JChrome
Street Worker
But what you lack in mobility, you gain in people's willingness to be photographed.
For some reason, most people hate being photo'd surreptitiously but when they see a large format camera, they swoon and line up to be shot!
Really odd phenomenon...
Texsport
Well-known
Fujica 690 + flash for street photography + Even Bigger!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=husZVvBQFaM
Texsport
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=husZVvBQFaM
Texsport
awbphotog
Well-known
Thanks for this post Texsport. Nice images coming from the 6x9 + flash.
EDIT: any idea what flash he's using?
Prest_400
Multiformat
I think Kip is around here RFF. He did write an entry in his site about the Fuji GW690 and how he used a metz45, that combo is even more brutal hugeness.
By the way, I liked to see him working around with them and his fast street style.
I'm leaving for a few months on exchange and the Fuji will stay at home.
What is wrong? I'd need quite some budget that as a student I don't have for shooting mucho 6x9 plus I'd want to carry a tripod and need to pack tight and light.
OM-1 is coming with me though. Has anyone noticed the commonality between these cameras of having the aperture and shutter rings around the lens area?
Texsport
Well-known
I'm going to be in the Duluth, MN area in a few weeks.
I may try to find Kip when I'm there. It would be nice to soak up some of his knowledge, as I'm a big user of the Fujica 670/690 series of cameras.
Texsport
I may try to find Kip when I'm there. It would be nice to soak up some of his knowledge, as I'm a big user of the Fujica 670/690 series of cameras.
Texsport
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
UPDATE: I was not lucky in getting a perfect lens for no money ($239.00). I contacted Frank Marshman to get my lens repaired if possible. Frank says there are two likely possibilities where my meter cell might be dying or dead which is the most likely, but there is a slim chance that it might be a bad aperture ring that has fouled contacts which is unlikely and remote.
My plan "B" if a repair cannot be implemented is to get another standard 100/3.5, preferably a later version with the rubber checkered focus ring, and have Frank transplant the EBC glass into a non AE lens barrel. No AE function, no extended shutter speeds, but no battery and added durability.
Looking forward to comparing and having a single coated 100/3.5 as well as a EBC 100/3.5 with a more modern look.
Cal
JChrome
Street Worker
There may be some commonality between the cameras because the shutter ring around the lens, but that's a superficial commonality. Deep down, these cameras are very different. The 690 has the shutter speed on the lens because the shutter is within the lens. The OM-1's shutter is within the body.
Where are you headed? The OM-1 will be fun!
JChrome
Street Worker
Best of luck!
Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I'm really interested in whether Frank can transplant the EBC glass into the older style lens.
I really want to know if he could transplant the glass from a GSW690 into a 65mm 5.6 body... now that would be cool!
awbphotog
Well-known
This is all very exciting. My AE100, which was serviced less than two months ago, is already acting up. I shot a single roll with it, then sat it on my gear shelf for a month. Tried it out yesterday, and the shutter speeds are sticking. Disappointing, but perhaps I should just do the transplant as well if possible. Either way...I am happy to know a few of us are using these cameras and spreading knowledge about them. Thanks guys!
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
My understanding is that the optics are the same between the two lenses except the differences in the coatings: one being single coated; and the other EBC multicoated. I have been in contact with Frank and mentioned my plan "B" the transplant in an earlier e-mail. Right now both Frank and I have just come back from vacation so when Frank gets to open the parcel that was delivered in the last week of July and inspect the problem I will supply a further update.
I saw a cool chrome standard 100/3.5 that might be cooler than a later rubber checkered late 100/3.5 as far as a donor body.
My thinking is to have a low contrast retro single coated lens as well as a modern multicoated version. Might have to buy another GL690 body. I imagine since the 100/3.5 is a simple Tessar formula with few elements that the contrast will be rather high due to few lens reflections kinda like my Nikon 45/2.8P AIS another Tessar design.
Cal
I saw a cool chrome standard 100/3.5 that might be cooler than a later rubber checkered late 100/3.5 as far as a donor body.
My thinking is to have a low contrast retro single coated lens as well as a modern multicoated version. Might have to buy another GL690 body. I imagine since the 100/3.5 is a simple Tessar formula with few elements that the contrast will be rather high due to few lens reflections kinda like my Nikon 45/2.8P AIS another Tessar design.
Cal
Spanik
Well-known
On a french forum someone did a test between a single and multi coated lens for the C330: no visible differences in any of the shots he took.
JChrome
Street Worker
There should definitely be a 'flare test'. This is where the MCs are really supposed to excel.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I would think there would be a difference in contrast and in detail. The idea of multicoating is to prevent losses. Of course differences are more easily seen if printed big. In color there I expect more saturated colors with the multicoating.
In my own experience there are pretty big differences between my single coated lenses and my multicoated ones even if I'm not comparing apples to apples or oranges to oranges.
Definately I would say a softer more retro look with single coat along with lower contrast; more detail, less possibility of flare, higher contrast and more saturated colors with multicoating. One look is kinda retro; the other more modern.
I'd like to know more about the evaluation performed on the French forum.
Cal
JChrome
Street Worker
Cal -
I've got a buddy whose got the GW690 with an EBC Multi-Coating. I think this weekend I might do a compare and contrast between these four different lenses/formats:
Nikon F3 with Nikkor 35mm AIS F1.4
Leica M3 with Zeiss ZM 35mm F2
Fuji GW690mk III with 90mm F3.5
Fuji GL690 with 100mm F3.5
My buddy never really understood the differences between a 135mm frame and a 6x9 frame so I originally wanted to test that and show how these Fujis render. But now I also want to test the single coating versus the multi-coating.
If you were doing a test, what kind of tests would you run and how would you run it?
Say have these three scenarios, all shooting Portra 160:
1) Looking out my back porch, lots of green and muted yellows from the houses, focused at infinite, sun within the shot.
2) On the street, more saturated colors, sun from behind, focused at infinite.
3) On the street, muted colors, sun from behind, focused at infinite.
Each scene will be metered and then bracketed with three shots.
So I suppose the variables I really care about changing within my scenarios are:
- Color rendition
- Flare handling
- Contrast
- Image draw
Any suggestions would be helpful!
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Jeremy,
The problem I see with your venture is too many variables. You are trying to compare too many things, and for any test to be valid one has to minimize differences.
As far as comparing multicoating verses single coating it is probably best to wait till I get a working lens back from Frank that has the AE glass installed. Then basically the only other variation might be the calibration of the shutters inside each lens (highly unlikely that the shutters will be perfectly the same). The idea here is to limit variations to be more scientific, otherwise data gets kinda not definitive.
In the French post I'm not sure how the results were guaged or if somehow processing or post processing of the images equalized the end results. Somehow with any evaluation some form of standards needs to be maintained to create an enviornment for fair judgement.
In my example above I am not using different cameras and I would use the same body, but even so the difference between the shutters could effect exposure and already that could be an unintended second variable that could skew results from being just about lens coating.
Another factor could be haze where one lens has been recently service and the othe might not be so prestinely clean. This could also be another secondary variable that will effect testing accuracy.
Then how do you measure accurately any difference, In the French post was the image scanned in the same exact manner with the same exact parameters? How was the image optimized? How big was the image printed if it was (Large prints show differences better than small prints).
In my experience focal length has an effect on contrast as well. To me longer length lenses concentrate light and shorter focal lengths tend to have a broader range of contrast. Think of a telescope concentrating light. A longer lens is a step in that direction.
Then there are differences in multicoating where Ziess lenses are known to be very contrasty. The point is not all multicoating is the same. Nikon for example continually advanced/changed their multicoating over the decades.
Testing is not easy to do. I used my Monochrom to compare B&W 2X yellow filters against Heliopan 2X yellow filter and found a dramatic difference. I used the same lens, same camera, same exposure, same scene, same lighting, same FOV, and used the histogram and 1% clipping indicators to measure the results.
My results were that the Heliopan filters worked better on my Monochrom by far margin.
Then I compared a Heliopan 2X yellow marked "DIGITAL" against a regular Heliopan 2X yellow. The point here is the only variable was the "Digital" factor between the two filters. I found another vast improvement as indicated by my histogram (no post processing direct out of the camera).
Later I would learn that Heliopan filters marked "DIGITAL" have additional IR and UV filters built in and are specifically made to notch out these bandwiths of light that otherwise would be processed as noise (unwanted signal that deteriorates IQ).
Unfortunately tests that cannot be controled experiments with only a single variable do not really or necessarily present scientific proof. Then there is the uncertainty principle that any experiment one concieves can actually can create a result that can be contradicted. Basically there is no absolute truthes and scientific thought is more like religion or philosophy (a system of beliefs).
Perhaps I have too much education; that's probably why I get confused. LOL. In the end people believe what they want to believe whether truth or lies.
Cal
lawrence
Veteran
Fujica GL690
Fujica GL690
Well the big Fuji arrived a few days ago and it seems to be in working order apart from two things:
The main thing is the lens and lightmeter seem to be fine but I've yet to run a roll of film through it, which will have to wait till the weekend.
Fujica GL690
Well the big Fuji arrived a few days ago and it seems to be in working order apart from two things:
- The rangefinder's out of vertical alignment
- The foam strip around the back door has perished
The main thing is the lens and lightmeter seem to be fine but I've yet to run a roll of film through it, which will have to wait till the weekend.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Well the big Fuji arrived a few days ago and it seems to be in working order apart from two things:
The main thing is the lens and lightmeter seem to be fine but I've yet to run a roll of film through it, which will have to wait till the weekend.
- The rangefinder's out of vertical alignment
- The foam strip around the back door has perished
Lawrence,
Jeremy outlines the proceedure for RF alignment. I took the top plate off my GM670 following Jeremy's pioneering. It is pretty straightforward, but I will add that the switch from single to roll on the back needs to be centered upon reassembly to index the switch correctly. It is a basic straightforward camera that has an impressive commercial build quality to it. Kinda built like a pickup truck.
Your example looks to be in great condition. I assume a later one from around the mid 70's.
The foam seal replacement is very easy to replace. I bought a 1/16 inch thick sheet of foam for a few dollars at a hobby craft store. It featured a double side tape on one side. Basically the hard part is stripping out the old foam. I used alcohol and a small 6 inch straight edge as a tool with alcohol preps I got at work (hospital). The trick here is using fresh wipes as they get gummed up fast.
Best of luck.
Cal
JChrome
Street Worker
You're gonna have some fun
Let us know what you think. I certainly love my GL.I am tempted by the AE more for the multicoated glass than the AE function. I typically find the thing that slows me the most with this camera is the focus, not adjusting the exposure.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ Could the focusing possibly take any longer than on a Kodak Medalist. I ask because as accurate as the Kodaks' focusing tends to be it's rather slow. I'm interested in the older , quieter Fuji 690. Peter
Prest_400
Multiformat
It will be interesting to see that comparison. 6x9 should just practically surpass 35mm.
As of focusing, a couple of days ago there was a video of Kip Praslowicz (sp?) who worked with Fujis and in that one he was quick as lightning.
I am slooooow shooting it, and film cameras in general. That is however because I take my time.
Do have to say that exposure can be fixed after metering if the light isn't changing, or just riding it according on sunny 16 and guesstimation.
It exhibited weir behiavor in the winding on the last roll at the end, but I suppose it was due to the heat and it being banged around my backpack.
If circumstances show against it, I could be crazy enough to bring the 6x9, but it isn't practical to me yet.
As of focusing, a couple of days ago there was a video of Kip Praslowicz (sp?) who worked with Fujis and in that one he was quick as lightning.
I am slooooow shooting it, and film cameras in general. That is however because I take my time.
Do have to say that exposure can be fixed after metering if the light isn't changing, or just riding it according on sunny 16 and guesstimation.
5 months for a Semester in Sweden. I need the additional flexibility and speed of 35mm plus I can use the OM lenses in my EPL with an adapter.
It exhibited weir behiavor in the winding on the last roll at the end, but I suppose it was due to the heat and it being banged around my backpack.
If circumstances show against it, I could be crazy enough to bring the 6x9, but it isn't practical to me yet.