Which Leica to choose after some Bessas and Leicas?

Ko.Fe.

Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
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I'm thinking of replacing two M mount film rangefinders by single Leica.

I have M4-2 which has to go and R2M to follow.
Can't get connected with Bessa. M4-2 ... as RFF member Pioneer mentioned it just an old overobused horsie.

I had Bessa L, R and T before R2M. TTL is handy. I had M4-P and M3.
Newer one was less refined and M3 has no 35mm frames, which is my most and most likely only focal length I'm considering to use.

I would like to have M6 TTL to match M-E controls, but M6 TTL electronics (some of them) are not available anymore as spare parts from Leica.
M6 seems to be not affected, but I might be wrong.

MP, M-A are out of my reach, they are around 4K used.

Yes, M5 is nice, but I like small cameras. One of the reasons I can't get alone with R2M.

So, I'm thinking between M6 and M4. Which one will lasts another ten+ years with available parts and not separating RF optics?
 
I have had an M2, M3, M4, CL and M5. My personal favorite being a button rewind M2. For your purposes however I would recomend the M4 over the M6, as long as you can go without an in camera meter I think the M4 is the best choice available and will last far more than 10 years on available parts.
 
Thank you. Nice to hear from person with experience!
I'm Ok with meterless during day, but once light is more tricky I still measure it.
My Seconic TwinMare shows signs of use as well now.
 
KF, Most reliable is to find one you like & then get the CLA yourself. Sometimes just because someone says it was done....may not be accurate.
 
So, I'm thinking between M6 and M4. Which one will lasts another ten+ years with available parts and not separating RF optics?

I'm new to M cameras so don't have much experience, but it seems like this choice comes down to 2 things.

1- Do you want/need internal light meter?

2- Do you want/need 28mm framelines?
 
Sherry Krauter has an M4 overhauled for $1240.....

I've never had problems with M2 or M4 in decades of using them. I like them better than M6 (had 2 of those) & MP (too many viewfinder outlines)
 
get a leica m6 ttl. they are not dropping like flies, and if you're ok with a meterless camera, it won't be a tragedy if the meter ever fails and you don't have the money to get a parts body. you should be able to remove the meter electronics, battery compartment, and get new frameline masks and leatherette to cover the battery cap. then you end up with very cool custom leica.
 
If you are looking at 10+ years, who will service your old M camera for that long, will DAG or Youxin still be working then? I'd say get the camera you're most comfortable with today and hope for the best. I'm hoping to use my M6 for years but know that there is always a risk with older gear.


-Thomas
 
I've owned a M6 Classic (early one marked Wetzlar), a M6 TTL in black chrome with bubbles and a M6 TTL Millennium, which took a long expensive trip to the factory for some upgrades. I also owned a M2 which was my favorite of all. The M6 finder is prone to blanking out in certain conditions. There are various fixes for it but the best way is to have the MP upgrade. It's also the most expensive. The TTL also benefit from upgraded shutter seals, replacing the old material with a better synthetic Leica uses in the current shutters on the MP and M7. The M6 Classic uses older electronics which simply run the meter. If they die, the flash will still work. The TTL's board run both the meter and the flash. The metering on the TTL's is very good and the center confirmation dot is a bonus over just the arrows on the Classic. If you find a nice TTL for a good price, get it. If you are not bothered by cosmetic condition, the ones with a bubbly finish can be found at a bargain price. Have fun with your search and keep us posted.
 
I think you're fretting too much over this. When it comes to the issue, your choices are what Colton astutely defined: internal meter and 28mm framelines. The optics in the viewfinder and rangefinder are like a shot in the dark, i.e., age won't be a determining factor necessarily. I speak as the owner of an M2 (repainted; needed a new RF), former owner of an M3 (sold it because I like 35mm lenses), an M4, an M4-2 and an M4-P, two M5 bodies and two M6TTL bodies (which are showing problems with the TTL electronics, not the meter). When I think of a camera to shoot on a trip and enjoy the process, I reach out for my M2... or any of my M4 types. Why? They have 35mm framelines, nice, wide viewfinders, and feel like an extension of my hand. From them, only the M4-P has 28mm framelines.

Let's hope this helps...
 
Like many here I have owned a number of Leica M cameras (M6TTL, M2, M3 DS, M3 SS, M4) and the Leica M I use the most is an M3 SS. Because, for these aging eyes, the M3 is the easiest for me to focus accurately. (I use an external finder for 35mm & 28mm lenses).

Best,
-Tim
 
Not surprising it looks thrashed and has some dents on the lever side. For $1400 it should look much better.

You drive a hard bargain Huss. It's not an M4-2. And if black is a requirement...you may not find one much cheaper. It's a 44 yr old used camera.
 
Having owned every Leica made (not counting rare models) I second the M4. get the M4-R meter which works exceedingly well and don't look back. for the last few years (decade?) I've used an M4 bought used and an M7 bought new. I love the M7 meter and AE mode but like the view finder and overall feel of the M4 more.


As an aside, I bought the M6 when it first came out, trading a very well used M4, and ended up hating so much I got rid of it in 6 months. Shortest owned model of any Leica I've ever owned.
 
I'll vote for the M6 classic Kostya. I've owned M2, M3, M4-P and now M6. My M6 is the sweetest and fastest to operate of all the Leicas I've owned. It's quick to load and unload and quick to meter. Yes, the RF patch sometimes flares, but I only have to move my eye a little to clear it. Yes, the framelines are not perfectly accurate, but I only have to move my brain a little to visualise the end result. I got it for a less expensive price than usual because someone had partially blocked out the script on front and the red dot. That is now fully blacked. So mine is a stealth model. Shown with other stealthy black camera I have.
U51008I1542329844.SEQ.0.jpg

John Mc
 
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