What have you just BOUGHT?

[Vince Lupo]

£20 Delivered, it's hard to say no but I do need it....Well, sort of....[whistles]

View attachment 4883363

I just got my RB67 Pro S kit back from being serviced (with two backs, 90 and 180 lenses). Doug (my repair fellow) showed me all the light seals that he had to clean off and replace in the body and both backs -- not a job I'd wish on anyone.

 

[fub]

Yes, it is. Bar a few aberrations like the one mentioned, the Retinas seem to have been generally well thought out.

i really can't get over the removal of the little portrait mode clip. what were they thinking? it i geniunly bothers me. this little clip is what makes foldables great in low light for me

 

[ped]

Mechanical timer for film developing and a Rondix tank

 

[shawn]

Other two packages arrived. Body was listed as 'Fair' condition (showing wear) and didn't have preview pictures availalbe. Bought it with warranty and return policy so I figured I'd give it a try. Turns out most of the wear is on the finder. Took a bit of a chance on it but it was priced the same as a 500 and has the new style finder and pretty sure an accu-mat screen. The crosshair is embossed in the finder, not black paint.


One problem is the body is firing with the dark slide in. If I take the film back off and hold in the pin on the body it doesn't fire. So not sure if this is a body or back problem? When the back passes 12 exposures it does lock the camera from firing.

Also a question, after shooting and advancing the lens isn't opening back to wide open. I have to rack the aperture to wide open and back to get it fully open again for focusing. I know it is supposed to be this way with the exposure preview but not sure if this is normal or not after shooting? If not might need to send the lens back to KEH. Edit: after shooting it a bunch of times the lens is now opening up fully when winding on. Will keep an eye on this.

Thanks.

 

[Muggins]

i really can't get over the removal of the little portrait mode clip. what were they thinking? it i geniunly bothers me. this little clip is what makes foldables great in low light for me

Even the Contax has a little stand - I can only assume it was a Bright Idea, and we all know where they lead.

 

[Godfrey]

Other two packages arrived. Body was listed as 'Fair' condition (showing wear) and didn't have preview pictures availalbe. Bought it with warranty and return policy so I figured I'd give it a try. Turns out most of the wear is on the finder. Took a bit of a chance on it but it was priced the same as a 500 and has the new style finder and pretty sure an accu-mat screen. The crosshair is embossed in the finder, not black paint.

One problem is the body is firing with the dark slide in. If I take the film back off and hold in the pin on the body it doesn't fire. So not sure if this is a body or back problem? When the back passes 12 exposures it does lock the camera from firing.

Also a question, after shooting and advancing the lens isn't opening back to wide open. I have to rack the aperture to wide open and back to get it fully open again for focusing. I know it is supposed to be this way with the exposure preview but not sure if this is normal or not after shooting? If not might need to send the lens back to KEH. Edit: after shooting it a bunch of times the lens is now opening up fully when winding on. Will keep an eye on this.
...

Sounds to me like both the body, the back, and the lens might be a bit sticky/dirty from years of sitting in a sock drawer or something like that. My M4-2 was like that, particularly the view/rangefinder (also a KEH purchase marked "fair").

A Hasselblad 503 is a lot more complex than a Leica M4-2; it might need a full round of service on body, lens, and back.

G

 

[shawn]

Sounds to me like both the body, the back, and the lens might be a bit sticky/dirty from years of sitting in a sock drawer or something like that. My M4-2 was like that, particularly the view/rangefinder (also a KEH purchase marked "fair").

A Hasselblad 503 is a lot more complex than a Leica M4-2; it might need a full round of service on body, lens, and back.

G

Thanks, found a few places that said the darkslide is a back problem. The simpler 12 version is a little easier to work on, might give it a shot. Apparently a spring gets weak or can be disconnected inside.

The aperture pretty much has to be in the lens since the body is just winding. Going to put a few rolls through it and then see about a CLA. Barn Owl Cameras is in my state and Zack's isn't far from me, not sure if he works on Hasselblads though.

I spread the wealth on this one. Lens came from KEH, the back from Robert's and the body from National Camera Exchange.

 

[Vince Lupo]

Thanks, found a few places that said the darkslide is a back problem. The simpler 12 version is a little easier to work on, might give it a shot. Apparently a spring gets weak or can be disconnected inside.

The aperture pretty much has to be in the lens since the body is just winding. Going to put a few rolls through it and then see about a CLA. Barn Owl Cameras is in my state and Zack's isn't far from me, not sure if he works on Hasselblads though.

I spread the wealth on this one. Lens came from KEH, the back from Robert's and the body from National Camera Exchange.

Jimmy Kilroy (Barn Owl) would be the man for that. Another good option is Kiwi Camera Repair in Florida.

 

[shawn]

The simpler 12 version is a little easier to work on, might give it a shot. Apparently a spring gets weak or can be disconnected inside.

Super easy fix. Took the cover off (that you remove to do light seals) and there are two spring steel pieces that are the dark slide interlocks for the shutter and removing the back.





The shutter one wasn't in place properly. It kind of pops into place then you need to get the cover on without disturbing either interlock. When they are in place they are flush with the back. Now the shutter is locked if the dark slide is in place and unlocked with it removed.

Ordered a light seal kit and will be back in there again when that arrives.

 

[Godfrey]

Thanks, found a few places that said the darkslide is a back problem. The simpler 12 version is a little easier to work on, might give it a shot. Apparently a spring gets weak or can be disconnected inside.

The aperture pretty much has to be in the lens since the body is just winding. Going to put a few rolls through it and then see about a CLA. Barn Owl Cameras is in my state and Zack's isn't far from me, not sure if he works on Hasselblads though.

I spread the wealth on this one. Lens came from KEH, the back from Robert's and the body from National Camera Exchange.

Hmm. With respect to the back, what is "the simpler 12 version"? The one you show in the photos is a pre-A12 model, in other words it doesn't have the "automatic" mechanism that sets the first frame position just by turning a crank on the right side. Far as I'm aware, that's the "simplest" 12 exposure magazine for a Hasselblad 500 series camera.

Yes, the aperture reset problem has to be in the lens. It may work in just by being exercised, but the lens should probably should be given a CLA.

So you have a relatively modern body, a relatively ancient back, and a lens from likely somewhere in the middle.
(You can find the dates the lens, back, and body were made using the lookup mechanism on the Hasselblad Historical site ... )

My 500CMs were both produced about 1978-1979, my SWC/M about 1976.

G

 

[Leon C]

I just got my RB67 Pro S kit back from being serviced (with two backs, 90 and 180 lenses). Doug (my repair fellow) showed me all the light seals that he had to clean off and replace in the body and both backs -- not a job I'd wish on anyone.

Good to hear it's back, for me the cleaning and prep for the new seals is what I like doing and kinda therapeutic and rewarding once done. My new seals will be comimg from France as the UK is quit poor for service parts and done in January.

 

[santino]

An Olympus OM 1. The shutter works, the meters responds to light but it has the dreaded desilvering of the pentaprism on the bottom (a dark line, got to remove that sticky black foam once I get the top cover off). A classic!

The camera came with a lens 😁
A Vivitar series 1 35-85 mm 2.8! I don‘t use vario focal lenses at all but this one is a beauty. A solid piece of metal and glass, constant 2.8 aperture throughout the whole focal range. I don’t expect it to perform excellent (especially wide open) but will give it a try.

 

[Richard G]

A good condition second hand Nikon AR 2 cable release for my IIIf. I see it recommended and it is the most reliable specific purchase I can make for something that will fit a IIIf.

 

[shawn]

Hmm. With respect to the back, what is "the simpler 12 version"? The one you show in the photos is a pre-A12 model, in other words it doesn't have the "automatic" mechanism that sets the first frame position just by turning a crank on the right side. Far as I'm aware, that's the "simplest" 12 exposure magazine for a Hasselblad 500 series camera.

Yes, the aperture reset problem has to be in the lens. It may work in just by being exercised, but the lens should probably should be given a CLA.

So you have a relatively modern body, a relatively ancient back, and a lens from likely somewhere in the middle.
(You can find the dates the lens, back, and body were made using the lookup mechanism on the Hasselblad Historical site ... )

My 500CMs were both produced about 1978-1979, my SWC/M about 1976.

G

Yes, the 12 frame back is simpler than the A12. Very mixed vintage, knew that when I bought it all. The back is from 1964, body from 1988. The later body got me the newer finder and accumat screen included, doubt I will use the TTL flash function. Went with the older back since I can get 2 of the 12 backs for the price of one A12. Wasn't too worried about the auto index for frame 1 as I won't ever be shooting this where reload speed is an issue. Prefer the little bit cleaner look with that back too.

Not sure of the lens vintage as I can't find date coding on it but it should be pre 1973/74 time frame.

 

[p.giannakis]

Santa is completely broke this year so no new cameras or lenses.
Found this filter for £3 in the charity shop so it's going to be wrapped up and straight under the tree 🌲 🎁

 

[Godfrey]

Yes, the 12 frame back is simpler than the A12. Very mixed vintage, knew that when I bought it all. The back is from 1964, body from 1988. The later body got me the newer finder and accumat screen included, doubt I will use the TTL flash function. Went with the older back since I can get 2 of the 12 backs for the price of one A12. Wasn't too worried about the auto index for frame 1 as I won't ever be shooting this where reload speed is an issue. Prefer the little bit cleaner look with that back too.

Not sure of the lens vintage as I can't find date coding on it but it should be pre 1973/74 time frame.

The lens' year of manufacture is found by entering the serial number on the Hasselblad Historical site's tool.



The date codes are for bodies and backs.

When I bought the 907x/CFVII 50c "50 years on the Moon", I knew i'd use the back on the 500CM as well. At that time (2019), B&H still listed the Acute Matte screen for the CFV50c back, which was sold standalone without a body but with a version screen that included FF and Square markings for the digital back. I bought two of them at a princely $195 each and upgraded both my 500CM bodies with them. Whatever the magic they possess, I've found focusing with them nets noticeably sharper results with the digital back than with using the earlier focusing screens, and of course the same is true for use with the film backs but film is flexible and you can barely see it. (... Of course, the sharpest focusing with the CFVII 50c back, and likely the CFV 100c as well, is to use Live View and bypass the reflex viewfinder altogether, but that's a much slower more studied way of working ... 😉 )

G

 

[caila77]

A Fujinon lens and a good Christmas beer

 

[santino]

Very nice combination. Forst beer is a good one 👌

 

[MrFujicaman]

2 Vivitar 365 flashes to get the battery cord. A blistering $5 plus shipping.

 

[fub]

2 Vivitar 365 flashes to get the battery cord. A blistering $5 plus shipping.

funny i received a Vivitar 2800 Flash in its original box, with all the papers and cables for just about 5$ shipping cost yesterday. I just wanted those coloured screens to put in front of the flash.