At the beginning, I did resist the idea of the UV/IR Cut filters, thinking I'd mostly just use B&W jpegs. Well, I peeked at the DNGs, saw that color worked well for most of my shots, decided I was basically a color shooter. Then, on an overseas educational tour, I started seeing results that displayed the effects of excess IR and became a believer in the filters. That in turn logically meant coding the lenses too!

Once I got all that sorted out I really enjoyed the M8's color output, and I find I also enjoy processing with CaptureOne or Lightroom more than in the chemical darkroom.

Happy Birthday, and may you be as satisfied as I with the M8... :)
 
The M8 is a seriously good camera and I do miss having one. There is one very little secret to getting good files: good exposure.

At lower ISOs (even 640), if it's underexposed, you may find yourself with blotchy/grainy/banded files.

High ISOs, 1250 for example, in outside daylight, if well exposed, can look great. It's not a low light camera in the sense that it will "see" in the darkness or take fine long exposures. If you have good glass and good light, it just sings. I never bothered myself with the IR filters, but I did shoot mostly B&W with it. The CCD on it outputs some serious color depth. Newer versions of Lightroom can do quite a bit with the files. Enjoy it :)

TOTT%20Fred%20Bonatto-13_800.jpg


TOTT%20Fred%20Bonatto-14_800.jpg
 
Congrats on the M8, it's a fantastic camera indeed and I've shot thousands with mine, tho my M9 does tend to get more attention these days (only due to the sensor FOV).

I always considered my M8 to be a budget M Monochrom, with built in filters accessed through post production. If used this way, the IR sensitivity isn't a drawback, it's a strength as it gives the B&W shots an extra something.

That said, as long as there isn't any artificial fibres worn in the shots, the colour is there should the shot demand it.

I found that when using colour, a hue shift on the yellows towards green, would give plants, grass, trees, a lovely boost, and a hue shift on the red towards the orange end makes the skin tones a bit more natural.

I shoot the M8 with an EV adjustment of -1/3 to protect the highlights, shoot RAW only (the files are hugely flexible) and generally set the max ISO on the Auto ISO to 640. If you need more light, invest in a brighter lens. I found the Voigtlander 40/1.4 Nokton was great, and the 50/1.1 too, tho large.

I'd also recommend a 25mm lens, the Voigtlander 25/4 if you're on a budget, but the Zeiss 25/2.8 I use now is like a sensor upgrade, even over the pretty-damn-sharp Voigtlander.

The M8 has framelines for 24mm, which are pretty spot on for 25mm. It makes it a 35mm equivalent, but with a deeper depth of focus. As a result, you can set your lens to f8, set the hyperfocal, and you'll have everything from around 1.2m to infinity in focus, ready for instant snaps with no focusing needed at all. At f8, either lens with perform amazingly.

Here are some examples of the M8 + CV 25/4 combo, all shot hyperfocal.


Cooling Giants by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Helping Little Sis by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Down At The Pond by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Wrap Up Warm by Cris Rose, on Flickr

Oh and the other great thing about the CV 25/4? It's tiny. You can take the camera anywhere.


Leica M8 + CV 25/4 with new hood by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Leica M8 + CV 25/4 with new hood by Cris Rose, on Flickr
 
All things considered the M8 remains the best (and, surely to some people's annoyance, the most reliable) digital camera I have owned or used, although it's getting some serious pressure in the image quality department from my current and future Sony's. :)
 
jippiejee said:
.... you'll love the M8 when you see the base iso files from it. It often reminds me of kodachrome. Enjoy!
Click to expand...

This

And this too:

CrisR said:
Congrats on the M8, it's a fantastic camera indeed and I've shot thousands with mine, tho my M9 does tend to get more attention these days (only due to the sensor FOV).

I always considered my M8 to be a budget M Monochrom, with built in filters accessed through post production. If used this way, the IR sensitivity isn't a drawback, it's a strength as it gives the B&W shots an extra something.

That said, as long as there isn't any artificial fibres worn in the shots, the colour is there should the shot demand it.

I found that when using colour, a hue shift on the yellows towards green, would give plants, grass, trees, a lovely boost, and a hue shift on the red towards the orange end makes the skin tones a bit more natural.

I shoot the M8 with an EV adjustment of -1/3 to protect the highlights, shoot RAW only (the files are hugely flexible) and generally set the max ISO on the Auto ISO to 640. If you need more light, invest in a brighter lens. I found the Voigtlander 40/1.4 Nokton was great, and the 50/1.1 too, tho large.

I'd also recommend a 25mm lens, the Voigtlander 25/4 if you're on a budget, but the Zeiss 25/2.8 I use now is like a sensor upgrade, even over the pretty-damn-sharp Voigtlander.

The M8 has framelines for 24mm, which are pretty spot on for 25mm. It makes it a 35mm equivalent, but with a deeper depth of focus. As a result, you can set your lens to f8, set the hyperfocal, and you'll have everything from around 1.2m to infinity in focus, ready for instant snaps with no focusing needed at all. At f8, either lens with perform amazingly.
!
Click to expand...
 
Congratulations!
Tips: Consider a spare battery, especially if the battery in the camera is old. A lot of erratic behaviour can be caused by an old battery, also some memory cards can cause problems with the M8. My camera has been super reliable since I got a fresh battery. I still keep the old one as a spare.
Get an IR72 filter and take some infrared shots (with most lenses you will need to adjust focus).

Trick: to bring up hidden engineer mode menu to check shutter actuations:
Turn the camera on. Press the right arrow key 4 times. Press the left arrow key 3 times. Press the right arrow key 1 more time. Press the info button. Select b debug data. Press Set. Scroll to NUMEXPOSURES. Turn off camera to exit.
 
Thanks again. some of you might have seen the post I had distressing over getting the CV 25, and I think it might be a nice pairing here. I'm getting it tomorrow, and then lending my X100 to my friend, so it'll be a trial run for both of us.

Handling has always been super important as a street photographer, since a slow camera means missing a shot and my honeymoon with the hybrid finder is waning.. It's just reassuring to see that people still are using this camera.
 
totally agree on the zeiss lenses + M8

totally agree on the zeiss lenses + M8

I still remember the first day I used a 50mm Planar on it and couldn't believe the sharpness and pop effect. I was reading the manufacturer's name sharply on a button on my daughter's sweater in a half-body portrait!
Enjoy the M8 - it is a fantastic camera. I firmly believe that creativity requires working around limitations, and the M8's advantages clearly outweigh the negatives...

CrisR said:
Congrats on the M8, it's a fantastic camera indeed and I've shot thousands with mine, tho my M9 does tend to get more attention these days (only due to the sensor FOV).

I always considered my M8 to be a budget M Monochrom, with built in filters accessed through post production. If used this way, the IR sensitivity isn't a drawback, it's a strength as it gives the B&W shots an extra something.

That said, as long as there isn't any artificial fibres worn in the shots, the colour is there should the shot demand it.

I found that when using colour, a hue shift on the yellows towards green, would give plants, grass, trees, a lovely boost, and a hue shift on the red towards the orange end makes the skin tones a bit more natural.

I shoot the M8 with an EV adjustment of -1/3 to protect the highlights, shoot RAW only (the files are hugely flexible) and generally set the max ISO on the Auto ISO to 640. If you need more light, invest in a brighter lens. I found the Voigtlander 40/1.4 Nokton was great, and the 50/1.1 too, tho large.

I'd also recommend a 25mm lens, the Voigtlander 25/4 if you're on a budget, but the Zeiss 25/2.8 I use now is like a sensor upgrade, even over the pretty-damn-sharp Voigtlander.

The M8 has framelines for 24mm, which are pretty spot on for 25mm. It makes it a 35mm equivalent, but with a deeper depth of focus. As a result, you can set your lens to f8, set the hyperfocal, and you'll have everything from around 1.2m to infinity in focus, ready for instant snaps with no focusing needed at all. At f8, either lens with perform amazingly.

Here are some examples of the M8 + CV 25/4 combo, all shot hyperfocal.


Cooling Giants by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Helping Little Sis by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Down At The Pond by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Wrap Up Warm by Cris Rose, on Flickr

Oh and the other great thing about the CV 25/4? It's tiny. You can take the camera anywhere.


Leica M8 + CV 25/4 with new hood by Cris Rose, on Flickr


Leica M8 + CV 25/4 with new hood by Cris Rose, on Flickr
Click to expand...
 
Look back - way back - to find some Capture profiles for the M8 that can help deal with magenta without using the IR filters. I downloaded them several years back and don't use an IR filter on any lenses. The color may not be perfect, but it saves a lot of time switching lenses from film Leicas to the M8. I do have some intermittent problems and will take Doolittle's advice and get a couple of new batteries.
 
Takkun said:
I agonized over low(ish)-light performance, which is my primary use for digital these days along with studio flash. But everything I've seen after trawling Flickr turned me into a believer.
What's the secret to pulling out those great, luminous shots?
Click to expand...

Ian, pay no mind to the whiney buckets. There are those who expect their camera to shoot black cats in coal bins at night, and it's just not reasonable to ask of a camera. Have reasonable expectations, and the M8 will exceed them. The M8's files are brilliant when properly exposed. That's what you saw on flickr.


L1003946a by chief1120, on Flickr

and my late, great little buddy, Khan:


L1004530 by chief1120, on Flickr

Takkun said:
Handling has always been super important as a street photographer, since a slow camera means missing a shot and my honeymoon with the hybrid finder is waning.. It's just reassuring to see that people still are using this camera.
Click to expand...

Handling has everything to do with familiarity with the camera. If it's so complex that you have to use it on auto, too much is left to the equipment. If it can't be used manually, you'll miss shots. The use and handling of the M8 is essentially the same as the film M series, and if you set it up right, there's nothing faster than framing and as the frame comes together, releasing the shutter. It's a different style and method, but it's time-proven to be successful. good luck!
 
I'm glad I was able to help :)

The CV25 is a great lens, I bought it originally because I couldn't afford the ZM25, but when I finally bought the Zeiss, it was like I'd upgraded my sensor. I also sold the CV25 for what i bought it for a year earlier, and put the money towards the Zeiss, so it was win-win all round.

I do miss the CV25's compactness, but that extra stop of light and the improved sharpness and distortion have more than made up for it. Consider it down the line, if you find the focal length works for you.

And yes, bang-for-buck, I would certainly recommend my ZM 50/2 Planar too.

I look forward to seeing your results with the M8!
 
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