bwcolor
Veteran
Photo of spots removed..
This is a 4000DPI scan downsized a bit and heavily cropped 35mm Legacy Pro 400 /XTOL 1+2. I had the same thing using another film & Rodinal.
I've been happy with results until the last few rolls and now I've got a plague of white spots covering all the negatives. I haven't changed anything and prior to this I had nice clean negatives that need just half a dozen clone stamps in PS when viewed at full resolution.
I soaked in water for two minutes.
XTOL 1+2 (filtered water) 12 minutes with agitation 30 sec then three inversions per minute
Tap water stop bath.
Fix 24 min in Kodak Hardener fix (filtered water)
Tap water bath
Hypo Eliminator two minutes
Ten complete water changes.. tap water
1/2 cap of Photoflow in four reel tank and filtered water
Hang in shower/ furnace off/ steam from hot sink water in small bathroom.
Cut /Sleeve and then later brush blow and scan
The Fixer/Hypo are probably 2/3 through life cycle
I appreciate any thoughts here. Some dust, but I just don't think that most of this is dust... thanks.
This is a 4000DPI scan downsized a bit and heavily cropped 35mm Legacy Pro 400 /XTOL 1+2. I had the same thing using another film & Rodinal.
I've been happy with results until the last few rolls and now I've got a plague of white spots covering all the negatives. I haven't changed anything and prior to this I had nice clean negatives that need just half a dozen clone stamps in PS when viewed at full resolution.
I soaked in water for two minutes.
XTOL 1+2 (filtered water) 12 minutes with agitation 30 sec then three inversions per minute
Tap water stop bath.
Fix 24 min in Kodak Hardener fix (filtered water)
Tap water bath
Hypo Eliminator two minutes
Ten complete water changes.. tap water
1/2 cap of Photoflow in four reel tank and filtered water
Hang in shower/ furnace off/ steam from hot sink water in small bathroom.
Cut /Sleeve and then later brush blow and scan
The Fixer/Hypo are probably 2/3 through life cycle
I appreciate any thoughts here. Some dust, but I just don't think that most of this is dust... thanks.
Last edited:
ChrisN
Striving
Time to get out the loupe (magnifying glass) and have a very close look at the negative. White spots in the scan means black "something" or solid "something" on the negative, blocking the light. I guess it is either loose dust that has settled on the negative or particles that have become embedded in the emulsion, either during manufacture or during processesing.
You have tested another film, so probably not faulty emulsion. I'd dump all my mixed chemicals and start fresh.
You have tested another film, so probably not faulty emulsion. I'd dump all my mixed chemicals and start fresh.
Ronald M
Veteran
The Fixer/Hypo are probably 2/3 through life cycle
The real life cycle is 24 hours or a film or two which ever comes first. Silver precipitates out of solution, accumulate on the bottom of the bottle, and sticks to the next film like it was glued on. One dry, you are screwed.
Glass bottles are best because they clean and you can see the crud. Take a look at the bottom of the fixer bottle for a bunch of black flecks, ie silver.
If you can find a way to filter this, you are better than I. I can get most, not all. In my darkroom, fix is used one time and I finish it on test prints. Unless you like to spend hours fixing prints.
The real life cycle is 24 hours or a film or two which ever comes first. Silver precipitates out of solution, accumulate on the bottom of the bottle, and sticks to the next film like it was glued on. One dry, you are screwed.
Glass bottles are best because they clean and you can see the crud. Take a look at the bottom of the fixer bottle for a bunch of black flecks, ie silver.
If you can find a way to filter this, you are better than I. I can get most, not all. In my darkroom, fix is used one time and I finish it on test prints. Unless you like to spend hours fixing prints.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Crap in the tap water. Until I put Paterson filters on my taps I had much the same problem after moving to my present house. See http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/mt paterson water filter.html.
Sorry but I completely disagree with Ronald M about fixer life. I use film fix until the clearing time is double that of fresh fix: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/fixer exhaustion.html (the pics were missing when I checked but the text tells you all you need to know. The webmaster will probably fix the pics [as it were] within 24 hours).
I give a final wash (20 inversions) in de-ionized water followed by 30-60 sec. in Photoflo (actually Agfa Agepon) in distilled water.
Your problem may also be too much Photoflo. I use about 0.5 ml in 250 ml, i.e. about half the recommended quantity. More has given me spots in the past, but cutting it below about half means that it does nothing at all.
Why the hardening fixer? Rapid non-hardening fix gives just as good permanence and much faster washing, and because the wet time is less the emulsion is likely to be less tender during processing. After processing it's tough enough anyway and needs no hardening unless you're using a very unusual emulsion.
Cheers,
R.
Sorry but I completely disagree with Ronald M about fixer life. I use film fix until the clearing time is double that of fresh fix: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/fixer exhaustion.html (the pics were missing when I checked but the text tells you all you need to know. The webmaster will probably fix the pics [as it were] within 24 hours).
I give a final wash (20 inversions) in de-ionized water followed by 30-60 sec. in Photoflo (actually Agfa Agepon) in distilled water.
Your problem may also be too much Photoflo. I use about 0.5 ml in 250 ml, i.e. about half the recommended quantity. More has given me spots in the past, but cutting it below about half means that it does nothing at all.
Why the hardening fixer? Rapid non-hardening fix gives just as good permanence and much faster washing, and because the wet time is less the emulsion is likely to be less tender during processing. After processing it's tough enough anyway and needs no hardening unless you're using a very unusual emulsion.
Cheers,
R.
bwcolor
Veteran
I think that I will replace the fixer and Hypo Eliminator and install a filter. The hardener was a matter of inexperience. I have another ready to go without hardener. These are all items in common. The spots are present on my Legacy Pro 100 developed in the last few days, so I don't think that it is the emulsion.
Finder
Veteran
I agree with Roger, it won't be the fixer as silver halide dissolves into that and once it reaches saturation, it simply stops working--it does not precipitate out of solution. However, like Roger said, there is contamination somewhere in your process.
underbyte
Established
My Spots are Gone!
My Spots are Gone!
My spots are gone!
I have been having the same problem from time to time, and especially after moving into my present location. I took the advice of this thread and another, and my spots are GONE!
1) I cleaned out my current processing area (bathroom) and removed all fiber materials (towels, bathmats, etc.).
2) Mopped floor and wiped down the walls.
3) Used distilled water for everything but the washing
4) During the film wash, I ran the shower to help any remaining dust settle.
5) Final rinse with photo-flo in distilled water
6) Hang film to dry in the shower
6) I would have covered the bathroom vent with a furnace filter but I didn't have one yet. I plan to do this during processing.
This is hopefully a temporary solution, as I would prefer a filter, but I'm moving again soon so distilled water is the only way to do it. I am very happy with the decrease in crud on my film. I was starting to think seriously about ditching film, but the roll of 120 and separate roll of 35mm came out cleaner than any roll I've ever processed. The spots are gone
My Spots are Gone!
My spots are gone!
I have been having the same problem from time to time, and especially after moving into my present location. I took the advice of this thread and another, and my spots are GONE!
1) I cleaned out my current processing area (bathroom) and removed all fiber materials (towels, bathmats, etc.).
2) Mopped floor and wiped down the walls.
3) Used distilled water for everything but the washing
4) During the film wash, I ran the shower to help any remaining dust settle.
5) Final rinse with photo-flo in distilled water
6) Hang film to dry in the shower
6) I would have covered the bathroom vent with a furnace filter but I didn't have one yet. I plan to do this during processing.
This is hopefully a temporary solution, as I would prefer a filter, but I'm moving again soon so distilled water is the only way to do it. I am very happy with the decrease in crud on my film. I was starting to think seriously about ditching film, but the roll of 120 and separate roll of 35mm came out cleaner than any roll I've ever processed. The spots are gone
bwcolor
Veteran
My spots are also gone.
New carbon filter from Costco on faucet.
New Fixer (non hardening), Hypo clearing agent mixed in filtered water.
Have ordered the Patterson filter for high water volume filtering, but it has yet to arrive.
No spots..at all.
New carbon filter from Costco on faucet.
New Fixer (non hardening), Hypo clearing agent mixed in filtered water.
Have ordered the Patterson filter for high water volume filtering, but it has yet to arrive.
No spots..at all.
bwcolor
Veteran
Thank Roger... My Patterson filter came. The carbon filter works, but water flow is more restricted and the filters are not as practical. Not a spot on my first roll.