farlymac
PF McFarland
So I got tired the other night of the FrankenZorki just sitting around not pulling it's weight, and decided to rework the shutter curtains (it's a Franken camera because it's a 1d with a rangefinder from an older model, thus it has two serial numbers). Just some fabric paint, nothing drastic like LET. But after several coats (and this is the second time I've done this), I still am getting light coming through, so maybe it's time to replace them.
My options are:
1: Buy a new set of curtains, and do the install as a practice for other cams that may need it later on (remember, this is a FrankenZorki, so I'm not all that enamored with it in the first place).
2: Buy a better Zorki 1d. BTW, I also cleaned out, and re-lubed the I-22 that came with it, so it's chomping at the bit for some action.
3: Buy a FED 2c. I bought an I-26M lever focus for the Zorki before the shutter started going south, and really like the lens. Plus, the 2c was the first camera it was sold with, so that would make for a correct set-up.
I could also go for a 2d for the newer shutter speeds. I really like the idea of a combined range/viewfinder, and I can still use the I-22 on it for pocket-ability.
Maybe it's time to retire the Zorki.
PF
My options are:
1: Buy a new set of curtains, and do the install as a practice for other cams that may need it later on (remember, this is a FrankenZorki, so I'm not all that enamored with it in the first place).
2: Buy a better Zorki 1d. BTW, I also cleaned out, and re-lubed the I-22 that came with it, so it's chomping at the bit for some action.
3: Buy a FED 2c. I bought an I-26M lever focus for the Zorki before the shutter started going south, and really like the lens. Plus, the 2c was the first camera it was sold with, so that would make for a correct set-up.
I could also go for a 2d for the newer shutter speeds. I really like the idea of a combined range/viewfinder, and I can still use the I-22 on it for pocket-ability.
Maybe it's time to retire the Zorki.
PF
02Pilot
Malcontent
From a usability standpoint, the FED-2 will be a considerable improvement with either lens. That's the way I would go if my primary concern was putting an FSU into service.
Austintatious
Well-known
+1 for the FED-2 (C or D)
I have been very happy with mine. I have a black J8 to go with the I22 shown below.
FED II & I 22 Collapsible lens by carlosyashinon, on Flickr
I have been very happy with mine. I have a black J8 to go with the I22 shown below.
FED II & I 22 Collapsible lens by carlosyashinon, on Flickr
gb hill
Veteran
Hold off on buying a Fed 2. I got one I will send you. It has the self wind lever but the curtains are stripped out so it's gotta have new curtains. There might be something else broken (spring) but I'm not sure. Your gonna have to wait awhile before I send it, just went through a triple hernia surgery so ya gotta wait til I'm back on my feet. Visual it's a beautiful camera.
gb hill
Veteran
My Fed looks like the one pictured above. 
farlymac
PF McFarland
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I'll second that and add, why not restore all of them? They are decent cameras and there's too many about that have been messed up...
Regards, David
wolves3012
Veteran
Just a suggestion for option 1: don't buy a ready-made set of curtains, I've seen a few people try that and say they do not fit well. Buy some shutter cloth (I'd recommend highly the Aki Asahi double-cloth material) and make your own, using the old ones as templates. It's a bit of a fiddly job, especially getting the shutter assembled but it's quite do-able. Look up Jay Javier's FED and Zorki survival site for good instructions.
gb hill
Veteran
With the Fed that I send him he won't have the old curtains to use as a template. It might still have one side still in the camera. Fedka has some curtains that should work.
http://fedka.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=590
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
It is much easier to replace curtains on Zorki 1 comparing FED 2.
I puchaided curtains kit for FED 2, same price was for curtains material for two Zorki.
I prefer new material, not old kit.
Zorki and FED2 are two very different cameras. Very hard to find Zorki with good curtains, FED 2 was no problem.
I puchaided curtains kit for FED 2, same price was for curtains material for two Zorki.
I prefer new material, not old kit.
Zorki and FED2 are two very different cameras. Very hard to find Zorki with good curtains, FED 2 was no problem.
farlymac
PF McFarland
I've consulted the FED/Zorki Survival site many times, Wolves. That was how I found out it was easy to open up the Zorki. I haven't looked at all the curtain sources yet, but thanks for reminding me about Aki Asahi. I haven't perused the Maisenberg manual yet, but do you think it would have the proper lengths for the FED curtains?
David, I haven't totally given up on the Zorki, as it's the first FSU camera I've ever bought, and would like to think I can get it back into working condition.
PF
David, I haven't totally given up on the Zorki, as it's the first FSU camera I've ever bought, and would like to think I can get it back into working condition.
PF
gb hill
Veteran
I do have both curtains for this camera. One is still operational but the tension is off of course. I thought I threw the other, torn curtain away but I found it in the lens nose of the stinky russian leather case. I think this camera will be a breeze of a fix for Phil.
wolves3012
Veteran
Seriously, the key to successfully getting a properly working camera with new curtains is to get them positioned correctly on the drum end and to get the curtains the right length. This is what gives the correct slit-width and, hence, film exposure. Even if you can find a quoted figure for dimensions, I'm not sure I'd trust it too much since I'm sure there was variation.
Assuming the original curtains are in place and only light-leaky, careful marking of the old ones and making new ones the same size simplifies the task greatly. Score a mark on the drum along the edge of the old ones, on the drum end, before removing and then fit the new ones in the exact marked position. Likewise the tapes (if you're replacing) must attach to a known point at the drum end.
The curtain that attaches to the tension rollers does not need any particular positioning, except to be "square-on". Equally true for the tapes that attach to the other tension roller.
There's a lot of satisfaction to re-curtaining, especially if you've taken the obvious opportunity to do a very thorough CLA. The end result may surprise you at how smooth it'll be and you'll know it will last for many years to come.
Penny Lane
Hopelessly Citrophile
I've used dead Zenits as curtain donors... In some cases, it takes some careful trimming to fit them properly but that's not too difficult. Cheap as chips, too!
Sidenote: I still wonder when someone with the skills for it will adapt the ball-bearing main drum out of a Zenit E-series for a Zorki or FED... Building a Zorki-1K might be fun!
Derk
Sidenote: I still wonder when someone with the skills for it will adapt the ball-bearing main drum out of a Zenit E-series for a Zorki or FED... Building a Zorki-1K might be fun!
Derk
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David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Interesting thought about the 1K. There's people around that will buy up 2 or 3 old cars and make one good one out of them, then wait for the next old one to turn up. Some even fit more modern parts that have evolved from the original.
So getting hold of say three or four Zorki 1's and then starting to strip them all down and so on should be possible. I wonder if our friends in china have thought about it, after they've done a small run of OKARO's (please, please) of course.
Regards, David
PS And think about starting with a FED 2 or two and adding the lever wind...
farlymac
PF McFarland
It looks as though I've talked myself into a couple of restoration projects here. I looked at the Aki Asahi site, and saw the lovely skins for the Zorki 1d. Now I get to learn how to remove the old vulcanite covering.
I happen to have a Zenit-E, Derk, that the curtains came loose on. That's another project down the road.
PF
I happen to have a Zenit-E, Derk, that the curtains came loose on. That's another project down the road.
PF
wolves3012
Veteran
Put the shell in the oven at 200C - ONLY the bare shell. Once it's hot, take it out and (carefully!) scrape the stuff off. When it cools, put it back in again - rinse, lather & repeat. Not a fun job and I wouldn't put it on the best cooking tray or you'll be in trouble!
farlymac
PF McFarland
You think a blow drier on high would work, Wolves?
PF
PF
farlymac
PF McFarland
I can hereby report that the blow drier is not a good idea, as you can't get the heat to sink in good. A toaster oven though worked wonders, with some aluminum foil to protect the pan. That, and a cheap wood chisel I didn't mind messing up. It's all stripped of vulcanite now.
Next step is to repaint the metal edging.
PF
Next step is to repaint the metal edging.
PF
Penny Lane
Hopelessly Citrophile
Now there's a thought. I'd expect the winding mechanism to fit on the body with little problems, but stuffing it under the top plate might cue some serious metal working... Wouldn't mind a lever-winding FED-2 though!
The only drawback of using dead Zenits is that we might run out of Zenits and spares for good ones
Luckily there's still quite a few around...Derk