Bob Ross
Well-known
For me wide angle/Ultra wide angles belong to the dominant foreground style of landscape/city scape shooting. That is you find a subject in the distance, decide how big it should be in your frame, move to where it is that size, close your lens down and then turn into a squirrel looking for something attractive to put into the foreground. This is actuall a good style for high MP P&S digicams....lots of DOF.
The short and medium tele lenses are for those scenes that have ugly or unapproachable foregrounds that you want to shoot past......fences, powerlines, harbors, freeways/highways. They are also good for those that want distance detail, as they magnify. Lenses shorter than the diagonal of the sensor actually demaginify/reduce the image detail and with digital, the leaves on that distant tree will turn into blobs floating in the air.
On the M8 I have been reaching for my 50 Cron.
Bob
The short and medium tele lenses are for those scenes that have ugly or unapproachable foregrounds that you want to shoot past......fences, powerlines, harbors, freeways/highways. They are also good for those that want distance detail, as they magnify. Lenses shorter than the diagonal of the sensor actually demaginify/reduce the image detail and with digital, the leaves on that distant tree will turn into blobs floating in the air.
On the M8 I have been reaching for my 50 Cron.
Bob
ferider
Veteran
It completely depends on what you want. I never use (any more) wider than 28, but longer than that anything is usable, depending on motive. All on film:
28mm (lots of foreground):
35mm (note: no foreground, but the sky is interesting - you only get this with a wide):
50mm:
90mm:
135mm:
200mm:
The classic Adams set on 6x6 was 50, 80, 150 and 250mm, roughly translating to 28, 50, 90 and 135 on 35mm film. The Moon over El Capitan was shot with both 80 and 250 and over-layed in the darkroom.
Look at some photos from other people that you like, and see which focal length you get attracted to.
Roland.
28mm (lots of foreground):
35mm (note: no foreground, but the sky is interesting - you only get this with a wide):
50mm:
90mm:
135mm:
200mm:
The classic Adams set on 6x6 was 50, 80, 150 and 250mm, roughly translating to 28, 50, 90 and 135 on 35mm film. The Moon over El Capitan was shot with both 80 and 250 and over-layed in the darkroom.
Look at some photos from other people that you like, and see which focal length you get attracted to.
Roland.
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ramosa
B&W
ferider: that b&w with the 90mm is stunning.
agueco
Member
Ferider: Thanks for the great visual aides! Excellent ;o) I admit I was in the camp that a good landscape lens must be wide to include as much "landscape" as possible. Now I've happily learned something new. This is what is so great about RFF. You learn a lot from the experienced ;o)
sailronin
Established
I've just started with an M8 but on 35mm my landscape lenses tend to be pretty wide (between 17 and 24mm) or medium telephoto (100-200mm). Can't wait to get shooting some landscapes with the M8, I imagine the 24 and 90 will be the choices.
bo_lorentzen
Established
Dave, check out the Voigtlander 15mm also, in M mount, code as WATE, it is a quite lovely lens on the M8, shoot at 5.6-8 for landscape.
Bo
www.bophoto.typepad.com
Bo
www.bophoto.typepad.com
macfiend
Established
Usually the Voigtlander 15.
Cron
Well-known
Yosemite and the coast - really great pictures for me!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
I have not read all this thread but...
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
downstairs
downstairs
35mm Summilux. Three vertical stitches.
50mm Summicron. Four vertical stitches.
The idea is to get more detail from a longer lens onto a larger sensor.
I have a lightweight vertical bracket with holes drilled for 28,35 & 50mm nodes.
50mm Summicron. Four vertical stitches.
The idea is to get more detail from a longer lens onto a larger sensor.
I have a lightweight vertical bracket with holes drilled for 28,35 & 50mm nodes.
Spotlight
Newbie
Agree, with some exceptions.
dotur
od karnevala
Jeicob
Amateur
I would love to see a picture of that, pleasedownstairs
downstairs
Jeicob, Ok bracket next monday. Leica gave me those two node measurements. Anyone know the measurements for 50 Summicron and 90 Macro - I've been guessing up to now.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Hmm The Elmar-M 50/2.8 is the smallest lens to carry
And if you want wideangle, just stich the images. This was handheld without special care, as I did not plan to stich them initially:
And if you want wideangle, just stich the images. This was handheld without special care, as I did not plan to stich them initially:
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downstairs
downstairs
Tuesday.
HERE is the ultra-light-weight stitching bracket.
I did it with a hacksaw in a mitre box. Had a hard time finding the imperial screw taps over here. I now have 1.8 meters of useless alu profile.
You must GET THE NODES RIGHT for your lens. Ask Leica, they only publish the distance to the front element.
HERE is the ultra-light-weight stitching bracket.
I did it with a hacksaw in a mitre box. Had a hard time finding the imperial screw taps over here. I now have 1.8 meters of useless alu profile.
You must GET THE NODES RIGHT for your lens. Ask Leica, they only publish the distance to the front element.
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Jeicob
Amateur
Thanks
ferider
Veteran
Very cool !
oldoc
oldoc
Well, Roger, you changed my thinking here...
I'm going to follow your course, and see what happens.
Still keeping the 29ASPH and the UC hex in the bag, though, as well as the ZM 25.
I'm not sure the 90 Summicron is right for my M8: at my age, I have to use my 1.25 magnifier to focus the damn thing!!!!
I'm going to follow your course, and see what happens.
Still keeping the 29ASPH and the UC hex in the bag, though, as well as the ZM 25.
I'm not sure the 90 Summicron is right for my M8: at my age, I have to use my 1.25 magnifier to focus the damn thing!!!!
JSPhoto
Member
My favorite is the 25mm Biogon.