rxmd
May contain traces of nut
I don't know. I'm not a designer either and in this thread the temptation is of course to come up with a lot of ideas for an anti-1950s folder. 🙂 Anyway here's a couple of ideas for a somewhat different MF folder, some of them with notes on feasibility:FrankS said:RXMD, just wondering, how would you have designed a MF folder?
(1) Body design:
(1.1) Angular, maybe with a slightly molded grip but not too prominent. The Makina 67 had a brilliantly designed body, and so had the 1970s/1980s Agfa Optimas in 35mm. Take this as a model.
(1.2) Lens standard with a sideway fold-out for sturdiness. This kind of lens mount will always be somewhat flimsy but we can look to minimize the flimsiness. The GS645 was pretty decent in this respect.
(2) Controls:
(2.1) Lever wind.
(2.2) If we're building an electronic camera anyway we can also think about motor wind, which would be cool, and if Konica can do it in an M-sized body then it's possible in a compact medium-format body as well. But it's not really necessary. Rewind isn't necessary anyway.
(2.3) An M5-style control wheel, slightly protruding to the front, with the rewind lever on top and the shutter release button in the middle.
(2.4) Depending on how much you want the electronics to influence the user interface, either engrave shutter speeds on the control wheel and add an extra ISO control. Then you have a camera with a completely classic user interface. Or you can leave the control wheel blank and add a couple of T90-style buttons at the back for thumb usage (such as one for ISO, one for exposure compensation, etc.), then you have a camera with a user interface more like 1990s SLRs. After using a T90 for a while I'd prefer the latter, but I guess most users here would choose the former. Either way, there could be a flap somewhere with one or two buttons or a little joystick underneath it for rangefinder calibration.
(3) Rangefinder / Lenses.
(3.1) If you want to build an electronic camera anyway, like this already is designed to be, you can embrace electronics all the way instead of just building AE into it and otherwise pretending it's manual. Such as:
(3.2) Optical rangefinder, with framelines, but with electronic actuation of the rangefinder patch. This is pretty trivial to do, just needs an actuator in place of the RF transfer mechanism from the lens. Information from the lens is transferred electronically. This needs a sensor in the helical, but it's trivial to do as well; any AF lens has this built in, and nowadays it's easier and cheaper to do this reliably than a mechanical linkage.
(3.3) Electronic leaf shutter built into the lens. A focal plane shutter would be cooler but it would also make the body bigger which we don't want. Aperture-priority AE.
(3.4) And now the point of 1.1 to 1.3 above: Interchangeable lenses, Mamiya TLR-style in a twist-lock bayonet mount built into the front standard, only with just one lens instead of two. With the shutter built into the lens this is pretty easy. Mechanically there's not much happening anyway because all data transfer is electronic. There are plenty of systems that have this kind of body-lens connection nowadays with electronic shutters, from newer Hasselblads to the Rollei 6000 series. Metering cell on the lens, so that filters are automatically compensated for and the metering pattern can be designed for every lens individually.
(3.5) Because data transfer is electronic and the rangefinder is electronic, the rangefinder can adapt to the focal length of the lens automatically. Standard issue would be a 55, an 80 and a 135 or something like this. It also makes it possible to build an autofocus lens at some point in the future if anyone is ever interested in that.
(3.6) Electronic framelines using a LED system. Automatic parallax compensation, automatic compensation of FOV shrinkage, less mechanical trouble, no problems with display in the dark, easy adaptation to whatever focal length you want to produce in the future.
(3.7) We'll need a couple of batteries. Not too much because there's not many motors etc. The Hexar RF shows that they don't need to be big even if the camera is motorized. Have the thing run off two flat standard batteries, with a battery compartment accessible from the bottom (next to one of the rolls of film), from the side or even at the top next to the hot shoe where the electronics are.
(3.8) This is not really design, rather thinking about features, but if we're building electronics into the camera anyway, have the camera print exposure information in the film margin like the newer 645 bodies do.
These are just a couple of ideas for an MF folding camera that aims less to recreate a 1950s look and interface concept, and more to produce the best possible film camera given what's possible today. This is of course a completely different camera, but it seems more interesting to me. However I guess whoever here is interested in recreating a 1950s camera wouldn't be too interested in this beast 😉
Philipp