What have you just BOUGHT?

[Leon C]

Well I did it....In reverse....My idea was to get together an Mamiya RB67 System for £250 or less, seeing as some are priced around 2 or 3 times this!

I did do it but not in the order that I paid less for it, as I bought a CDS Prism Finder for £52 first then was lucky to pick up a later PD Prism Finder for £29.

Total cost will be approx £241.00

Mamiya RB67 Body £99.00
120 Back £22.00 [Reported non working but fixed now]
PD Prism £29.00 [Untested but with new battery all working]
Lens 180/4.5 £49.00 [Fungus but an easy fix]
Batteries for both finders - Silver Oxide £10.00
Screws for back. £7.00
New Seal Kit £25.00 [To be bought]

I did buy the PDS Prism for £52.00 and Extension Tube No.1 for £25.00 which took me over budget but useful additions which I most probably would have added eventually, oh yeah I do need a new eye piece for the finder but fine without it for now.

It will be cleaned properly and seals done in the new year.

 

[davidswiss]

Well I did it....In reverse....My idea was to get together an Mamiya RB67 System for £250 or less, seeing as some are priced around 2 or 3 times this!

I did do it but not in the order that I paid less for it, as I bought a CDS Prism Finder for £52 first then was lucky to pick up a later PD Prism Finder for £29.

Total cost will be approx £241.00

Mamiya RB67 Body £99.00
120 Back £22.00 [Reported non working but fixed now]
PD Prism £29.00 [Untested but with new battery all working]
Lens 180/4.5 £49.00 [Fungus but an easy fix]
Batteries for both finders - Silver Oxide £10.00
Screws for back. £7.00
New Seal Kit £25.00 [To be bought]

I did buy the PDS Prism for £52.00 and Extension Tube No.1 for £25.00 which took me over budget but useful additions which I most probably would have added eventually, oh yeah I do need a new eye piece for the finder but fine without it for now.

It will be cleaned properly and seals done in the new year.

View attachment 4883836

Impressive.

 

[Godfrey]

Ten packs of Fujifilm InstaxSQ B&W instant print media... 😀

G

 

[nikon_sam]

I needed a small project so I bought this Zone VI Enlarger Timer on the bay...
Seller stated it didn't work.
The main contactor relay wasn't getting proper voltage to the solenoid...
Replaced the capacitor feeding the solenoid and all is good...
Paid $36 for the timer, replacement capacitor $2

 

[lolocardenas]

Been meaning to try a Barnack style RF so I got a Zorki 1 + I22 off eBay, merry Christmas to me hehe! Depending on my experience with the Barnack style, I might go all in and go for a Leica IIIG as my end game.

 

[Wenge]

Well I did it....In reverse....My idea was to get together an Mamiya RB67 System for £250 or less, seeing as some are priced around 2 or 3 times this!

I did do it but not in the order that I paid less for it, as I bought a CDS Prism Finder for £52 first then was lucky to pick up a later PD Prism Finder for £29.

Total cost will be approx £241.00

Mamiya RB67 Body £99.00
120 Back £22.00 [Reported non working but fixed now]
PD Prism £29.00 [Untested but with new battery all working]
Lens 180/4.5 £49.00 [Fungus but an easy fix]
Batteries for both finders - Silver Oxide £10.00
Screws for back. £7.00
New Seal Kit £25.00 [To be bought]

I did buy the PDS Prism for £52.00 and Extension Tube No.1 for £25.00 which took me over budget but useful additions which I most probably would have added eventually, oh yeah I do need a new eye piece for the finder but fine without it for now.

It will be cleaned properly and seals done in the new year.

View attachment 4883836

once you get the Mamiya running it will be a joy, i had one 645 1000s they just work. Best of luck.

 

[Godfrey]

I just pressed the button on buyina a Lomo LC-A 120 ... Probably a stupid idea since i have so many cameras, but eh? It should be fun. 🙂

G

 

[joe bosak]

Got a Sigma 10mm (diagonal) fisheye in SA mount.

 

[Leon C]

once you get the Mamiya running it will be a joy, i had one 645 1000s they just work. Best of luck.

Thanks Wenge, I'm looking forward to it, I did own a 645 in the 90's and loved it and my Fuji G690 needs some fettling so not used it yet.

 

[shawn]

Returned the not totally functional 80mm planar to KEH and received this today. Again BGN condition. Cosmetics are very good but this time the paint wear is on the shutter speeds. Will need to figure something out there. There is a mark on the lens that I think is a piece of debris behind the front element. Need to look at that closer.

Aperture seems to be working properly after winding. Tested the shutter speeds and they are consistent and pretty close.







Also received a replacement foot for the Hasselblad that is ARCA compatible. It doesn't fit my body correctly though, the manufacturer is going to see about adapting that to fit.

EDIT: After looking over this lens more closely it ended up going back too. It had a small nick in the glass which was showing as a darker spot at the film plane. Was visible from f2.8 through 5.6. Going to give up on the silver quest for now.....

 

[Rob MacKillop]

Seagull 203 to use up some old 120 film, after which I'll be selling it. Curious about this camera. Looks in good condition, and everything seems to be working...at least until I insert a film spool...we shall see.

 

[Godfrey]

Returned the not totally functional 80mm planar to KEH and received this today. Again BGN condition. Cosmetics are very good but this time the paint wear is on the shutter speeds. Will need to figure something out there. There is a mark on the lens that I think is a piece of debris behind the front element. Need to look at that closer.

Aperture seems to be working properly after winding. Tested the shutter speeds and they are consistent and pretty close.

View attachment 4883988

View attachment 4883987

View attachment 4883989

Also received a replacement foot for the Hasselblad that is ARCA compatible. It doesn't fit my body correctly though, the manufacturer is going to see about adapting that to fit.

I leave the standard Hasselblad foot in place and use an Acratech A-S camera plate with it. Available in 3/8 and 1/4 inch screw versions:

Hasselblad 3/8" - 16 Plate 2143

precision machined camera quick release plate for arca swiss tripod quick release systems

www.acratech.net

Hasselblad 1/4"-20 Plate 2144

precision machined camera quick release plate for arca swiss tripod quick release systems

www.acratech.net

Fits perfectly, works with every A-S clamp I've tried.

G

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Six used Kodak stirring paddles

$10 plus postage on eBay
I wanted only one, but these were the only Kodak I could find, except 4 new ones on Etsy for $75.

Also $50 miscellaneous darkroom supplies from B&H.

Chris

 

[JeffS7444]

I just pressed the button on buyina a Lomo LC-A 120 ... Probably a stupid idea since i have so many cameras, but eh? It should be fun. 🙂

I felt it was halfway between a lo-fi plastic camera and a serious camera, and got some fun results from it. There was a sort of trick to wriggling film spools in and out of it, but I've forgotten what it was.

 

[MrFujicaman]

A 100 ft roll of Kentmere 200 from B&H.

 

[trix4ever]

I've fallen very badly down the rabbit hole of tilt shift lenses, but I reckon this Canon 24mm ts-e mkii is the sharpest so far. It's sharp into the corners at full aperture , and at f8 with 12mm shift it is still sharp into the corners.
It covers so well I keep thinking an X2D or GFX might be in my future, shame the electronic shutter in the Hassy is so slow. And I've had 6 Fuji's and never bonded with any of them. I think the S1r will suffice for now.
My 17mm ts-e electric aperture died so Canon Australia replaced it, serviced the lens including realigning the lens elements and it's sharper than ever.

 

[shawn]

I've fallen very badly down the rabbit hole of tilt shift lenses, but I reckon this Canon 24mm ts-e mkii is the sharpest so far. It's sharp into the corners at full aperture , and at f8 with 12mm shift it is still sharp into the corners.
It covers so well I keep thinking an X2D or GFX might be in my future, shame the electronic shutter in the Hassy is so slow. And I've had 6 Fuji's and never bonded with any of them. I think the S1r will suffice for now.
My 17mm ts-e electric aperture died so Canon Australia replaced it, serviced the lens including realigning the lens elements and it's sharper than ever.

Welcome to the club, we have jackets. 😉

That looks like a nice setup, especially if it is doing 12mm of shift and still sharp in the corner for a 35mm lens. I have the early Nikkor 28 and 35mm PC lenses, and the Rokinon 24mm. Pretty sure they won't stay sharp in the corners at 12mm of shift.

The other fun way of til/shift is with adapted MF lenses. I have a shift adapter and tilt/shift adapter for Pentax 645 and then use the Pentax adapter for my Pentax 67 lenses. No worries about running out of coverage with them. The 105 2.4 tilted can be fun for portraits.

 

[trix4ever]

Welcome to the club, we have jackets. 😉

That looks like a nice setup, especially if it is doing 12mm of shift and still sharp in the corner for a 35mm lens. I have the early Nikkor 28 and 35mm PC lenses, and the Rokinon 24mm. Pretty sure they won't stay sharp in the corners at 12mm of shift.

The other fun way of til/shift is with adapted MF lenses. I have a shift adapter and tilt/shift adapter for Pentax 645 and then use the Pentax adapter for my Pentax 67 lenses. No worries about running out of coverage with them. The 105 2.4 tilted can be fun for portraits.

Thanks for that.
I also have the Nikkor 35mm PC lens and mine is pretty sharp with moderate movements. And you need less movements with the longer focal length. I have owned 2 copies of the Nikkor 28mm f3.5 and frankly both were very ordinary on digital. I didn't like the 28mm even unshifted and shifting it was hopeless at any aperture. My 28mm Leica R shift lens is much sharper, even at 8mm shift in the corners.
I have just bought both the 90mm and 45mm ts-e lenses to go with the 17mm and 24mm for a major project I'm doing, so I feel I've earned one of those jackets...

 

[Wenge]

need to occupy naughty corner..M8.2 on the way as recent buy, took weeks to decide and nail it.

d700 is not ccd but the process rhymes i think. i rented the m8 in 2014 and had no clue w/rangefinder, so no excuses this time.

 

[jaredangle]

Well I did it....In reverse....My idea was to get together an Mamiya RB67 System for £250 or less, seeing as some are priced around 2 or 3 times this!

I did do it but not in the order that I paid less for it, as I bought a CDS Prism Finder for £52 first then was lucky to pick up a later PD Prism Finder for £29.

Total cost will be approx £241.00

Mamiya RB67 Body £99.00
120 Back £22.00 [Reported non working but fixed now]
PD Prism £29.00 [Untested but with new battery all working]
Lens 180/4.5 £49.00 [Fungus but an easy fix]
Batteries for both finders - Silver Oxide £10.00
Screws for back. £7.00
New Seal Kit £25.00 [To be bought]

I did buy the PDS Prism for £52.00 and Extension Tube No.1 for £25.00 which took me over budget but useful additions which I most probably would have added eventually, oh yeah I do need a new eye piece for the finder but fine without it for now.

It will be cleaned properly and seals done in the new year.

View attachment 4883836

The 180mm is a fantastic lens. I have the RZ version and it’s nice and sharp and works well as a short telephoto for portraits.