I need to find an online shop for good quality framing material. Local frame shops charge an arm and a leg for mat boards and frames.
oftheherd
Veteran
Besides whatever the good members of this forum may provide, you might try a search of the PP&I forums. I seem to remember that coming up in the last couple of monyhs.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
I cut my own mats. A 30 inch X 40 inch mat board costs between $5.00 and $ 7.00 at most art and drafting supply stores. One of those will frame 4-11X14's. You can cut them with a piece of plywood for a cutting mat, a Stanley Box Cutter (don't use an Exacto knife unless you have hands made of steel) and a steel layout ruler.
-Paul
-Paul
Paul, you must have a steadier hand than I! The cutter blade seems to have a mind of its own and "dives" into the steel guide.. :-(
I use and suggest Alto's EZ Mat cutter, inexpensive and effective, and coincidentally made near here, in the same state as Jorge...
Here's some info: http://www.altosezmat.com/
I haven't bought new frames for quite a few years, as I keep using the same ones over and over. Light Impressions has just about everything you'd need for framing, and where I got my supplies.
http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping
I use and suggest Alto's EZ Mat cutter, inexpensive and effective, and coincidentally made near here, in the same state as Jorge...
Here's some info: http://www.altosezmat.com/
I haven't bought new frames for quite a few years, as I keep using the same ones over and over. Light Impressions has just about everything you'd need for framing, and where I got my supplies.
http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping
fcg
Member
ah;jt;
i of course do my own work; and my suppliers are graphic dimensions- metal section frames;& glass.
and light impressions for archivally appropriate materials.; mattes; glues;backing bds;etc. a good reading of the catologue will educate you considerably. also look at books on museum standards for matting and framing.
cutting mattes is easier if you use 2 ply museum bd.
for hanging i make up paper tapes using archival papers and glues-
i preferr not to drymount; as i think the idea of adhering a print to another bd is not a good archival choice- as you would never do that with a etching or litho print.
you can also use silk thread for hangers- i do that with small prints; and i also use linnen tape hangers- which are fine too.
the print should in my thinking be able to accomidate the changes in temp and humidity in a free manner.
that means sometimes the work is not squashed dead flat.
its a trade off.
i use the dry mt press to cold dry and flatten prints.-
it works fine.
fcg
i of course do my own work; and my suppliers are graphic dimensions- metal section frames;& glass.
and light impressions for archivally appropriate materials.; mattes; glues;backing bds;etc. a good reading of the catologue will educate you considerably. also look at books on museum standards for matting and framing.
cutting mattes is easier if you use 2 ply museum bd.
for hanging i make up paper tapes using archival papers and glues-
i preferr not to drymount; as i think the idea of adhering a print to another bd is not a good archival choice- as you would never do that with a etching or litho print.
you can also use silk thread for hangers- i do that with small prints; and i also use linnen tape hangers- which are fine too.
the print should in my thinking be able to accomidate the changes in temp and humidity in a free manner.
that means sometimes the work is not squashed dead flat.
its a trade off.
i use the dry mt press to cold dry and flatten prints.-
it works fine.
fcg
P
pshinkaw
Guest
It's less of a steady hand than a light touch. Start the cut on the back side in case the blade wanders and take several light cuts, just scoring the cut repeatedly. With a sharp blade it usually takes about 6 strokes to cut completely through.
-Paul
-Paul