Forgive me if you already know this, but when you're using a manual focus lens on the F4 there is a green focus confirmation dot that lights up in the top of the viewfinder to tell you when the camera considers the image to be in focus.It seems that a low ball bid was sufficient to win me a Nikkor 50mm f/2 AI lens:
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That was it for pictures but even with tax and shipping it's barely over $30 USD so it's a pretty safe risk 🙂 Should be a fun little toy on my F4 😉
FED-5V(B) and Industar-61 L/D -- can't tell the vintage of the body from the serial number (101xxx) but the lens is an '83, so that sounds about right. Nice cosmetic shape; clear lens; nice leather case. Speeds seem about right, RF/VF is bright and aligned, and no light leaks or mechanical issues as far as I can tell.
These are not, shall we say, the epitome of smooth operation, but I knew that going in. I didn't need this but a guy was selling it locally and I figured it was worth $60.
Yes, pretty up to date in many respects. A rewind crank is nice to have -- way better than a knob (the Zorki 4K is the worst in that regard).The I61 LD is a great lens and the FED 5B at least a deluxe rear lens cap 😁
It has quite modern features like self resetting frame counter, hot shoe and additionally a pc synch contact.
FED-5V(B) and Industar-61 L/D -- can't tell the vintage of the body from the serial number (101xxx) but the lens is an '83, so that sounds about right. Nice cosmetic shape; clear lens; nice leather case. Speeds seem about right, RF/VF is bright and aligned, and no light leaks or mechanical issues as far as I can tell.
These are not, shall we say, the epitome of smooth operation, but I knew that going in. I didn't need this but a guy was selling it locally and I figured it was worth $60.
Yes, pretty up to date in many respects. A rewind crank is nice to have -- way better than a knob (the Zorki 4K is the worst in that regard).
Putting a roll (2013 Kentmere 400) through it now. Hopefully no light leaks. Wondering if there's anything I can do to make the film advance smoother -- it's tolerable, but not a joy, for sure.
I am pleased to report that the 1953 Contax IIa and the contemporary Zeiss Opton 50 1.5 arrived in very nice condition. The lens had some haze and two spots of fungus, but I took it apart and cleaned it and it is now perfect. No scratches, no cleaning marks or other coating issues whatsoever.In a fugue state after a long travel day I placed a bid on a Contax IIa with an accompanying Opton Sonnar 50mm 1.5 – and won. Both look very nice, which can be great, but can also mean there is something wrong with the camera and hence it was never used much. Only after I won I read Henry Scherer's blog and the long list of things that can be wrong with these cameras. I guess I'll have to wait and see. The price was not too high, though, about the going rate for the lens alone.
Keep your fingers crossed for me.
Luke,I am pleased to report that the 1953 Contax IIa and the contemporary Zeiss Opton 50 1.5 arrived in very nice condition. The lens had some haze and two spots of fungus, but I took it apart and cleaned it and it is now perfect. No scratches, no cleaning marks or other coating issues whatsoever.
The shutter fired (and opened) at all speeds, though the slow and mid speeds were erratic, sometimes closing much too quickly. I opened the camera, took out the slow speed escapement and gave it a thorough clean. I also cleaned the rangefinder unit and cleaned and relubed the focus helical with light helicoid grease. Put it all back together and it purrs now. The patch is well aligned and clearly visible, though the viewfinder in general is a little yellow and a little dim compared to my Leicas.
I have just developed my first two test rolls, the images are well exposed, sharp and evenly spaced. I am very happy with this outcome. If only I were a better product photographer...
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I have my eye on a similar camera with a Carl Zeizz 50/2. We shall see 🙂I am pleased to report that the 1953 Contax IIa and the contemporary Zeiss Opton 50 1.5 arrived in very nice condition. The lens had some haze and two spots of fungus, but I took it apart and cleaned it and it is now perfect. No scratches, no cleaning marks or other coating issues whatsoever.
The shutter fired (and opened) at all speeds, though the slow and mid speeds were erratic, sometimes closing much too quickly. I opened the camera, took out the slow speed escapement and gave it a thorough clean. I also cleaned the rangefinder unit and cleaned and relubed the focus helical with light helicoid grease. Put it all back together and it purrs now. The patch is well aligned and clearly visible, though the viewfinder in general is a little yellow and a little dim compared to my Leicas.
The camera was missing the take up spool, but I made two spares from Kodak Tri-X cartridges with a fine metal saw and some sand paper. They work reasonably well.
I have just developed my first two test rolls, the images are well exposed, sharp and evenly spaced. I am very happy with this outcome. If only I were a better product photographer...
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Good luck!I have my eye on a similar camera with a Carl Zeizz 50/2. We shall see 🙂
Nice -- and I am most impressed at your Contax repair skills!I am pleased to report that the 1953 Contax IIa and the contemporary Zeiss Opton 50 1.5 arrived in very nice condition. The lens had some haze and two spots of fungus, but I took it apart and cleaned it and it is now perfect. No scratches, no cleaning marks or other coating issues whatsoever.
The shutter fired (and opened) at all speeds, though the slow and mid speeds were erratic, sometimes closing much too quickly. I opened the camera, took out the slow speed escapement and gave it a thorough clean. I also cleaned the rangefinder unit and cleaned and relubed the focus helical with light helicoid grease. Put it all back together and it purrs now. The patch is well aligned and clearly visible, though the viewfinder in general is a little yellow and a little dim compared to my Leicas.
The camera was missing the take up spool, but I made two spares from Kodak Tri-X cartridges with a fine metal saw and some sand paper. They work reasonably well.
I have just developed my first two test rolls, the images are well exposed, sharp and evenly spaced. I am very happy with this outcome. If only I were a better product photographer...
View attachment 4825951
What? Have you never owned a FED 4? Using that rewind thumbwheel thing takes about an hour to rewind a film, and don't forget the Agfa Super Solinette "slide a tiny thing back, press and hold an even tinier thing, which is quite stiff and thinks it's job is to cause cramp in the finger or thumb you're pushing it with, and turn a wheel" - doing this may not take an hour to rewind but I suspect if you do this 3 times in a week you'll end up at the doctor because of damage to your pushing finger.Yes, pretty up to date in many respects. A rewind crank is nice to have -- way better than a knob (the Zorki 4K is the worst in that regard).
Putting a roll (2013 Kentmere 400) through it now. Hopefully no light leaks. Wondering if there's anything I can do to make the film advance smoother -- it's tolerable, but not a joy, for sure