What have you just BOUGHT?

p.giannakis said:
@Tim Murphy

What is your experience with them?

I noticed that if I hand one if these at the end of the film (as a weight) the film becomes curly when it dries.
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Hello,

I think that straightness depends somewhat on the film you developed and how long it was left to hang. Kentmere Pan 100 in 120 format dried pretty straight. Washi 50 in 35mm dried a little curly. I think I can fix that problem by epoxying some small lead fishing sinkers to the bottom clip without too much trouble.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg PA 🙂
 
An M3
Not what you think. A Mamiya 35 M3 in very nice condition. 48/2.0 lens, and a non LV Copal SV shutter. I have gotten used to the LV shutters on some late 50’s Japanese rangefinders, but this one is back to basics. the most difficult type from this era for me are not only LV, but have coupled meters which are usually non functional and complicate use of the dials for manual setting.
The Aires 35 IIIL was represented as hardly used and functional, but when I got it both the shutter and aperture were stuck. I had to take the shutter apart and replace aperture leaves that had sheared pins and of course clean off the oil that caused the problems. To do this I had to remove the brittle leatherette to get at the shutter plate screws, so it has a new leather skin now. The double exposure preventer was also sticking so the cocking lever would not return at times. That just required some lubrication and a bit of a bend in the preventer lever. It has the letters E-P in a triangle engraved on it, and I think this may mean it was sold in Japan at a military exchange, but I don’t really know. It came to me from Texas. It has a 48/1.9 lens in really nice condition. These Aires 35 IIIL’s are actually pretty easy to work on, though I think a Sumo must have tightened the shutter locking rings. The coupled aperture /shutter speed ring LV system on the Seikosha MXL shutter on this model is really intuitive once you get used to it and understand how to pick a good shutter/aperture combination.
Finally , a Gossen Luna Pro SBC and an earlier Lunasix variable spot finder. I have trouble seeing the small digital screen on the Astrhori meter I was using without glasses, especially in the sun, and this one is no problem as it is huge. (like carrying another camera around). I really like the null meter dial too. The spot finder will take some training.

IMG_0736.jpeg
 
oldhaven said:
I had to take the shutter apart and replace aperture leaves that had sheared pins and of course clean off the oil that caused the problems.
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You mean you can make functional aperture leaves? With pins? Which would be quite a feat. Or did you cannibalize a parts camera?
I have an Aires 35 III waiting since years to be serviced; nothing broken (I think) just remove old oil, including on shutter blades, and clean viewfinder.
Do show us the outcome of test film(s)!
 
I have a parts camera, (a couple actually). It seems these Aires all have the same oil problem. People force them and the pins shear or at the least get displaced. I did another bargain Aires 35 III like yours yesterday that I was able to get working by removing the front lens block and patiently cleaning the shutter leaves with Ronsonol and cotton tipped swabs. I hope that is sufficient. Luckily I did not have to get into the aperture mechanism other than using bulb on the shutter so I could access it to clean it up. the 35III’s have ten leaves instead of the IIIL’s 5 leaves. I bet that is finicky. You can get the shutter out without removing the leatherette, but it is not easy and I had to modify a lens spanner to get into the back and access the locking rings. Hence my Sumo comment above.
 
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Tim Murphy said:
Hello,

I think that straightness depends somewhat on the film you developed and how long it was left to hang. Kentmere Pan 100 in 120 format dried pretty straight. Washi 50 in 35mm dried a little curly. I think I can fix that problem by epoxying some small lead fishing sinkers to the bottom clip without too much trouble.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg PA 🙂
Click to expand...
For Washi-120 film, I use a couple of popsicle sticks clipped to the ends with clothespins to keep the hanging paper film from curling and twisting while it dries. Once it is dried, it naturally curls in the direction that it was rolled up ... Let it sit on edge like that for a day or three so that it dries thoroughly. Then you can cut into strips of three or four and lay into a book if you want it pressed flat. I don't bother: I leave it in a loose curl, stored in a large plastic bag, and scan it that way using an Essential Film Holder with stages for whatever format (6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, or 6x9).
 
p.giannakis said:
I'm going to have a look at this. The 35b is missing the self timer but I hope the lens is in good condition. Does anyone have any experience with it?

Edit: the lens is a super Rokkor 45f/2.8

View attachment 4861304
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I'm not sure what all of these critters are. The camera with the Rokkor 45/2.8 lens on it looks like one of the Minolta LTM rangefinders (Minolta II?). There's another RF-looking camera in there too. Can't tell what lens is on that, but if it's another neat LTM lens, I think this is a good group to consider purchasing. I have the Rokkor 45mm lens and don't use it enough. Good performer, I'm just spoiled with other lenses that have "parallel" mounts where the aperture ring doesn't turn as you focus. Other than that, the Rokkor does quite well.

But what's that other camera/lens on the right edge? Oh, and I used to have a Rollei B. Perfectly wonderful example of those little mini-bricks, even if it isn't one of the "fancy" models. I loved mine.
 
Sears KS 1000 outfit, aka Ricoh XR-1s:

s-l1600.jpg


Purchased on eBay from Green Mountain Camera which accepted my offer of $65.00 plus shipping.
Seller, a brick-and-mortar camera store, states that it is fully working, including exposure meter.

Prior to buying a Pentax KX - my first Pentax and most often used 35mm SLR - one of these was my first K-mount body.

Chris
 
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Leon C said:
What a coincidence, just saw your post an just paid for this little lot.... 😉

View attachment 4861496

Ricoh XR-1s
Winder
Rikenon 28-100/4
Rikenon 50/2
Vivitar 70-150/3.8 CF
Filters etc....
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I still have some of these Colin filters somewhere. They were a "must have" back in the 80s-90s when shooting slides.
 
The seller had two Voigtländer Vito BL cameras, one with Color-Skopar 2.8/50 and the other with Color-Scopar 3.5/50. They had been sitting in a drawer for at least 30 years, none of them tested. I took a chance and bought both, hoping that at least one of them would work. The 2.8 camera is fully working, shutter sounds quite accurate all over the range and even the light meter seems accurate. Has to be tested with film though. The 3.5 camera is also working, but the shutter speeds 1s, 1/2s and 1/4s all sounds like 1/30s. The B setting is OK, the light meter is a couple of steps out of kilter. Both came with beautiful leather cases, original lens hoods and one original UV filter + one third party yellow filter. I got the lot for 80 USD which is quite good given the price level here.

VitoBL.jpg
 
This week I bought a 650w power supply unit for my pc because my old one gave a very loud click noise and the (not very secure) left panel of the case was blown outward by about 1/2 cm! I just about managed to install it by guessing which plug goes where because ALL the plugs and wires in the new one are black and those on my old one seem to be colour coded in some way. on top of that, I thought the 20+4 plug wouldn't fit into the board as the clip seemed to be in the wrong place and the plug had an empty pin-hole which is in a different place to the one on the old 20+4 plug. On top of that there was a four-pin socket on the mobo and NO 4 pin plug on the power supply. I thought I'd have to send it back, but after struggling to get the screw holes lined up with the holes in the case and finally tightening the screws, I did manage to get the 20+4 plug in (by pushing the top end in first, and finding out that the new psu COULD fit into the 4 pin socket as there was a "4+4" pin plug which could be split. So I managed to get it working.

Some time later I looked at thew "Real Temperature" program and it said my two cores were in the upper 50's. EEEK! One is usually at 43C and the other at 37C, I noticed the CPU fan was not turning!

So I did a big switch off and took the side of the case off and it seemed that the fan was being blocked by the cable that had the "4+4" plug on it, so I re-routed it, and now the pc seems to be working well enough.

Having said that, I've yet to try the dvd drive.
 
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